I picked one of these up a couple of days ago. There was a thread with pics about the related L6X38T (James Bond radio) here:
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/vie ... ?p=1355374When you look at the two radios from the front, it is very hard to see any difference. I tried to use the schematic for the L6X38T and discovered that they are not quite the same. The L6X38T/54 schematic was found free on the web, albeit in Dutch. I ended up having to buy the 22RL798/44 schematic and I was then able to compare them.
The L6X38T was from the mid-60s. The 22RL798 was from the late 60's and represents an updated (if only slightly) circuit.
I wanted to note the differences. On the outside, the backpanels are noticably different. The L6X38T has a straight line multi-pin socket for the Phono connection. The 22RL798 has a second DIN connector just like the tape connector on both units. The L6X38T has a connector for an external speaker that is not present on the 22RL798. Finally, the L6X38T has a retractable earphone that seats into the rear panel. The 22RL798 just has the earphone jack.
Inside the radio, the radio sections look identical. The difference is the audio amp. Here, the first stage is the same but the rest is completely different. The L6X38T uses a transformer coupled push-pull type of design while the 22RL798 uses a direct coupled complementary-symmetry design.
Finally, a note about accessing the innards. It is not obvious how to get into the set but the 22RL798 manual had directions for this. You start by removing the rear cover. Simple with 4 screws but it might not be obvious that you also need to undo the screw that sits between the two whip antennas. Once the back is off, you can service the amp on the right side by removing the screws and folding the board up. I only had to disconnect the little tubular decoupling cap that ties to the chassis ground and I was able to replace all of the electrolytics. The ESR meter said almost all were dead and the audio was weak and distorted. Replacing the caps did the trick. You then need to clean the push-switches which means you have to access them. It turns out that the front panel with the speaker attached swings up on hinges if you know where the magic screws are located. First you have to remove the battery box. It is pretty obvious with a bunch of screws on the connector panel and then four inside the box itself. Then, after the battery box is out and looking at the back of the set, you need to remove the screws in the lower left and lower right. These are recessed way in there and the one on the right is hard to get back in. Then, about midway on the left and right edges you will spot two more identical screws. There is a notch in the amp board that lets you reach the one on the right but you will have to remove the amp board to get that one back in. After those 4 screws are out, you can flip the front panel up after removing the front knobs. It takes some gentle nudges (I pushed on the back of the speaker) and you have some interference with the pushbuttons but it goes pretty easy. It takes some extra effort to get it closed again because of the pushbuttons.
There are a few electros on the radio board. I left those alone since the radio seems to work OK. Pretty good sounding radio, especially on FM. I can hear some distortion on AM. Not bad enough to make me want to open this beast up again. I'll leave that for another day. Now I need to go buy some more Excedrin. Hopefully this info will save someone a headache some day.
