I have been looking for one of these for quite a while with no luck -- Does anyone have a source for this or know if there is a substitue or if I can replecate it ? I believe this is a ballast tube -- Any help would be great -- thanks in advance

Griz

See if it on this listhttp://www.vacuumtubesinc.com/Products/BallastTubesDelayRelays/BallastTubes.aspx

Do you have a link to the schematic or radio model? There are universal ballasts at AES that may be adapted, if yours is octal base.
Don

Griz

55B2 drops 55 volts @ 300ma. It has a resistive element between pin #4 and #8 with tap on pin #1.

Could be replaced by wire wound resistors or other method, below.

http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-res ... calcs.html

Here is a list of available ballast tubes:

http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a2fl.txt

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=128740

This is a link to a thread that someone else had started where I had posted a comment to a similar situation with regard to this radio -- I still have not been able to either identify the model or find a schematic.

The only clue to the tube is a hadwitten list on the bottom of the radio -- I have all the others but not the 55B2
Thanks for the article but what I don't know is enough info about what the tap does and what it's drop should be --

I asked if the 55A2 was a legitimate sup and I got this from Jim at Vacuum Tubes Inc :

Unfortunately they do not sub for each other. It appears the difference is in how much ballasting action is applied to the dial lamp(s)

The "standard" number for the 55B2 is KY55C.

The Amperite universal replacement is a type 50AB. It looks like Playthings of the Past in Cleveland, OH has a few of the 50AB's. Their website is: www.oldradioparts.com

Is there any reason to assume this is not correct ? If all is well with this at least I have a couple more options now.

Griz

Griz

Here is the radio that used 55B2:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByMode ... 017691.pdf

You could make other 55 volt ballasts operate. In some cases socket wiring will need changing.

Here is an answer from an old post. You can use a T-URB-009-BT from AES. Your socket should have the pilot wired to pins 7 & 8 and another wire from pin 8 going to the 25Z5 heater. The line voltage comes in to pin 3. Just add a jumper from pin 1 to 2 to complete the circuit.
Pins 7&8 are a 22 ohm section which goes across the pilot lamp.
EDIT: This will work with a #47 pilot lamp.
Don

Great information -- thanks to all -- any more inputs are still welcome