pic is posted if anyone if interested..I have to seal the CRT yet..and a couple more small things to do..,but you would really have to see the color on these sets to see a difference in todays color set..<BR>terry<P>------------------<BR>terry

Hi Terry,<BR>I was just admiring your CT100, it's really looking terrific. Can you explain more on the color comparison with a modern set please. Looking at the picture there's a gap between the edge of the image and the mask. I guess the picture size is limited by the seperate phosphor screen mounted inside the envelope in the first tubes. There must have been some lively discussion at RCA on whether to make the mask small enough to cover the tube face down to the image size or make it to the faceplate size as it is. I wonder if it's larger to make the tube size appear larger and more impressive or to allow for putting the phosphor directly on the faceplate as in the modern tube and get the image to fill the front of the screen.<BR>While I guess they would have been working on the next generation of tubes I suspect the former. Thanks for the picture.<BR>Don Black.<P>------------------<BR>

That certainly is one beautiful set! The CT-100 was a 15 inch screen, was it not? I find sets from that era (both color and black and white) have more charachter than the sets of today, and probably get better pictures, and are probably better in fringe reception areas than some of the ones of today. <P>------------------<BR>

We have to remember that the CT100 was the real pioneer of color television. The big problem in color tubes was the red phosphor being the weak link in the tube. I had a CTC-5 set, still with the old phosphor, and when setting up the set, yoiu always had to have the red gun going for all it was worth. Must have been around 1962 or so that the "rare earth" (Europeum?) phosphor came out, and that cured the red problem. <BR>Regarding snesitivity, of course, modern tuners are many times hotter than the earlier ones. You used to buy signal boosters for your set, but when is the last time you saw one? <BR>Yes, bandwidth of the video was the full 4.5 MC on the earlier sets, but when the prices came down, so did the video bandwidth. Look at any Muntz next to an RCA 630, and you'll see what I mean! With the big screens, and the need to carry the 3.58 MC. color burst, the set has to have full bandwidth. And with the tubes in the late tube sets, better gain was possible with the better tubes. Today, solid state IF. and RF gain is more than ever dreamed of back in the fifties. <BR>Back then, who'da thunk that people would put their color console set, often a projection set out for the trash when it gave up the ghost. And, there are few who'd rescue the thing, anyway.<BR>If you really want to be ridiculous, I can show a 630TS next to an RCA TRK-12, and the picture is downright respectable on the TRK-12, of 7 years earlier.<P>------------------<BR>

the color on this set is fantastic,very deep reds and greens..the pic I posted just does not show it,I am amazed how well this thing works..(hooked up to a DSS)..it takes approx 3 mins for a excellent grey scale..(tracking) ,all guns test excellent but interesting it does take red the 3mins to come up,and it is related to the CRT,the picture on this is very sharp in detail,color like I said above is deep and just interesting to watch..<BR>I had bad screen controls(yes wirewound 15k),and could not find them anyplace,steve george recomended "MOYER ELECTRONICS"and they were able to build the controls from old stock controls..they look and work original.I am trying to figure out how to thank them for that...<BR>talk about replacing paper capacitors.. well can you imagine how many there were to replace in this chassis?.. <IMG SRC="http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/smile.gif">~~<BR>thanks guys..!<BR>terry<P>------------------<BR>terry

Wow, nice set. Where's everyone getting all these CT-100's from? I read on another site that there are almost 20 known working ones now (and that's been increasong at abotu one every two months)! I'd love to see one in person. <P>Does anyone know anything about the westinghouse set that came out shortly before the CT-100? I've seen pictures, but never any mention of a working set, or even one under restoration.<P>------------------<BR>

ac<P>I'm very fortunate to have a nice example of the Westinghouse H840CK15 but unfortunately the developmental precursor to the 15GP22, the C-73599 which it came with is gassy. <P>There are some rear and chassis pictures of mine at <A HREF="http://www.tvhistory.tv/advertising3.htm" TARGET=_blank>www.tvhistory.tv/advertising3.htm</A> <BR>This set has a really magnificent main chassis with the CRT mounted on it rather than to the cabinet like the CT-100 and others. It has 41 tubes and heats the home electrically with 500 watts. <P>Steve McVoy has restored a couple of these rare sets and has one currently in his fine TV museum. Check out <A HREF="http://www.earlytelevision.org" TARGET=_blank>www.earlytelevision.org</A> <P>Rob<P>------------------<BR>

Hi Rob, Thanks for your fine web site and links. That's a rare set, a real shame the tube's gassy. Do you think it's possible to eventually get it rebuilt? I guess it would depend on how gassy it is, whether the phosphors are still OK.<BR>Don Black.<P>------------------<BR>

A couple of people who contribute to Pete Deksnis's site <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~pldexnis/" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~pldexnis/</A> are working on rebuilding the 15GP22. It is a complicated process, but they are making progress. I think there are over 50 dud tubes out there to be rebuilt, and a number of CT-100s that would come to life if the project is successful. Watch Pete's site for reports.<P>------------------<BR>

<P>Hi Don,<P>I cannot take credit for this outstanding website which is turning into what will probably be the most comprehensive coverage of the history of television hardware development on the web. It is the fine work of Tom Genova. See <A HREF="http://www.tvhistory.tv" TARGET=_blank>www.tvhistory.tv</A> <P>Rob<P>------------------<BR>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Don Black:<BR><B>Hi Rob, ... That's a rare set, a real shame the tube's gassy. Do you think it's possible to eventually get it rebuilt? I guess it would depend on how gassy it is, whether the phosphors are still OK.<BR>Don Black.<P></B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Don,<P>Because my CRT is a much rarer developmental version of what is almost rare in its production version I have decided it would be a crime against the future to fiddle with this tube so I will not try to have it rebuilt. I am looking for a rebuildable dud 15G, or better yet a working tube. My set started to come up when soft started and when the HV came up the brilliant pink glow in the neck told me the unfortunate status of the CRT. I didn't pursue electronic restoration after that. I will more likely leave this rare set totally unrestored as I believe it will be more valuable (and I'm not just talkin' about the money which I'll never see which is secondary to the worth of a real piece of historical importance) 50 years from now if I can resist temptation and leave it completely alone. Then there is another factor with a set like this. If it did work, I'd be scared to turn it on, so how can you enjoy a working artifact like this if you have no spare? <IMG SRC="http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/frown.gif"><P>Rob<P>------------------<BR>

what exactly happens to the phosphor coating when exposed to air..? I didn't think that oxygen or "air" damaged the coating till what i have read lately..I am waiting for the high vacuum sealant to get here so i can take the CRT out and seal it..that should be scary..I am trying to figure out how to get the base off and seal the nipple at the end also..while it is "curing" i will clean up dust out of the rest of the cabinet..<BR>but still am curious what happens to the coating if exposed..anyone care to explain this..?..thanks to all of you for advice and help on this set,I have been talking and e-mailing a few members here who have this set also,and their experience has been very helpfull.. again thanks to steve mcvoy,john k folsom jr,P.L.Deksnis,and others who I may have missed..this is a interesting hobby.<BR>I have a RC helicopter that I built a few years ago and I have been trying to fly.. i have lost total interest in it,and like the antique television end of it better.. <IMG SRC="http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/smile.gif">..<BR>terry<BR><P>------------------<BR>terry

Make in the early 70's I bought one at an auction house for $5.00. Took it home and it played with VERY weak color. Called a well known service man and he told me "No way am I ever going to work on one of those beasts again but I'll tell you how to adjust the tuner." I thought he was putting me on and checked everything and decided that the crt was dying so I did what he told me. He was right, it was trail and error and three days later and much sweat and choice words LO and BEHOLD. A beautiful picture. After a couple of years in the kids room I sold it at the enormous profit of $50.00. Wasn't I smart to grab such a deal? BOO HOO<P>------------------<BR>

Beautiful! My heart is fine, but if I had that set, and got that good a picture out of it, I'm not sure if I could stand it! Maybe someday I'll get my CTC-5 back in order, for now have to make due with a pretty good CTC-11.<P>------------------<BR>

From what I've read, most 15GP22's have gone gassy, but are otherwise fine. I've always wondered about the possibility of re-evacuating gassy CRTs. Couldn't someone with a good vacuum pump and glass working equipment cut off the exhaust tip, weld a new exhaust tube on and evacuate the CRT? Obviously the glass to metal seals would need to be sealed with that high vacuum epoxy I've heard people mention to prevent it from becoming gassy again. It also might need to be baked in an oven to drive off absorbed gas and other imputities, depending on how gassy it was. This would also only work in cases where there's still some usable cathode material and the heaters are intact. <P>------------------<BR>

A tube that has lost all its vacuum (full of air) will lose its phosphor. I was once told by a rebuilder they wouldn't touch them after a day with air. If you see a tube that's had air in it for some time the phosphor discolors and peels off. If the exhaust tip is broken off the blast of air rushing in can blow it off but if that doesn't happen it will still "oxidize".<BR>Don Black.<P>------------------<BR>