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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Dec Thu 28, 2017 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Jul Fri 14, 2017 12:43 am
Posts: 23
Location: Spokane Valley, WA 99212
Larry is a miracle worker! He's restored many radios for me, including another basket case 12S267 that has a prominent place in my living room. It's good to see this one in such good hands!


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Dec Sat 30, 2017 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
Thanks Mike! Found a little more time this week, my focus turned to the chassis. I removed the robot dial, the tuning gang, tube shields and tubes. I then taped over the tube sockets, removed the tone switch so I could shove the wires underneath the chassis and closed all of the trimmers. I then stuck the chassis in my glass bead blaster and got rid of all the rust. I also bead blasted the tube shields. The chassis and shields with the rust removed got a coat of hammered copper.


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Tue 02, 2018 12:15 am 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
More progress on the Zenith.


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Larry in NC
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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Tue 02, 2018 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3424
Location: Central VA, 23005
Larry:

Great looking so far...

BR,

Terry


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Wed 03, 2018 1:49 am 
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Joined: Nov Fri 10, 2017 4:42 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Western, Kentucky
Sure gonna miss that rust :lol: Just kidding....the chassis is looks great. The glass bead blaster sure beats using naval jelly.

...by the time your done with it my wife will be trying to take it from me 8)
She was originally against me spending money on it, now she is slowing changing her mind.


Nice progress, looking good Larry


Kidd


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Wed 03, 2018 1:55 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 618
Location: Crossville, TN USA
Beautiful restoration to date. This is a really nice Zenith.

Can hardly wait for the final product.

Joe


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Wed 03, 2018 3:00 am 
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Joined: Feb Tue 02, 2016 2:38 am
Posts: 140
Location: Saint Paul, Minn
All I can say is it looks like LarryAD has 3 things going for him. He has the proper tools, a LOT of patience, and is extremely talented. I would have gone with the others and used it for a parts machine. I don't have any woodworking skills, and looking at the chassis in the "before" pictures made me not want to even touch it. I can't get over how much improvement has been done so far.
Very nice work! I'll be watching as well on this project.

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Wed 03, 2018 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sun 18, 2009 1:40 am
Posts: 2868
Location: Lexington, KY
Absolutely beautiful work Larry!

What did you have to do to that dial? On the Foreign band it looked like there was a chunk of paint missing.

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Last edited by Eliot Ness on Jan Tue 09, 2018 12:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 07, 2018 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
I had a donor chassis for the dials. Been a little under the weather the last few days and so cold I didn't want to walk the 50 feet to the shop. I have a couple of hours left on a cash register restoration and then back to Zenith resto! Stay tuned!

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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Fri 12, 2018 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
Grain filler applied to the new walnut veneer, let it sit for 24 hours and then sand off with 220 grit a little more attention to the two new pieces of molding on the base and then on to applying stain and dye to the cabinet.


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sat 13, 2018 9:38 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 2693
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
That is an amazing slather of grain filler. With the stuff I use you wouldn't want to do it as once set it is tougher than the grit paper and clogs it something awful.

Is that the plaster of Paris trick again?

thanks Gary


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sat 13, 2018 10:43 pm 
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Joined: Sep Sun 02, 2012 4:02 pm
Posts: 24
This is amazing work and patience Larry! Thanks so much for showing us the steps for future reference.....I have some small touch-up on 3 consoles and one basket case Philco I can use this info with!


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 2:25 am 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
It is the old fashion joint compound, works very well, if there is a short fall with using has to be the dust cloud while sanding with 220 grit. I have used many other fillers but always come back to the joint compound!

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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 2:40 am 
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Joined: Nov Fri 10, 2017 4:42 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Western, Kentucky
Coming together nicely.

Even in its tore down state it still looks better than it did when I shipped it to Larry :D



Kidd


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 3:07 am 
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Joined: Jul Tue 15, 2008 6:13 pm
Posts: 4824
Location: Gretna, Nebraska
LarryAD wrote:
It is the old fashion joint compound, works very well, if there is a short fall with using has to be the dust cloud while sanding with 220 grit. I have used many other fillers but always come back to the joint compound!


Joint compound, as in for drywall?

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Paul
...... how hard can it be?


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 3:15 am 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
Yes sir, as used for patching drywall.

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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 3:21 am 
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Joined: Jul Tue 15, 2008 6:13 pm
Posts: 4824
Location: Gretna, Nebraska
Seems like that would take stain well. Is that the case?
Its pretty light colored in its natural state.

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...... how hard can it be?


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Joined: May Fri 10, 2013 4:09 am
Posts: 1161
Location: Dallas Tx
I'm not trying to tell you what to do but how come you don't sand entire cabinet with 240 and then grain fill all of it unless you haven't got to that point yet? That's want I would have done, if you sand with dual action sander using 240 and grain fill entire cabinet u would get better results in the long run. The pores in the veneer that you stripped are opened up a lot more than the new walnut that you put on the sides. I have used joint compound for grain filling and works very well and is inexpensive, I'm using timber mate grain filler and believe it or not it smells about the same and sands just as well as joint compound. As long as you sand the surface first and most important that you blow all the dust out of the pores before you apply your grain filler. Your sand blasted chassis could have been done better if you filled in the pitting from the rust, using and automotive polyester filler to smooth out the damage from rust, then primer sufacer sanded smooth would have given that chassis a perfect surface to paint your hammered zenith copper paint. Please take this as constructive criticism.


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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Jul Tue 15, 2008 6:13 pm
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Location: Gretna, Nebraska
Back to the use of drywall mud for grain filler, can or should it be tinted prior to application?

I prefer the look of dark filler in the wood pores, and am unclear what the best way to darken it would be, pre or post application.

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 Post subject: Re: 12S267
PostPosted: Jan Sun 14, 2018 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Jul Sun 26, 2015 11:34 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Hurdle Mills, North Carolina
Fred it the old veneer needs grain filler I apply it, since I strip by hand and only a small section at a time it pulls very little if any of the grain filler out. In cases where I don't need new veneer I seldom find the cabinet needing grain filler.

Regarding the joint compound, I use oil based Min-wax to stain the grain filler after I have sanded the excess away. I find walnut and early american give the best results.

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