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 Post subject: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Feb Wed 29, 2012 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 227
Location: Rothschild, Wisconsin
Just wondering what the group thinks of a Philco 37-660. One is available locally and really don't need another floor model but have run out of projects. Chassy and cab and cloth look to be in pretty good shape. Asking a C note, a bit high?


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Feb Wed 29, 2012 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Jul Sun 08, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 3024
Location: Muscletown, USA
Quote:
Asking a C note, a bit high?


It's only money. Things like good cloth are getting to be valuable. Good cabinet is nice, too. Get it.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Thu 01, 2012 7:42 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3407
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
RUN and pay it. $100 for a 37-660 is a STEAL. That is an upper end Philco in 1937 (the line starts with 37-610 and runs up to 37-670 that year). Restoration is not super easy, as it has Bakelite Block caps but at least do the electrolytics and the important caps if not all. Some low voltage bypass caps you can ignore if you tire of recapping. Use the "Goller Method" on the caps... heat them IN the chassis, dont unsolder. Run a drill thru the rivets to break only the wires, then heat and push out the cap, loosen and rotate to remove old cap and insert new caps.

Mark Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Thu 01, 2012 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Sep Thu 14, 2006 3:27 pm
Posts: 5836
Location: Carmel, Indiana
I'd say $100 for a 37-660 in good condition is a very reasonable price for one of Philco's upper models. The console version is housed in one of Philco's more stylish and impressive cabinets.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/philco_37_660.html

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Thu 01, 2012 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Feb Wed 25, 2009 4:06 pm
Posts: 1007
Location: Morristown, N.J.
The 37-660 is a fantastic performer- go for it! If you do DXing, this one is hard to beat.

Pete


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 1:10 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 227
Location: Rothschild, Wisconsin
Picked it up this afternoon. Looks to be a "fun" project. Paid $80.
http://wausau.craigslist.org/atq/2846548728.html


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 3:27 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3407
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
You stole that ! Take your time... do a great job on it. DO NOT try to clean the dial or you will be getting a repro from me, the numbers will wipe right off. Also, do not run it without recapping, at least the filter caps, the audio coupling cap and several high voltage bypass caps. Also, the tuning vernier will need to be cleaned with solvent and relubed. Disassemble it over a towel so you do not loose any ball bearings. If it operates "choppy" then polish the vernier shaft where the balls race. I have also found ball bearings in those with small flat spots worn, I have replacements. Hard to believe that all ball bearings are not hardened steel but apparently not. I use white grease in those. They are fantastic tuners.

Mark Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 4:03 am 
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Joined: Sep Wed 26, 2007 4:48 am
Posts: 311
Location: Austin, Texas
I picked up a 37-660 last month too! Surprisingly this set looks to be 100% original underneath, no signs of servicing, all the original lytics are still wired and not bypassed as seen in older repairs. Was there any cloth in the bandswitch lever? The lever goes around part of the dial and I'm afraid it might scratch the dial. Also, is this a solid wood cabinet as opposed to a veneered cabinet? This cabinet seems heavier than other console cabinets from this era.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 227
Location: Rothschild, Wisconsin
This particular radio has also never been serviced, all original parts (except tubes). It is apparant that sections of the radio will need to be dissasembled to reach caps etc. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best area to start? Any hints or problem areas for removal?

Mark, I have beautiful 38-9 that has the same type of tuning as the 37-660.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Jul Wed 06, 2011 1:33 am
Posts: 492
Location: Northern Illinois
Just picking up on Mark's point above, with care, the rotating dial can be cleaned up with mineral spirits, but touch it with even a trace of water, even for a second, and the lettering comes right off. The repro. dials are excellent but always a shame to spoil an original for the sake of a bit of cleaning. Found out the hard way :(

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Fri 02, 2012 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Feb Fri 05, 2010 6:14 am
Posts: 1120
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
>tesla, if that bandswitch is one of those Philco deals that makes a U-turn around
the edge of the dial, it likely had flocking (like turntable flocking) on the inside of the
turn. A big-daddy Philco here was like that, with additional flocking on the upper
dial guides. I have a flocking kit here from Lee Valley Tools, and it worked like a whiz.
It's good for restoring retro turntables too. :lol:
Nelson

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Sat 03, 2012 3:27 am 
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Joined: Jun Wed 14, 2006 11:49 pm
Posts: 5393
Location: Leo, IN or Zellwood, FL
marv wrote:
This particular radio has also never been serviced, all original parts (except tubes). It is apparant that sections of the radio will need to be dissasembled to reach caps etc. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best area to start? Any hints or problem areas for removal?

Mark, I have beautiful 38-9 that has the same type of tuning as the 37-660.


This is a 37-116 chassis but the dis assembly and reassembly is the same arrangement. Take a couple pictures of where
the wires go through which slot in the sides of center before you tear it apart. No need to cut any wires other than if it has
wires to the dial assembly like the 37-116 does... if so yes those to the disable switch while in teledial push mode you
need to cut those and take the dial off the radio. Just don't loose a small spring part at the rear of the long volume control
shaft.
John k9uwa
Image
Image

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Sat 03, 2012 6:36 am 
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Joined: Feb Tue 24, 2009 8:20 am
Posts: 8011
Location: Aurora Colorado
WOW, the leaning tower of chassis.... :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Sat 03, 2012 8:37 am 
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Joined: Feb Fri 05, 2010 6:14 am
Posts: 1120
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
FWIW... I followed John's method to recap a 38-116 here, and I can say
it's not as bad a job as it looks, and it's about the only way to go about
it.
Never said it before, but Thanks John, for sharing that on the web.
Nelson

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Sat 03, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 227
Location: Rothschild, Wisconsin
Thanks. I'm currently in the process of identifining/locating all of the parts (caps/resistors) so as to get my parts order out.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Mon 05, 2012 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Oct Fri 28, 2011 7:27 pm
Posts: 91
Location: New York, NY
If you don't feel like doing Chassis Jinga, it really isn't *that* hard to desolder the leads between the chassis units. I've got to believe having the tuner chassis separated makes it much easier to approach some of those buried components from different angles more easily. I did a 37-630, and all said there were maybe 13 leads plus one or two caps (that you want to replace anyway) connecting the units. Just made little number labels with my p-touch and it went fast. Plus, I found that about half of the original wires were pretty crispy and really needed to be replaced, which would require desoldering those them anyway... YMMV though.

++1 to Mark's comment about NOT cleaning the dial. I thought I would use some light soap to clean off the grime, and the markings wiped off like a dry-erase board. Though replacing it with one of Mark's reproductions isn't the worst thing that could happen -- I bought one of them and it looks really great!

Good luck -- and keep posting pics with the progress!


Last edited by FrankieKat on Mar Wed 07, 2012 4:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Mon 05, 2012 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 227
Location: Rothschild, Wisconsin
Last evening I in fact removed the RF section. There were about 13 leads to desolder. There are 4 caps stuffed inside the tuning section that are not the easiest to get at. Three of them I think are not too much of a problem but one is buried deep in the middle. This is going to be difficult to get a soldering iron in there. Once I remove the lytic can in that spot I hope I have more room.

Also there a 3 resistors soldered directly on the waffer switch(s) that are in-accesable. I cannot even get to them to see how far out of tolerance they may be. Anyone else deal with these?

marv


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Tue 06, 2012 2:45 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3407
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
Philco resistors seem to hold up fairly well, except the big white 9K B+ resistor found in many models,
but that resistor is easy to access over by the power tranny.

Mark Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Tue 06, 2012 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Jan Wed 26, 2011 5:42 am
Posts: 515
Location: Clayton, NC
I just completed a 37-660 tombstone. Yes, the RF deck is tough but you must remove it to replace four .05 caps and the cap can that has a 1, 2, and 3 mFd cap in it. The resistors in mine were all pretty close except for two of the higher wattage ones under the two 8mFd cap cans. I replaced these with 5W resistors.

The two .003mFd caps that are physically attached to the ground end of the AC filter bakelite block cap are rated at 1000 volts. Make sure that you replace them with a similar-rated cap.

Because the chassis of the 37-660 is so shallow re-stuffing the bakelite block caps is the best way to re-cap this set, although I suppose that removing the bakelite blocks and replacing them with terminal strips would also work. In this case I chose to re-stuff. Since I do not have a heat gun, I just keep an old pot with water simmering on the stove and just drop them in for a few minutes.
No, you don't want to cook food in this pot after cooking capacitors in it....


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 37-660
PostPosted: Mar Wed 07, 2012 12:49 am 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3407
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
TA Forbes wrote:
I just completed a 37-660 tombstone. Yes, the RF deck is tough but you must remove it to replace four .05 caps and the cap can that has a 1, 2, and 3 mFd cap in it. The resistors in mine were all pretty close except for two of the higher wattage ones under the two 8mFd cap cans. I replaced these with 5W resistors.

The two .003mFd caps that are physically attached to the ground end of the AC filter bakelite block cap are rated at 1000 volts. Make sure that you replace them with a similar-rated cap.

Because the chassis of the 37-660 is so shallow re-stuffing the bakelite block caps is the best way to re-cap this set, although I suppose that removing the bakelite blocks and replacing them with terminal strips would also work. In this case I chose to re-stuff. Since I do not have a heat gun, I just keep an old pot with water simmering on the stove and just drop them in for a few minutes.
No, you don't want to cook food in this pot after cooking capacitors in it....


The 1000 v rating is not needed today. Reason they did that back them was that very high spikes of signal could punch a hole and short out the old paper caps. Today's metallized mylars are self-healing so if that happens, no permanent short occurs. If you are still concerned, 1000v and up rated disc caps are available but in no case should you be seeking out 1000v mylars.

As to the Bakelite Blocks, I like the "Goller Method". You run a drill bit thru the rivets to break the wires. Then, heat the cap on two sides with a heat gun... in the chassis. You then turn the drill bit around and start to push out the old cap. You loosen the nut and turn the cap to finish extracting it. You then insert your new caps (and sometimes, resistor) and turn it around and remount. Solder your cap leads and you are done. You dont ever have to remove any wires. This is the easiest way to go, and can be done on 80% of caps.

Mark Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net


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