Outstanding work, Steve!!!

Thanks you sir

It's coming along, I ran out of daylight. A storm system is coming in for the next couple of days but soon after; several more coats, some buffing and a polish it will look like new. I can't wait to get all the brass hardware back on it, that will spruce it up a bit.



Steve

This may have been mentioned but just in case . . . . .

Be carefull around the HV supply and the CRT.

Anything higher than about 25.000 volts generates X-Rays.

The X-Ray shielding around the optical area and the HV rectifiers is marginal on these early projection sets.

Jim

Try an electric toothbrush with some Noxon or Brasso on that RCA Victor Logo...

Those logos are brass plated pot metal. Once the brass is worn off, probably the best thing to do is paint it with a good matching metallic paint.

Yeah, I've done that, too. I also would hit it with a top coat of clear coat lacquer in an appropriate sheen.

I would still prep it with an electric toothbrush, this time with soft scrub or toothpaste as a rubbing agent, to get rid of any surface crud inside the letters, etc. Rinse thoroughly, dry, then paint.

...fussy!

Here is a front view of the test fitting of all the cabinet components (control nook open on the bottom photo). This television will be quite the conversation piece when it's done.

Before



After, not too shabby for 63 years old. The plastic Fresnel viewing lens is in very good shape, no cracks or fogging.

I worked on testing all the tubes and cleaning their sockets last night as well as cleaning all the controls and checking to make sure they were reading correctly. Just waiting now for the caps and a High Voltage replacement cable to arrive, then I can start restoring the four chassis' in the set.

I am also starting to investigate re-silvering the mirrors. I'm holding off on that until I have success with restoring the function to the electronics. The re-silvering is going to be a hefty investment, no sense in putting a lot of cash into them unless the TV is working! I can't wait to see an image on the screen.

Steve

Looks might good!!! Excellent work.

That's reverse silvering, not the usual type.
Why do you need a new hv wire?
Be careful around flyback. That's un-obtainium...
The hv should be around 28,000 volts on that set.
I will try to remember to look it up in my RCA red book to confirm that number.
There is one B+ resistor in amp chassis that is often bad mounted on bottom side. They often short, and, burn out....
Nice job on cabinet.
I had 4 of these sets in Detroit many years ago. Now I can't get even one.
Bill Cahill

Hi Bill

I'm going to take the mirrors to a company I use when my telescope mirrors need refinishing, they are also first surface mirrors.

The HV line that I'm replacing is the 1st anode 5000 volt line, not the larger 25,000 volt line. It looks a bit dried out and cooked in a couple of places so I thought I would treat it to a new cable.

I 've got my fingers crossed hoping the flyback is good! It looks like new so I'm hoping it works that way too!

I've checked all of the flat chassis mounted resisters in the set they are all right on the money for ohms so I'm going to leave them be for now.

Steve

You do fine cabinet work, that set looks real nice.

I will be following with interest on how you do with the front surface mirror.

I tried to buy a replacement mirror for my Scott 6T-11 projection set and tried several mirrors made by various companies and was amazed just how poorly they reflect the light.

The original mirror is still in place but is has been cleaned improperly and has a few swirls which actually don’t show up in the picture on the screen. The Scott doesn’t use a Fresnel lens screen but it does have adequate brightness.

The Protelgram - Schmidt optical system is tightly sealed in a metal box. The spherical mirror and a flat mirror the 3 inch CRT passes through. The CRT has a precision curved front glass screen. There is an aspherical corrector out the top of the optical box. There is one 8 X 11 ish front surface flat mirror on the underside of the lid.

Protelgram made different aspherical corrector lenses depending on the projection distance which caused me problems when I first got this set going. Fortunately I had a quantity of projection units with a selection of lenses.

The Protelgram projection has a bunch of focus and alignment adjustments and I found the easiest way to set it up was to feed a crosshatch alignment signal into the TV. On the Scott the folding screen can be slid forward about an inch with the stop removed which makes a double image of the crosshatch. With the several alignment adjustments I was able to get the double image to have the same spacing all over the screen and then when I slid the screen back into position and adjusted the final focus I had visible scan lines all over the screen.

The optical alignment (collimation?) was much trickier than I figured.

Jim

Yes there does seem to be a lot of variables when making the opto-mechanical adjustments. I found my I-phone fits perfectly in the tube cradle so I'm going to ruff it in using that, then put the tube in place and tweak the picture up hopefully minimizing my hands in the proximity of 25kvolts

Steve

I had a mirror recoated by Spectrum Coatings a few years ago for my Philco 48-2500 projection set. They did a good job.

Stripping the surface of the original mirror and recoating with fresh aluminum will give a mirror as good as the original.

There are several companies in New England that I can drive the mirrors to myself, the thought of shipping something as irreplaceable as this makes me nervous as hell!

Steve

Groan, I can see it now. The iPhone TV Test Pattern app

Two days ago I downloaded a book about iPhone app development. Interesting reading if you're an ex-programmer, but lightning would strike me down if I ever touched a Mac keyboard.

Phil Nelson

Steve,

If you end up needing a flyback, I have a few of the HV chassis' laying around here, and if you do break your mirror there's a couple of them around here too. Actually they aren't real easy to break ( a hammer or 5' drop on concrete will do it), I have one laying in a box that I'm always dropping junk into.

Your going to get the same amount of pain from the HV on this set as you will from a 630, it's not the shock, it's the recoil of your hand as it hits the cabinet at 100 mph that hurts.

Cabinet looks really good.

It's the 5 amp operating rating on the back of the set that had me worried, in the Winter I plan to heat the room with it!

Thanks for being here Chuck, It's nice to know I won't be completely dead in the water, if I need to go scavenging for parts. I really appreciate the offer!! I should have the cap's by the 15th; then it's full speed ahead on this project!

Steve

I don't think you have a problem with your flyback, Steve. Didn't the previous owner said it worked, and put out a picturen of sorts?

That would indicate a good flyback, don't you think...?

I don't think you have a problem with your flyback, Steve. Didn't the previous owner said it worked, and put out a picture of sorts?

That would indicate a good flyback, don't you think...?