Sure were. My thoughts would be to freeze the darned things and then "gently" drop the cabinet onto its face. Hopefully, the mass of the woofers would carry them out of the chilled epoxy and the cabinet would remain intact. In fact, it is quite possible, maybe even probable, that just the re-sizing of the speaker frame would pull them from the epoxy's grip. I use that method to remove freshly-faceted gemstones from "dop" sticks on a regular basis. Traditional epoxies fair quite poorly when cold and especially if components re-size at the same time.
The trick is finding some kind soul with access to a walk-in freezer. I guess you could pull any food out of that old beer fridge in the garage.

I have compressed liquid nitrogen at work which I could hit the speaker edge with,
It's pretty cold,
I may try and remove the entire back, Looks to also be glued in.
Peter

My dad had a speaker repaired years ago which required that the entire back panel be cut outwith a sabre saw, then glued back into place. The cut was done a couple of inches in from the periphery, all the way around. Repair was successful. Looks ugly from the back now, but works fine.

-David

Zone improvement codes began July 1, 1963. Stereo wasn't around until ’57 for tape and ’58 for records.

Billboard Magazine has an article about the KLH model 6 intro on page 12 of an October 20, 1958 issue so they are a little older than I originally thought. They cost from $119 to $124 depending on the finish. That would equate to nearly $1000 in 2012. I assume that was for a pair.

http://books.google.com/books?id=4AoEAA ... 06&f=false

It was fun just reading that issue to recall what I was listening to on the radio (WEBC) at that time. I still have most of that music and listen to it occasionally. This was just before The Big Bopper and Richie Valens' plane went down on their way to a concert and I remember all the girls in my class wearing black armbands to school the day after the crash.

At that time the price listed was for each.

You got 2 options: One is to grind the heads off the nails holding the connector board on the back and lifting the plate off, you'll see yellow hardened epoxy that you will have to chip out. From there you can get to the pink fiberglass batting, crossover and wiring. Seal up with caulk and position slightly off center so you can drive new brass finish nails or small wood screws to seal. Option 2 is a little drastic but preserves the integrity of the speaker box. depending on what serial number you have (pre 19000 are epoxied, post 19000 are screwed in woofers and replaceable screens) You need to unscrew the KLH emblem if it is on a wood screw, otherwise it was a stick on plate. remove screens or cut screens on older ones (youll end up replacing these with $3.00 a yard burlap from the fabric store as they no longer sell 18 count irish linen unless you order it online, dye the white burlap in tea if it doesnt look correct). Screw in woofers can now be taken out. Early epoxied speaker panels will need to be either pounded out from the back hole of the crossover plate or cut out with a jig saw. You'll end up reproducing the speaker mount board from particle board (EZ, cut a rectangle and 2 holes!) >>If you pound it out, set the speaker face down on something smooth and hard, like a towel on a concrete garage floor. Use a 2X2 or something hard as a drift and put it right on the edge of the speaker board just inside of the 1" frame <<<NOT THE SIDE OF THE CABINET>>>...you want to force the speaker panel off the frame, not the frame off the cabinet. a few hits and you should see it start to seperate, (mine were held in by a diagonal drive nail and glue) move to the other side and hit it some more. move to the tweeter end and hit a few. You wont be able to get to the woofer end so youll have to prop the cabinet on something so the speaker panel can get forced past the finished edge of the cabinet. You should be able to get the panel out now. The speaker mesh is captured between the speaker panel and the frame so you can replace with the same technique. With the speaker panel out you can do any repairs. If you dont want to go this route you can always cut the bottoms out with a jig saw. Set blade to an angle so you can cut it like a pumpkin top. That way you can just glue it back on with some caulk without it falling into the cabinet. Place some little rubber feet at the extreme corners and no one will ever notice they were broken into. Im waiting for a replacement woofer in the mail as I write this and will be replacing it with one of the 2 woofer access options. Will try the speaker panel removal first as this is how the factory did at least one from another board as witness to slight prybar scars on the cabinet lip. Someone mentioned a series of holes along the perimeter and lag bolts acting as jackscrews through a 4X4 across the lip as a pulling frame, or even a slide hammer on the bolts, then plugging the holes. Are they worth it? Yes...yes they are.