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 Post subject: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 12:03 am 
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For what reason would a ceramic cap be used instead of a paper cap assuming same value was available? Can ceramic caps be replaced with our usual generic replacements (orange drops, yellow etc.)?
thanks,
Sandy


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 1:11 am 
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Depends greatly on the era and application. When ceramic discs first came out they were more expensive than a paper cap. That only held true for a year or two and the ceramics took over quickly for bypassing applications.
Our 'yellowcaps' could easily replace ceramics on older radios but the ceramics aren't typically bad to start with! I'd prefer to stay with a ceramic rather than working backwards to a 'rolled' cap that might add undesired inductance to a circuit.

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 1:40 am 
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99% does not matter. RF and close dress are exceptions. Proceed with caution.


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 2:10 pm 
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Ceramics, like micas, are at their best in situations where stability and low loss are the primary considerations. That typically means the RF range, and the higher in that range you go, the more important stability and low loss become.

:wink: Larry

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Discs take up a lot less room and provide a clean look compared to paper or those ugly orange excrement droppings :lol:

Carl


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 7:18 pm 
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Although ceramic are good for bypass most shouldn't be used where values are critical. Try measuring a .1 mf ceramic cap while heating it. I found at first the value increases and then greatly decreases to around .01 mf using a heat gun or soldering iron.

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 7:25 pm 
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This all makes sense. What about the tubular appearing ones? Some I've seen about 7/16" diameter maybe 1 1/2" long.
thanks,
Sandy


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: May Thu 31, 2012 7:40 pm 
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Tubular ceramic caps, you mean?

They were the original style, if memory serves. Temperature-compensating caps were built in tubular style for years. I don't know if they dramatically change value (or get ruined) if they get too hot during soldering, but I expect they would, since most other parts are adversely affected by excessive heat.

Some tubular ceramics resemble the notorious "bumblebee" paper caps with axial leads; most, especially the smallest, have radial leads like dogbone resistors.

:wink: Larry

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Fri 01, 2012 12:26 am 
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7/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long and tubular in shape are probably metalized paper or film inside. The ceramic tube is only a shell or casing; it plays no part in the operation of the capacitor. 1960s television sets were often full of them. The ceramic tubes were claimed to be more moisture and heat resistant, and more flameproof than plastic or cardboard dipped in wax. They also exploded with a real vengence when something went wrong with them!

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Fri 01, 2012 2:24 am 
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Quote:
Although ceramic are good for bypass most shouldn't be used where values are critical. Try measuring a .1 mf ceramic cap while heating it. I found at first the value increases and then greatly decreases to around .01 mf using a heat gun or soldering iron.


That all depends upon the class of construction but for tube radios a .05 is about the limit Id use, after that a film is better and often still cheaper.

Discs are not designed to be run with a heat source on them anyway, its an interesting example of a rather meaningless experiment unless a circuit is being designed that will require attention to that detail. OTOH those caps do have frequency and current ratings that should not be exceeded.....no worry in a tube radio but critical in transmitters and amplifiers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic_capacitor

Carl


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Fri 01, 2012 6:08 am 
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Norm Leal wrote:
Although ceramic are good for bypass most shouldn't be used where values are critical. Try measuring a .1 mf ceramic cap while heating it. I found at first the value increases and then greatly decreases to around .01 mf using a heat gun or soldering iron.



That's a bit misleading. It really depends on the dielectric.
There is a big difference between a Z5U dielectric, used in larger
values, vs. the NP0 dielectrics in smaller value caps for use in tuned
circuits.

Pete

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Fri 01, 2012 7:18 am 
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Hi Sandy, I'm sure we have crossed paths at some local ham swaps, most recent....Maple Ridge?? Anyways... Ceramics do have their place. Tubular ceramics look about the size of a macaroni noodle, are hollow, and have dot coding on them. Those are used in VFO's or oscillators and have have temperature coefficients IE: 100pF N95 and so on. These should never be changed as they are chosen to carefully follow the warmup and dynamic temperature of the VFO or oscillator they are in. Changing these will cause irratic drift characteristics. The tubular ones you mention, that have an epoxy sealed end, are horribily leaky, just like waxies or bumble-bees. They are a paper cap inside, and the paper has long since gone acidic. Disc ceramic are all over the map with temperature, unless they are NPO style. General ceramic discs are good for RF bypass and passing signals in an area that doesn't require a great deal of capacitance accuracy. If you would like some pix's I would be happy to show you some examples of the above.


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Fri 01, 2012 10:33 pm 
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Hollow tubular ceramics are not all temperature compensating, the color code has to be interpeted. I have many NOS tubulars here from a generic 10% to N-1500 and find the non-TC type in many 50's era equipment.

Carl


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Sun 03, 2012 11:33 am 
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Burnt Fingers wrote:
[ its an interesting example of a rather meaningless experiment


Leigh Bassett incarnate.........


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Mon 04, 2012 1:10 am 
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I'm relatively new at this and I think what Norm said makes perfect sense--heat can affect capacitance. Nothing meaningless there.


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Mon 04, 2012 1:49 am 
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Burnt Fingers wrote:
... orange excrement droppings :lol:
Carl


:lol: :lol:

Wasn't Sprague based somewhere in New England ?

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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Mon 04, 2012 3:04 am 
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North Adams, MA and later in VT where the new owners concentrate on custom values and have the run of the mill stuff made in China.


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Mon 04, 2012 4:01 am 
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm glad I didn't ask this a couple of years ago. Ignorance can be bliss. I've definitely reached the point now though where "just re-cap it" doesn't do it for me anymore.
regards,
Sandy


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Tue 05, 2012 7:42 pm 
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I never use ceramic capacitors unless I know their pedigree. NPO and XR7 dielectrics are pretty temperature stable, and the XR7 comes in larger values. There are a lot of cheap ceramic caps that have come in or are coming in from Asia, and they should be avoided like the plague. Tube radios get plenty hot, so if the sound quality changes during the turn on cycle a cheap ceramic might be changing value.


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 Post subject: Re: Paper or ceramic cap. Why?
PostPosted: Jun Tue 05, 2012 7:47 pm 
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Quote:
There are a lot of cheap ceramic caps that have come in or are coming in from Asia, and they should be avoided like the plague....


Yet another invasion of cheap parts from that part of the world? Devil knows where or how this will end.

:? Larry

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