Well it's no dang wonder you don't have that set up and running. I see substitute parts! A GE tube in an RCA? Bill!!

We hold these truths to be self-evident: That all tubes are created equal...

Bill:

I can not imagine that the flyback has anything to do with the problems that you are having with that set. You said that your B+ is 260. What about the 375 volt line? What is the B+ on the plates of the vertical output tube and on the oscillator tubes?

If you have good audio in the phono position you must at least have the 375 going to the audio xformer. I would double check the connections of that 375 B+ line going to the other circuits.

Steve

Tv is temporarily in the cabinet. I pulled out my 1946 Grantline 78 rpm record player, and finnished repairs on that. Arm wasn't put together properly, and, I put a more correct cartridge in the arm. Anyone got any new 78 rpm saphire needles for s front screw cartridge??
Cartridge drystal is still quite alive, it wa a new, old stock cartridge from I believe the early 60's.
This machine has an 8" turntable, and, a plastic bullet shape tone arm.I belive it was sold by WT Grant. Has a single on-off vol control, and a slide switch to turn motor on, and off. Front mount 5" speaker, and, suitcase clips in front to lock case. Lid support, and a leather carrying handle on left side of case. Three tube amp consists of a 35Z5, 50L6, and 12SQ7.
Glad this one is now done..... Just need a better needle.
Bill Cahill I'll post on it in phono section.

Probably a good idea to walk away from that for a while. I had a set like that back in the '60's that was driving me nuts and I was ready to toss it out. Woke up one night about 3 days later and knew what the problem was. Not a fair comparison though as you don't know where your set has been or how many poor techs may have been in it leaving whatever. I'm about to dig into an Andrea VK12 and wondering were it is going to lead me. Wish me luck - please!

Good luck. Andrea, huh? Nice set....
Bill Cahill

Thanks Bill. Yeah I like the Andrea stuff. I've got 4 different Andrea TV's plus a bunch of their radios. The VK scares me a bit as I picked it up in Virginia and it was stored in an outside unheated shed.

Bruce is right.

"Sir, step away from the Television Set!"

You have to take your mind away from it awhile, then, something will come to the fore, and, you'll go at it with a new game plan.

That's what I do when I'm stymied...

LJB

That break is starting to pay of hah?

Yep, mehbe it is....
Bill

Wow

Do you have replacements?

Yep. I've already replaced them.

Hmmm. Wonder where my test picture tube is.....
Bill Cahill

Christ, the FIRST thing I did with my 630 TS is Check All the Tubes...

LJB

Not that I'm a Rocket Surgeon, or anything...

Don't feel too bad, Bill. I'm the one who spent nearly seven hours troubleshooting a Power Supply before finding out the unit was unplugged from the wall. (In my defense, the two plugs and cords looked IDENTICAL....)

Judging by that list of dead "bottles," I'll bet you get some signs of life with the next "Power Up" session. But considering the list of baddies, the nearly dead 5U4 would certainly limit the Power Supply Voltages you were dealing with, the 6J6 would have nearly killed the tuner performance, but the BIG killer is that "aired out" 6AU6. And isn't it a good thing you checked that 6BG6? You also mentioned earlier that you were getting *some* activity in the Audio area, but not much. The weak 6K6 would explain that. And finding out that BOTH vertical tubes are dead may have saved you a WEEK of hassles! (lol) I think I would have a couple of 12AU7's handy once you get a raster.

To me, I would guess that this set was used as the "family TV" until it was *just about* "used up." Didn't you mention finding a BIG fuse in the set? The shorted 6BG6 might have been blowing fuses. The dead vertical section (or a new set with a bigger screen) probably put the set out to pasture. (I'm guessing that the 6AU6 was damaged during storage.) The rest of the tubes sound like they lived full lives.

Here's hoping that success is just around the corner!

Bill

Don't feel bad, we've all had those sort of experiences even when we should know better. It happens.

The steps I follow and recommend on a project like this are...

Check the CRT and decide if I should continue.

Visually (and with my nose) inspect the yoke, flyback, power transformer and rectifier tubes, and any other major show stopper parts... Decide if I should continue.

TEST ALL TUBES and replace bad ones with new TESTED ones.

Connect some form of antenna (piece of wire) and carefully power the set up, preferably with a variac, keeping one eye on the rectifier tube(s). If any fire or sparks fly in the rectifier tubes or they begin to overheat, pull the plug immediately and try to reform the filter capacitors enough to test the set. Since this involves pulling the chassis, inspect for obviously failed small components and replace them if critical. Then power the set up again, keeping an eye on the rectifier tubes, horizontal output tube plate, and electrolytic capacitor temperatures. The purpose of this is to get operation enough to find out what I have and prove out the yoke, flyback, etc. before spending a lot of time and money.

If all goes well, then its time to recap, replace all out of tolerance resistors, and evaluate again. This step will fix a lot of problems that when combined may make troubleshooting difficult. This is restoration, not repair of a single failure. Repairs, like TV shops did because of a show-stopping failure during the sets normal service life, is easier so try to get back to that point first.

Now troubleshoot any remaining problems. In sets this old, there may still be more than one problem, but at least you are not fighting 20 out of tolerance components at this point and the remaining issues are more clearly defined.

I am going to start on my Philco Predicta this winter.
I might try to do the same as Bill as I sit here reading his posts cheering him on!!! Go Bill Go!!!!

Yep,
I ended up replacing the CRT socket wiring on my 8TS30 with stuff off of a junker also. All the insulation was stiff and falling off of the original wires.

On reforming the electrolytics, it isn't always possible and I don't consider it a long-term solution anyway. If I can't reform enough, I'll just cut the shorted cap out of the circuit and temporarily jumper a substitute in. After "reforming" enough that the rectifier tubes will allow startup, the caps may still show a temperature rise indicating that failure is just around the corner. My goal is generally just not to put much into the set until I have a a decent enough raster or horizontal line to know that all the major components and CRT are good. I generally won't operate it for very long like this, maybe 5 minutes at a time, carefully monitored for signs of anything overheating or arcing.