Last week, I bought a de-soldering tool at Harbor Freight. Similar to this, but blue plastic.



Very handy for "de-populating" printed circuit boards. No more burned fingers. I was even able to remove IF transformers and DIP sockets using the forked end.

The HF version has a black oxide finish so it won't allow solder to stick and costs only $1.99.

Rich

where did you get this?

Lol, re-read his first sentence.

Harbor Freight Tools

Item # 99744

http://www.harborfreight.com/pry-fork-a ... 99744.html
Rich

I've seen these tools for 40 years, and held/tried a few - bet I have a few around here somewhere too. I think mine have a small wire brush on one end, and the tool on the other. But I gotta' tell ya, I have never been able to really make these things work to my benefit, and they just get tossed aside. Am I just not manipulating these things correctly? Is there some sort of trick to make them shine as a go-to tool?

For working at molten solder joint issues or similar, I may be more apt to grab this tool I acquired some 25+ years ago - General Tools, fixed two point scribe, or sometimes referred to as the #80 scribe:



I don't know what metal is used in these things, but it's so strong that you'll never bend or break a tip, no matter how bad you mistreat it, and the tips stay sharp as new, forever. And they're just handy for tons of things we do with radio rebuilding, from electrical to woodwork. I believe any one of us would say something like "how did I ever live without one of these things before?!" Google the term and you'll find 'em for around $5.

I bought one of those General scribes in 1967 (oops, showing my age) when I worked at General Dynamics. It's just as good now as it was then. It has been one of the handiest tools I have and I use it regularly when working on radios.
Randy James

Recently went to buy another of those General Tool scribes and guess what? They are now made in China, the finish is rough and the tip broke. Wound up returning back to the place.

Oh, I have one of these. Just never thought to use it as a desoldering tool. I also have some nice braid that could clean up after.

I have one, but never use it. My solder sucker works just fine, lol.



Five bucks at All Electronics.

I would bet that what you got was a Chinese knockoff - Illegal design copy and trademark usage, using cheap crap materials. They only do that with everything - dang! I noticed that when I Googled for the image that a bunch of those did have distinct changes in the handle, looking cheap. Real ones have a General Tools trade mark stamped into that center piece of the grip, along with the text "No. 80". Almost seems like you may need to spend more closer to the $10 offerings in order to get a real one. Perhaps all the $4 ones are knockoffs?

[For quote="Nortonics"]

I would bet that what you got was a Chinese knockoff - Illegal design copy and trademark usage, using cheap crap materials. They only do that with everything - dang ! I noticed that when I Googled for the image that a bunch of those did have distinct changes in the handle, looking cheap. Real ones have a General Tools trade mark stamped into that center piece of the grip, along with the text "No. 80". Almost seems like you may need to spend more closer to the $10 offerings in order to get a real one. Perhaps all the $4 ones are knockoffs?[/quote]
Nope... General branded card. On display rack at OSH checked a couple of other stores and all General branded tools they had are now imported.

And you're right. They probably paid a buck and a half for it.

The stainless steel tool which Radio Daze sells is quite handy. It has one pointed end and one forked end.

As for solder removal, desoldering wick works best for me.

After reading this post I went to Harbor Freight to check out this tool. I found that they had 4 different types so I bought all four. Now I will have to try them out.

David,

Let us know how they all work for you.

You may have to take apart a few circuit boards or leftover junker chassis'.


Chuck

For Tube Radio work, I use my Solder Sucker and a pick to unravel the leads off a terminal lug. Also, Tooth Picks come in handy to tunnel a hole to insert a lead on a terminal.

You guys have any other techniques?

Carl

I should clarify my original post.

This tool is for de-soldering components, not for removing solder. I use the solder sucker and/or wick for that.

If you ever tried to remove a 5 pin miniature IF transformer from a circuit board, you will appreciate this tool. It allows you to get under a component and give it some vertical lifting force while you apply heat from the soldering iron. I think the angle of the forked part, not exactly 90 degrees, is a real advantage in "de-populating" a circuit board. You can easily get under leads of resistors and capacitors to gently lift them as you heat from the other side.

Rich

I use a tool I made by fastening a straight needle to an alligator clip. Each side is handy for a variety of purposes.

What you have is an ordinary soldering aid. They were around before pc boards existed and were used to clean terminals, unwrap leads, make holes for leads, and anything else that was handy to do with a tool solder didn't stick to.

RRM

Go have some Shish Kabob tonight. The wood sticks they come on are much better then toothpicks. Much longer and don,t brake as easy
Stan Ski