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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 5:58 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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philsoldradios wrote: pielock373 wrote: I'm going to have to document every move, many connections to remember. In one project I wrote up a checklist of every step needed to reinstall/reconnect the chassis. This was after two occasions when I forgot something, a different thing each time. No harm done, but I sure felt like a dolt. It's a mnemonic device. After writing the list, I never needed to look at it. Phil Nelson
Phil
That was me when I did my Predicta. That main circuit board with all those connections, what a bitch!! I was glad when that project was done. I'm not a big fan of TV's from the Late 50's and 60's. Putting hot tube on printed circuit boards was not a good combination.
Steve
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Eric H
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 6:01 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 5726 Location: Redlands CA
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Looks like there's no screen burn at all on that CRT, it's probably very low hours or even new.
I have three tubes for my Philco, the used ones are well browned where the raster is, the NOS one looks like yours, no burn.
I would be careful with the brightness control and keep it at minimum until your sure you have some deflection, you could burn a spot or line in it in a heartbeat at full brightness and no sweep!
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ChuckA
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 6:15 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 586 Location: Southeastern, PA
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pielock373 wrote: Chuck
Is there a way to disconnect the HV cable from one end or the other to free the HV chassis from the projection bell? The flyback looks to be in good shape. Look over to the right at those paper clips holding the caps Steve
Easiest is to release the cable from the barrel, loosen the strain relief on the side, then disconnect the cable from the CRT support/HV connector and pull it out.
That phenolic board is one of the failure points, you can get carbon tracks burned into the board. If so the only solution is to replace it.
_________________ Chuck
http://www.myvintagetv.com
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radiorich
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 6:43 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 9157 Location: Omak,wa,usa
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Hello pielock373
yes I to would have the same problem that is a big cabinet
Rich
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 3:28 pm |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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I'm thrilled to see everything is original, totally unmolested! The only chassis that shows work is the HV chassis, probably needed tubes changed at one point. What I'm liking the most about this project is by breaking the chassis' into 4 simple sections, it makes each chassis simple and manageable.
Chassis pictures...
HV top
Bottom
TV, LV power supply and amp chassis top
Bottom
Empty cabinet left
Right

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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 11:15 pm |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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Made good progress today on both the electronics clean up and started stripping the cabinet.
Chassis' have been cleaned
Started stripping the cabinet, it's a start...
Before
After
I hit it with a test coat of Min-wax stain to get an idea of what it's going to look like.
The inner control areas are in great shape and will not need restoring.

Last edited by pielock373 on Mar Mon 28, 2011 12:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 12:52 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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Eric H wrote: Looks like there's no screen burn at all on that CRT, it's probably very low hours or even new.
I have three tubes for my Philco, the used ones are well browned where the raster is, the NOS one looks like yours, no burn.
I would be careful with the brightness control and keep it at minimum until your sure you have some deflection, you could burn a spot or line in it in a heartbeat at full brightness and no sweep!
Eric H
Thanks for your input, it is very much appreciated! I need all the help I can muster on this one. I agree the tube looks to be in very good shape, in fact all of the electronics seem to be in a "hardly used" state. No signs of cooked areas in the HV section. The fly-back looks like new, no sign of wax melt of cracking.
This set is the "Holy Grail" for me, I never thought I would run into one. The best part is my wife didn't pitch a fit when she saw it, I think she has given up fighting it!  All she said was "that great, I'm going out and spend some money on me" that works for me!
Steve
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Thewasp
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 1:33 am |
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Joined: Nov Tue 18, 2008 8:34 am Posts: 731 Location: Hutchinson,Kansas
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Was this the tv that was on ebay in Indiana?
Super cool! Gonna enjoy watching this project!
Todd
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 1:41 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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Thewasp wrote: Was this the tv that was on ebay in Indiana?
Super cool! Gonna enjoy watching this project!
Todd
Hi Todd
No, this was in lower Illinois. That one on ebay was also a cool one.
Steve
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radiorich
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 2:33 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 9157 Location: Omak,wa,usa
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Hello pielock373
Yes The way to almost any womans heart is to let them spend some money on them selfs
Woman love to shop for clothes and makeup .
Rich
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M3-SRT8
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 3:05 am |
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Joined: Nov Thu 08, 2007 2:44 am Posts: 2196 Location: Worcester, Mass.
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Is this set dangerous to work on?
_________________ Lee
Worcester, Mass
"Repairs/Resto's of Early TVs & Radios a Specialty - Just PM Me"
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 3:57 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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M3-SRT8 wrote: Is this set dangerous to work on?
Not until you plug it in!  28,000 Volts is freaking me out a bit. The HV cable is very thick! Believe me I'll be checking everything twice before the first power up. I Can't believe they put a highly flammable cotton material light stop right over a tube that has to get somewhat hot during operation. The other thing I'm seeing is the use of polarized AC plugs from chassis to chassis. I think that wanted to make sure they had a common ground so it don't make a HV circuit potential from one chassis to the other.
Steve
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ChuckA
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 7:33 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 586 Location: Southeastern, PA
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The 5TP4 is maxed out at 24KV, no worse than working on a color TV. You want fun, work on a set that uses a 5AZP4 at 40KV, I have a couple of them. Never got a chance to work on one with a 7NP4, not sure if I really want to - anode at 80KV.
The CRT doesn't get that much hotter than any other, the light shield bags are usually rotted out, not burned.
_________________ Chuck
http://www.myvintagetv.com
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analog.tv
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 9:42 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 582 Location: Greenbelt, Maryland USA
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It's dangerous only if it falls on you. You might get with Chuck A about swapping out the lower power supply. One of those transformers looks fried. You can use the windings out of the old one for a radio antenna across the neighbor's back yard. Have fun....Chuck has repaired several of these....so have I. My 741PCS is a daily driver. Be careful with the video chassis in that the electrolytics' mounts are fragile and easily cracked while re-capping the underside. CRAIG
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Tue 29, 2011 1:31 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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analog.tv wrote: It's dangerous only if it falls on you. You might get with Chuck A about swapping out the lower power supply. One of those transformers looks fried. You can use the windings out of the old one for a radio antenna across the neighbor's back yard. Have fun....Chuck has repaired several of these....so have I. My 741PCS is a daily driver. Be careful with the video chassis in that the electrolytics' mounts are fragile and easily cracked while re-capping the underside. CRAIG
I'm not sure what you are seeing with the transformer, there are no signs of damage to any of them. The top of then were a bit rust pitted. There is no sign of heat damage at all with either?
Steve
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Wed 30, 2011 1:43 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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Transformer mystery solved. The other night when analog.tv noted that the transformer looked bad I inspected both transformers and couldn't see any issue with the transformers but the chassis was covered in ejection spray. I plugged in the chassis and verified both transformers had good working voltages but I was still bothered by all the mess on the chassis like something had let go? Then I spotted it, T2 has been replaced with a Thordarson replacement. In the picture below you can see they had to re-drill new holes to make the new unit fit. Mystery solved! Sorry I doubted you analog.tv

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M3-SRT8
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Wed 30, 2011 9:52 pm |
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Joined: Nov Thu 08, 2007 2:44 am Posts: 2196 Location: Worcester, Mass.
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After you completely remove everything out of the cabinet, vacuum it out, and wipe the inside with Mineral Spirits, using an old cotton shirt. Not Lacquer Thinner, but Mineral Spirits. It will remove all mold, surface grime, etc. Then wipe on a thin film of MinWax Red Mahogany Stain. That will cover any scratches, etc, and really make the inside pop. Watch out for labels, etc...
That's assuming it's mahogany. It looks like it.
_________________ Lee
Worcester, Mass
"Repairs/Resto's of Early TVs & Radios a Specialty - Just PM Me"
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Mar Wed 30, 2011 11:26 pm |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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I'm reaching the halfway point with the stripping and refinishing. The grain in this wood is out of the world!!

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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 12:53 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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Well the weather isn't cooperating for continuing to strip the cabinet with snow on the way so I moved back to concentrating on the chassis'.
1. The LV supply is done and ready to go.
2. Schmidt optical barrel is back together and ready to go.
3. I'm checking all the tubes and cleaning their sockets.
4 Cleaning and testing all the controls and switches.
5. The cap's are ordered and should be hear in a couple of weeks from Just Radios.
6. I'm going to start checking out the audio amp chassis tonight.
So I'm well on my way to resurrecting this old beauty. I hope to have the cabinet done by late next week and then it's onto replacing caps when they arrive. The biggest problem I see coming down the pike will be setting up a table that I can run the components outside of the cabinet to do a first power up/check out and alignment of the Television receiver chassis. I'm blown away that such a complex optical projection system was design in 1945 so it could start being manufactured as early as 1947. These early engineers where right on the cutting edge of post war technology!
Steve
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pielock373
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Post subject: Posted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 8:33 am |
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Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
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While doing some initial cleaning and test of components on the HV Chassis this morning I noticed the HV line running from the focus control to pin 6 (1st anode) of the 5tp4 kine-scope is starting to look toasted so I am going to replace it. The 1st anode is carrying 6000v, this cable looks very identical to the original. http://otelectronics.com/1m-15kvdc-17aw ... e-stranded
Has anyone dealt with this company before?
Steve
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