People have reported success with 1N4007s, but they are slow diodes and the horizontal AFC is running at a fairly high frequency compared to the 60HZ frequency that 1N4007s are normally used at. By slow I mean that they have a high capacitance and high stored charge. Stored charge is where the diode junction acts like it contains a charged up battery. When you try to reverse the voltage on the diode it will still conduct for awhile when an ideal diode would have stopped conducting.

One problem with point contact diodes such as the 1N34, especially old stock, is that they can vary quite a lot from unit to unit. If you have a bunch of them you could measure a handful with an ohmmeter and pick two that measure the same. You also should verify that you get no indication on the ohmmeter when you reverse the leads.

Trying to use silicon where germanium (and vice versa) was originally used is asking for multiple problems down the road. It may work, somewhat, but have little annoying glitches that just can't be eliminated. It's best to use the right parts the first time.

BTW, germanium almost always has some leakage. The ratio should be at least 10 to 1.

Tom: The 1N4007 might not have been the ideal choice.

Johnny: The original AFC rectifiers were selenium, and not germanium.

It does not matter if the originals were germanium or selenium; silicon is the wrong choice for this application.

Well today the new peeking coil came in with two new 12CU5 tubes for the Audio. I installed the coil and it didn't make much difference in performance. However, the plate voltage on pin 9 of the 6BA8 had dropped to around 210 from 255. It SB 155. The B+ was still slow on coming up and it still took over a minute after the screen lit up before I had a watchable pic.
I let it cool off and decided to try one of the new 12CU5 tubes. I put one in and fire it up from a cold start. This time, after the screen it up, I had a pretty good pic with 5-10sec.
It played for over an hr and all I had to do was tweek the horiz hold 2 times because the pic shifted to the left. Otherwise the pic remained stable and centered.

I'll give it another bench test, and if it passes, I SB ready to start reassembly .

Anybody got any ideas on what I can do about the missing safety glass?

Doug

Can you post a photo or two of how the screen appears now?

Here you go:

When you have it all back together, show us another photo.

I will. I've still got to put a shot of clear on the cabinet though. Weather permitting, I'll try to do tat tomorrow.

Ok Guys, here it is. I just got it back together and fired it up. The only thing missing is the safety glass and 2 knobs. This set had no knobs when I bought it, but I had a junker chasis of the same which I was able to salvage most of the knobs from. The fine tuning was broken on the shaft. I'm going to look in my box of knobs and see if I can make another shaft. I originally had all 3 of the small knobs, but at one time, one dropped on the floor and I discovered my basset hound had chewed it up. I'll see if I have a suitable replacement.
Otherwise it seems to be fine. Thanks so much for all the help.
Doug

The horizontal looks good, but the vertical height is suffering. Have you tried replacing V5?

That's one of those pics where the video is not displayed in a full vertical frame.