Looking for advice on safe cleaners and lubes for bandswitches. Lube points specific to the 300 bandswitches would be great too.

I haven't posted in awhile since I have the NC300 working like new thanks to advice given here. I have been lurking but can't post much since I'm at a beginner level for repairs.

Anyways I have RS contact and head cleaner but holding off using it on the bandswitches. I read Deoxit is best but can't get it here in Canada plus it comes in different "flavors" that makes it confusing too.

Oh.. they do have Deoxit at guitar shops here but it's cleaner/lube combined.

Whatever you use, avoid soaking the wafers with the stuff. You will regret it if you do!

A little bitty tiny drop applied with a small tipped screwdriver to each contact point only.

That said, Deoxit is OK.

Again, remember, less is best.

Thanks for the reply U.D.

It's working so well I hate to touch it but this is considered routine maintenance that I put off. Getting at some of the contact points will be a bugger because of coils and components. I didn't want to use the wrong type of cleaner on it.

Now if I could only find an SX-28 to resell. I have been paying attention.

You're welcome!

Using a cleaner with a lube should keep the contacts from corroding.

Again, use sparingly, only on each contact. -I know, takes a long time to do but is something you do only once every few years!

Good luck with that 28!

It also depends on what you are cleaning off. Dust and debris can be blown off gently with compressed air. Watch not to disturb any air-tuned coil spacings or break thin litz wires.
De-dusters are sold in an aerosol can if you don't have compressed air. Getting any big stuff off first is a good idea.
Some solvents that claim to be safe for plastics, sometimes aren't. Be careful.
Keep any unintended cleaners/solvents away from painted surfaces or clear plastic lenses. Even some 'mild' glass cleaners can damage lenses and finishes.
Watch when cleaning variable caps and trimmers. They can be de-tuned by some solvents. Gentle blowing with air is good on these. The cap wiper contacts can take a drop of deoxit.
Some solvents leave behind a residue when dried. While not particularly harmful in most cases, the cleaned part is not left 100% clean.
The auto parts stores usually have CRC QD/Electro-motive Electronic cleaner (or equivalent) and a store-brand brake cleaner that work well in most applications, its available in most states and gives the most bang for the buck.
Deoxit has been a good chemical to finish with. As stated, a little drop on the end of a jewelers screwdriver is all that you need. The needle dropper bottle is the most economical deoxit buy. The aerosol can is wasteful and too much deoxit is bad. Although oxidation and corrosion won't form, dirt will stick to contact oil.

Sprayed DeOxit will soak into phenolic and create a conductive path at tube level B+. Some will tell you it has to be given a few days to evaporate, Im not that patient. The only ceramic wafers in the NC-300 is the HFO and there a micro drop works well it you apply and rotate the switch a few times for each section. Also a drop up top at the variable cap ground wipers.

I like to start with a blast or two of brake cleaner to clean away the grime and then use an actual contact cleaner. An application of Tarn-X on a Q Tip is good for removing silver sulphide tarnish which is an insulator and creates noisy and intermittent switching. Flush with the brake cleaner.

Do not get Tarn-X soaking into phenolic wafers either and brake cleaner can affect some plastics.

Just go slow and easy.

Carl

Go with De-Oxit D100L. The best used to be Cramolin R100L but it was discontinued. Caig suggests the D100L as a replacement.

It is available in Canada at Parts Connexion in Burlington http://www.partsconnexion.com/cleaners_deoxit_d.html
and out west at RP Electronics. http://www.rpelectronics.com/d100l-2-de ... -caig.html

A little goes a long ways. I still have some R100 as well as D100.

Thanks Bruce, Carl and Wally! That helps out a lot, I feel confident now to finish this project.

I wish I could help others out too but I was in over my head a few times with the 300 myself. It was a wakeup call. Thank goodness for good schematics under those circumstances. I would not recommend this radio for beginners in troubleshooting problems.