...with a CR-23 neck socket (standard resolution)? The original tube specifically is a 19VJTP22 but it has significant screen burn and I would like to replace it with a new or like-new tube (i.e., zero screen burn, bright/strong, no significant scratches on the face, never been rejuvenated).

It would be especially nice to find one with a yoke still on it that matches the yoke that's on my current tube (vertical ohms = 54.5, horizontal ohms = 2.6) so I wouldn't have to mess with convergence; but either way, if I could just find a perfect tube I'd be set for life with this particular monitor (since I don't use it enough to ever wear out a new tube myself).

I guess these could be found in donor TVs, but is that like searching for a needle in a haystack or are there certain TVs that would definitely have what I need?

You can try someone like Video Display Co, that deals with CRTs....

http://www.cathoderaytubes.com/

I'm guessing many TV used a similar CRT that could be used but as far as finding something with a like yoke, that's about zero and none...

Tom

this person on eBay has a couple Color CRTs listed, they are metric numbers so I don't know if they cross or not.
He says he has others so it might be worth contacting him.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chroma-Bright-R ... 56372f5e13

A A63 tube is a 23" tube, a true 19" (19Vxxx22) is a A51xxx22 I believe...

Says they are UPS shippable, yea and it's a 50/50 chance of arriving intact... We shipped CRTs directly to the customers and about as often as not it was busted or the shadow mask had shifted...

Tom

It sounds like you are looking for a CRT for a stand-up arcade video game from the 1980s. Many of those used a customized monitor chassis originally built by JVC, so you could look for a JVC TV on Craigslist (nationwide, if necessary; search on Google for "jvc tv" in the domain craigslist.org in the advanced search option).

Yes, it is an Electrohome G07 monitor; a very common arcade monitor from the '80's, often seen in e.g. Pac-Man, Defender, etc. (mine is from a Missile Command). As I mentioned earlier, the tube is specifically a 19VJTP22 but any 19" CR-23 socket tube with a 6.3v heater will work. There are some TVs that used that identical tube number, and even some that used a like yoke as well (for example, the tube and yoke from a Mitsubishi CS-1902U TV is a "plug 'n' play" replacement for a G07; same deal with a Hitachi CT1933 if the yoke connector is swapped).

By the way, the metric equivalent of 19" tubes start with A48 or A51. A48 and A51 are both 19"; the difference is in how they're measured (that applies to the older ones at least). Japanese companies for example (such as Sanyo), liked to call their tubes in the '80s 20" even though they were 19" tubes (their tube numbers often started with 510 [510mm = ~20"] and there were interchangeable tubes that started with "19").

I would hit up the Thrift Stores and look for a set that looks likely.
Maybe you can see the number through the back if you take a good flashlight.

That's the one I was thinking of. G07-904 horizontal (such as Defender), G07-907 was the vertical version (Pac-Man likely, and many others). I fixed hundreds of those in my job as the warranty repair technician for Stern, Williams and occasionally others. One time we got one with the box marked "Berzerk monitor", and I had to explain to my older co-worker that that was the name of the game, not a description of the monitor's problem.

That's hilarious.

My Missile Command machine is in nice original condition (never been restored). I have its original G07 ("numbers matching"; i.e., Atari put stickers on the monitor frames with a matching serial number for the cabinet it was in), but the tube has significant burn-in. The monitor is otherwise in good working order. G07s are considered to be the most "bulletproof" of the classic arcade monitors, and also easy to fix when they do have problems. New flyback transformers are still available for them even.

I put a brand new Happ Vision Pro (CRT version) in it, which is a modern standard-resolution arcade monitor made overseas, and its picture is beautiful; perfect; but I would rather have the original G07 in there if I could find a new or like-new tube for it; just for the sake of originality. I wouldn't get rid of the Vision Pro though, because they really are nice monitors (and unfortunately, they stopped making them a year or two ago). I would use it in a newer non-classic JAMMA machine, where originality is irrelevant. Plus the Vision Pro has a remote adjustment board which makes it very handy in a JAMMA cabinet where gameboards are swapped frequently, because various gameboards output slightly different size/position rasters, and sometimes there are differences in brightness, etc.; so it is nice to have an adjustment board that you can use while standing in front of the monitor.

On top of that, the remote adjustment board on a Vision Pro has a pot for horizontal width adjustment, which is a lot nicer than messing with a horizontal width coil with a plastic allen wrench. Not only is the H-width pot more convenient than adjusting a horizontal width coil, but it also has a much wider range of adjustment. With classic arcade monitors, if you can't get enough adjustment from the horizontal width coil, you have to swap around the horizontal width capacitor with different values, and that's a frustrating guessing game.

Interesting thread...I have a similar original and nice Dig Dug machine that gradually faded into no picture a few years ago and I haven't pursued a repair...I recall reading online that a recap will frequently fix the issue...but I wondered if the CRT had died...

Sounds like a weak tube, rather than a capacitor issue. Sometimes a weak tube can be cured with a rejuvenation, but that is hit or miss; i.e., it might not work at all, or it might work but not for long.

I have a Wells Gardner K7000 that had a beautiful picture in a dark room, but during the day, you could barely see the picture because the tube was so weak. I ended up replacing it with a Happ Vision Pro, which is bright day or night.

How can I figure out how to test the crt with my circa 1970 tester?

I don't mean to hijack the thread...sorry.

It shouldn't be any different than testing any other relatively modern CRT. Pull the neckboard off the Dig Dug monitor and see what it has for a socket. Most arcade monitors had CR-23 or CR-31 sockets. As long as you have an adapter that fits the neck socket you're all set. If it is the original monitor in your Dig Dug machine, it is probably an Electrohome G07 or a Wells Gardner K4900, both of which are CR-23 sockets (the G07 and K4900 tubes are completely interchangeable in fact).

Thanks! I have been meaning to tinker with it for a few years...no good the way it is.

Again, my apologies to the OP for the detour...but thought it was better than a second post on a video arcade monitor.

Hey Tom,

I love your Avatar.

"Name's George Lebay!"