Noisebox, thankyou very much for the great photos with the measurements of the antenna tuning knob. The chances of my finding this part are probably next to none, so this will greatly help in fabricating a temp replacement.
Again, thank ypu for your time and your help on that.

No problem!
I was thinking of getting a small plastic casting kit soon. If I do I'll make you one--couldn't be that hard.
Ben

I thought I'd take some time out to do something totally unnecessary but fun. I decided to keep the volume /switch pot since DeOxit made it snappy again. The splice sleeve was pretty fugly though. I know, nobody is going to see it once the set was put back together but I get a kick out of doing stuff like this--so I did!

I found a bronze bushing that fit the shaft, got out the plumbing silver solder and flux, soldered it on the knob side, made a few lengthwise grooves on the pot side of the shaft, roughed up the inner surface of the bushing on the knob side and used J&B to stick it back together. Gotta admit--it looks a lot better.

Now back to tracing leads to finish the last three caps!!!

Found out where the cap is on the schematic
Another thing I learned--don't trace components from the ground end--it's rather impossible. I traced the cap from the other end back to V5--6AU6 pin 1. Confirmed the path through the resistors and their values on the schematic and it took me on the schematic to C56, a .22mf cap. Two more bumble bees and I'm done with the recap!

I came close to the "hole in one" of recapping - where the TV comes up with great Raster, Sound, Video. When I powered my Raytheon TV, the Vertical Blocking Oscillator Transformer was open. That was all that was wrong. I was close but no Ace:-) Received a replacement transformer today and now its working.

As meticulous as you have been with your Zenith Porthole, maybe you will get working on first power up - pulling for you.

Carl

Thanks for the vote of confidence Carl. I'm hoping it wakes up from its long sleep without too much trouble. I'm still fighting this upper respiratory infection and wish I had more energy on this day off to dig into the resistors. What I need to do instead of pecking away at them is make a list of all the replacements I'll need and order them all at once. I was pretty good in ordering the caps. All I need is one more. I'm going to go check out your Raytheon!

I hope I'm not boring anyone with my obsessive details.
This is how I'm dealing with the resistors since there are so many. I've discovered a website with a neat resistor color calculator and I run it on my phone. I went through every section on the chassis and using the calculator, I write down the value of each resisistor. I then made a master list noting wattage and multiples of any of the values. With the list in hand I went to my resistor collection to see which ones I already have. I'm going to order the missing values with extras since they're cheap and whether I use them in this set doesn't matter. I'll have what I need on hand. Payday tomorrow and time to place an order

That's pretty cool. What fustrates me is some replacement resistors use a different cod for the third band. Ex Red Red Orange (22K) would be Red Red Black Red. I ordered a kit of replacement resistors last yr which are printed like that. Very confusing.

Doug

I didn't know that. The ones I've been getting seem to always match.I'm the paranoid sort though and I always test the new ones. Where did you get the kit from?

I think it was someplace overseas like Hong Kong. I found it on Ebay. The resistors work great, and the kit was a good price, but just confusing. I make sure to check each new one with my meter before using. Here is a pic one one that SB 3300 (orange orange red). It's coded orange orange black brown.
Doug

Doug, I have a similar set of resistors - strange coding and some colors are hard to distinguish. Like you, I always check them with my Ohmmeter.

Carl

Noisebox, did you ever locate a test CRT? I've been looking for one myself for the 1951 Magnavox I'm restoring.

Doug

Those are most probably resistors with a tighter tolerance than 5%. For those they sometimes want more digits of precision. So instead of marking it 3 3 times 100 they marked it as 3 3 0 times 10.

I'm still waiting to hear back from FrankB here on the forum. He says he might have a or 8XP4. I think he said he has a few--and he has around 250,000 things to sort through to find it I put an ad in the ARF classifieds.

I placed my resistor order today. I should be able to get back to work on the rest later this week. Still no word on the test CRT. If I can't get it by the time I finish the resistors I'll use the original to see where I'm at.

Tom,

Perfect answer. 1% metal film resistors require three digits and an exponent. 5% carbon resistors require 2 digits and an exponent.

The metal film resistors are better than carbon comp. They won't drift and they are mostly fireproof.

Speaking of resistors...
They didn't arrive yet. Hopefully Monday, which is my day off. They're coming from Just Radios in Canada and I think the dog sled got hung up at the border.

In the mean time I've been working on the cabinet. The top was pretty messed up, which I'm finding is common for the tops of a lot of old radios and tvs. I stripped the finish and used a small wire brush with stripper to open up the grain and get rid of the majority of the black spots and gouges. Now I'm filling the grain back in. I'll have to re-tone to a darker mahogany as well. These are well-built cabinets. Stay tuned for more pics as I progress.

Got the resistors yesterday
It turns out I have a bunch of the 1% with the bad coloring and extra stripes.
Time to get busy.....

Went cross eyed working on the resistors today so I had to stop. The approach I'm finding easiest is to work on the resistors that are in close proximity to tube sockets. They're easy to find on the schematic that way as well. Then I'll move to the more obscure ones where I have to trace wires back to a recognizable component.

I've had this respiratory thing turn to pneumonia and so my energy is down a bit. I'm trying to rest as much as I can before I go back to work Wednesday afternoon.

At this rate it might take me until next Tuesday before I fire it up. In the mean time I'm working on misc odds and ends with the cabinet, bezel etc.

just curious, are you replacing every resistor or just those that are way off? I don't want to sound alarming, but you are doing so much part replacement that you risk making part replacement errors in multiples that could make trouble shooting a real nightmare. Note on tube sets most resistor values are not super critical. For the most part I get replacing wax caps and bumble bees and maybe the electros if they test bad (I like to leave them alone if ok for the initial check out).

The idea being to do as little as possible for a quick base line test, then going in and replacing say the filter caps (as a precaution) and resistors (if there is a problem). I suppose if you are SUPER careful which may be the case as you seem to be very meticulous so far, then you minimize the chance of errors. Just be very mindful of things like broken leads on fragile coils, shorts between tube sockets, just anything that is disturbed can lead to a break/short.

All the warnings aside I commend your efforts so far, and hope it all works when done.