Picked it up last night--ain't she sweet?

Some info--the chassis is the 23G24. The heater on the CRT, pin 1 and 12, showed around 1.6 ohms so I'm assuming it's ok at this point. The chassis appeared unmolested but a tell tale sign, the white lamp cord attached to the antenna terminals, is a giveaway that someone tried to power the set up.

Before I pulled the chassis I peered under it since there is screen, and I noticed a new electrolytic underneath as well as an ugly gob of a cardboard tube it looks like someone stuffed some electrolytics in. At least the former owner had some idea and hopefully didn't do damage.

There appeared to be no burnt components and I didn't see any paper caps replaced--or resistors. One thing I dreaded since I've never taken on something this complicated--is someone getting in and doing a half--job of it and messing up the original layout.

The cabinet is in great shape and I plan on conserving the finish.

Once I get my day going I'll pull the chassis and then the fun begins

That is indeed a nice looking porthole. I agree, all it needs is some touch up and you can preserve the finish. The beauty of an original finish is very hard to duplicate by refinishing.

Make sure you remove screws on that front panel slide switch - believe me, I yanked the wires off it two times removing the chassis. Easy to overlook.

Yours does look complete and in exceptional condition.
You got the back, front door, knobs (how about behind the front door), etc.
Grill cloth looks perfect. Bezel looks great too.
That front door is solid brass and will polish out nicely.

Post some pictures of the chassis. All of us here like to see pictures and write ups on the restoration process.

Carl

Carl--I beat you to it--I already tugged on the switch wires
Fortunately, I'm patient enough to know that something was resisting and I got it undone before I did damage. All the knobs are also there behind the front plate and I discovered the yellow of the plate is ancient lacquer. I'm going to clean that up, redo the letters and re-lacquer with a slightly golden tone to keep in line with the patina of the set.

First a couple things I found....



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Here's some more shots. Looks tedious to me--just the way I like it. Something I know from ARF threads--replace the sand resistors. How can I tell if the flyback is ok? It looks horrible.

Another thing I need to know is how to remove the CRT. It looks like these two retainers need to go and it slips forward?

That's not retainers. It's the ion trap. Don't take it apart!
The magnets will lose their magnetism.
That flyback looks seriously like toast.
Picture tube does come out of front. You loosen that strap, slide off ion trap, unplug socket, of course, and, you remove screws holding plastic insulator mask on chassis. Carefully remove tube.
I am concerned about that flyback.
Bill Cahill
Let us see photos of coil side of flyback, please.

Just to make sure--the ion trap slides off the back of the tube toward the socket? Won't those two large rings fall off? Photos of the flyback coming soon..

Regarding noisebox's Porthole:
Chassis 23G24 is not specifically listed on the ETF website.
Which one covers this chassis?
Wonder if an HVO6 Flyback will work?
I recall a post recently listing a lot of Thor Flybacks for sale.

Your Chassis should clean up very nice.
My 24G26 chassis was so rusty that I had to paint it.

Figure out what Schematic goes with your chassis and get the cross reference
for you Flyback.

You got a gem.

Carl

I'm using the 23G23 schematic, which is pretty close. Mine has the audio OT on top--the first difference I've noticed.

It does clean up nice Actually the cleanest piece I've had the chance to work on. Just a damp cloth and light touch up with a green scrubber.

I'd reserve judgement on the flyback for the moment. Some can still work despite having melted wax. It can be recoated if necessary.

Phil Nelson

The 23G23 Service manual lists the Flyback as Zenith part # S-16204.
This post ...
viewtopic.php?t=10790
...suggests that replacement Flyback is Thordason Fly-104, Merit HVO-11, or Stancor A-8268.

Keep an eye out for one of these.

Carl

I'm still squeamish about pulling the CRT. Is the ion trap supposed to slip over the socket? Seems like a very tight fit.

Not familiar with that style ION trap.
The ones I've seen have a screw to tighten/loosen it. My GE Model 50 press fits over the neck of the tube.

Use your digital camera and take lots of detailed pictures.
I found photos useful in putting things back together.

Carl

It's these things keeping the CRT from sliding forward.

I would think its an ION trap.
ION traps are adjusted by sliding them and rotating them.
Can you gently twist it?

What is the number for the CRT in your set?

Carl

The CRT is 12UP4A or 12LP4A Chassis 23G24. This is a photo I took of the tube layout from the sticker on the inside the cabinet.
The ion trap can slide a bit but it's pretty tight.

Ion trap magnets that I've seen either slide off or they have clamping screws that you loosen before moving the magnet. If this one doesn't clamp, then it must slide.

One of those rings has a gap. Maybe you can use a screwdriver blade to temporarily widen the gap and make it easier to slide.

If it's tight on the tube base, hold the base steady (push gently toward the CRT bell) to avoid pulling the base off the neck.

Phil Nelson