I spent a little time on the selector switch yesterday. I found that the unit could be dropped away from the chassis a little more by removing the plate above it that holds the 7H8 socket and some other hold downs. I think this is where I'm going to draw the line though because there are a lot of connections there and some are delicate.

What I'll be doing next is cleaning the selector contacts. It's going to take some time to do it right since there are a lot of sections. Now that I've been able to look in there with a magnifier and light I can see a lot of buildup on some of the contacts. To keep the switch's weight from pulling any of the leads loose I'm going to secure it to the chassis with wire to limit its travel.

I got called in to work this afternoon, which is supposed to be my day off, so I'll post some pics later. I hate when they do that

Thanks to vts1134 and banderson I've identified some missing parts. This chassis is very similar to the GE 801 and 802 which have a shield around the HV. The photos of the sheild were taken from banderson's flicker stream on this model and I checked my chassis and there were screw holes and a shadow on the chassis where it was. I'm wondering about that front shield now. I should be able to reproduce this easily.

Banderson also sent me a link to the reproduction back for an 801-802 from Retro-Tronics, which I think is identical to the SW set. I've requested exact diminsions to make sure it fits. vts1134 sent detailed pics of his 801 back and so I'll be able to reproduce the lettering on the controls. Thanks guys!

The original back that was once with my GE 802 was much larger.
It went from top to bottom of cabinet, covering even speaker compartment.
The back had a bracket with the special 3 prong plug to plug into chassis. I belive all three prongs were hot. I thik was was for 115volt, and, antoher way was for 230 volt.
Bill Cahill

The one from Retro Tronics is for an 803, a smaller set than the 801 and 802 but might have the same sized back. Worst case senario, I'll have them cut a custom one if it's not too pricey. Or if I get desperate (and cheap) I'll make my own.

It can't. The 803 is a table model. The other two are consoles. I know for a fact the 802 had a very large back.
Bill Cahill

He means the top portion is possibly the same. Here's an 802 back.
If the 803 back could be used for the top, perhaps a separate piece of masonite could be used for the lower portion.

INteresting. Yours is obviously original, but, mine went to bottom of cabinet, didn't have an manny vent holes, and, Had a big sighn plastered on that read Only use genuine General Elecric receiving tubes.
Alot different from yours. I think I like yours better.
Easier to nandle than mine was.
MIne was almost as big as I was!
Too big, says I.
My back got lost in the shuffle of moving out of Michigan. Darned it!
But, somewhere around here, I think I still have plug....
I traded set years ago due to a severely dammaged selector switch that was causing trouble. In radio, after total rebuilding, radio played great.
Switch to tv, and, POP!m and B+ would crash to 100 volts, and, smoke would quickly follow.
It was definately the switch. There was a char streak all abound at least one wafer.
Just got tired of that set.
I kind of wish I had it back. Now, I have got some ideas how to fix it.
Bill Cahill

Mine only has screw holes on the top section and the bottom is open--no back. I'm assuming it would be the same as the 803. You can see from the pic that the controls would be recessed but the power would be flush with the back. Then again the chassis looks like it's too far forward. I'll have to check when I get home.

Another thing, I can't find the phono input on the schematic. The wires coming out the back of the chassis lead to the phono so it looks like I'll have to do some detective work. No mention of the phono in the service manual either.

vts1134 sent me these pics he recieved from another ARF member--who's name escapes him. It's another of these sets but without the phono.

There's also the mystery chain in the far left lower corner of the chassis section. Mine has that too. Must have made it so the back stays nearby? It did't work if that's the case. This one doesn't have the HV shield either. Now I'm wondering if mine really did. I wish there was a few more of these around to compare notes with.

Here's what I've been doing with the 36"x36" schematic while I wait for customers at work. Using the parts list I marked the paper caps pink, the micas purple and the ceramics blue. The electrolytics are also coded. It helps me get familiar with things and as I replace the papers and electrolytics I highlight them with green. Micas only if needed and ceramics I won't touch. Resistors will get marked with green if replacement is needed. I don't think I'm going to restuff. I might even mount the electrolytics underside on strips. Easier to service if need be.

It's interesting looking at the circuits this way. I can see at a glance the cap layout for each section. Since I have a lot of time at work I'm hitting my Basics of Television Servicing book, taking a section at a time. Then I can look at a real world schematic and apply my new knowledge to this set. Some of its bound to stick in my brain, right?

Hey Ben, just took note of your new Stewart Warner TRC 721 Restoration.

Nice looking TV. Never seen one like that.

Carl

It is a distinctive set. I can't find much on these. I'm wondering how many were in production--let alone how many survived. I'm chomping on the bit to get this on my bench, but there's another lady wating to get finished there

I'm curious. How did you get that tuning cap so clean? Every surface looks spotless.
Great thread! Good luck with it.

John S.

First I washed it in warm soapy water and then slathered navel jelly on it with a small bristle paint brush. I've never used navel jelly on a tuning cap before and was suprised how well it worked. I gently scraped away the small amount of rust then rinsed it. Then I used automobile polishing compound on all of the accessable surfaces, rubbing it with an old tee shirt, rinsed and then used Brasso with a tee shirt to polish it up. I probably spent way too much time on it but I was at work and like to stay busy. It's a good thing to do while sitting in front of your vintage TV watching shows

Thanks for the info. I have used my ultrasonic cleaner with good effect, but yours looks like it just came out of the factory, so I just had to ask.

Wish I had time to think at work, much less actually do something that is interesting and useful outside the job.....

Keep the great threads coming! And thanks again.
John S.

I had a chance to work a little on the chassis today. I pulled the flyback and cleaned it up. I wanted to access the chassis better for cleaning. I also pulled the yoke. To clean up the flyback I used black shoe polish on the core and cloth first aid tape to recover the windings. The windings are still encased in some kind of translucent plastic from the factory. For the brackets I used Rustoleum Galvanize paint. It says on the label it has 95% zinc in it. I like the tortoise shell rectifier socket. there's a really cool transparent loctal socket near the tuner for the 7F8. Pics later.

Here's where the chassis is as far as cleaning goes. The gime was pretty deep seated on this one and I've scraped, brushed and sanded to get it back to metal. I still have quite a bit to go around the IF's and cans. I'm using 220 grit and will probably graduate to around 400 grit--or until I lose patience.

I think I'll also start the recapping this week as well and do my cap inventory/ order. I think I have enough to get a good start.

I messed with my B&K CRT tester--after I reattached the base on the CRT. At first the filiment glowed, got brighter for a half second and then went out. I thought the CRT wastoast but it turns out the B&K is the culprit, since I'm still getting continuity on the filiment. There's a single electrolytic in the B&K and I think another HV cap that I'll replace.

Here's where the chassis is as far as cleaning goes. The gime was pretty deep seated on this one and I've scraped, brushed and sanded to get it back to metal. I still have quite a bit to go around the IF's and cans. I'm using 220 grit and will probably graduate to around 400 grit--or until I lose patience.

I think I'll also start the recapping this week as well and do my cap inventory/ order. I think I have enough to get a good start.

I messed with my B&K CRT tester--after I reattached the base on the CRT. At first the filament glowed, got brighter for a half second and then went out. I thought the CRT wastoast but it turns out the B&K is the culprit, since I'm still getting continuity on the filament. There's a single electrolytic in the B&K and I think another HV cap that I'll replace.

how are you coming on that chassis cleaning....

sorry could not help myself

Haha! I'll tell you after I dig all of the rust powder out of my nose