All voltage chatactoristics are the same as 10BP4.
Bill Cahill

Yes. Set the control to minimum, move the switch to 4-7 volts, then turn the power on and adjust the control for 6.3 volts on the meter.

Also, if the readings are low at first, let it warm up for an hour or more. These old CRTs that have been sitting round for decades can take a good long while to come back to life. Using the rejuvination feature is a bad idea. These a chance you could blow a lot of material off the cathode or burn out the filament.

I've got my fingers crossed for ya

Thank you both

Bob, also I did mention that the base is quite loose, you can see old glue residue from decades ago, I when to the auto store and bought some Permatex as recommended in your video on gluing a base to that globe tube that was missing. Would this be good for the CRT, or should I use something else. Thanks
Jon

Yes, I've used Permatex Windshield & Glass Sealer on loose CRT bases with good results.

Hmm... I just acquired a GE 801 and it has a GE branded 10BP4 with an ion trap. Could be that they used the 10FP4 when they could and the 10BP4 when supplies ran low.

vts1134 that is an interesting thought. My paper label on back of the cabinet has the 10BP4, but someone crossed it off with pencil and wrote in 10FP4. I still have to test my picture tube. Did your's test good or decent? I am scared that mine will be dead.

BUT I think otherwise now. Even though does not really reinforce what the picture tube might read. I pulled out all the tubes, cleaned each and came across one that was made in Japan. I will keep it for now unless I have a USA one on hand.

My question is to all of you is when did the US start receiving Japan made vacuum tubes. This is the first time I have come across this with all 7 or 8 sets I have already cleaned in my collection.

Are you sure yours is an FP4? They would be aluminized.
GE only used that tube on some models, I've found. I have one bakelite GE Locomotive with original 10BP4, and, the tube chart shows that number.
Bill Cahill

Yeah, I think only some models and early production sets used a 10BP4. My GE 800 locomotive shows a 10BP4 while my GE 802, 806 and 810 show a 10FP4 in the tube chart.

I do wonder why someone crossed out the 10BP4 and put a 10FP4, a replacement? Also on the tag it says 802, Bob, does yours also say 802, from your pictures yours stated 802-DP, mine is a 802.

here is what I don't get, look to the right of 802, is this a sub model like bandersens, I don't know

Here's the label from mine. I suspect yours is an earlier production run with the changes penciled in. The rest appears to be identical.

I expect that they switched to the 10FP4 almost as soon as it became available. They would not necessarily change model numbers or wait for a new model to come out.

So I would have to agree that my model was a earlier production run, as Tom just stated, they turned to the 10FP4 when available, and still used the earlier sticker when the 10BP4 was common. good I was curious to see why the difference.

In some of GE's early 50's advertising they use the term Black-Daylight Television, I wonder if this referred to an Aluminized tube or DC restoration, or both?

Actually, it refers to the phosphor. It was supposed to be better quality.
Bill Cahill

Here's an example of those ads: http://library.duke.edu/digitalcollecti ... ss_TV0598/

"58% deeper blacks and 140% great picture range" - of course there's no mention of what they are comparing it to

I know this is an old post, but I think I just bought the record changer for the original cabinet. If you are around and interested, let me know. How about a trade?

I have the exact same unit. I am not a collector or a radio buff, but i dont want to just throw it away please let me know if you or anyone else is interested. Thanks

Where are you located? I know people would be interested, but, without knowledge of where you are, it's hard to tell.
Bill Cahill