I’ve read several threads on this forum that recommended De-ox contact spray cleaner to solve certain problems such as static, control functions and basically just a good start to cleaning up a recently purchased radio/stereo. I have a 1971 Zenith model 966 with sensor-touch controls. As recommended, I plan to use the de-ox to spray and clean the switches on the control panel and the inner workings as well. It has both a radio and stereo. Is there any components or circuits, etc. that I should not spray and/or allow the de-ox to come into contact with. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

The recommended procedure is to only allow very minute amount (less than one drop) into areas that needs cleaning. Directly spray into any area only if you have no other choice. There are two things to watch for: 1. some type of cleaners would damage plastic (test first even if label says "safe." 2. the liquid woud seep into areas that cause electrical shorts (allow sufficient time for it to evaporate completely)..

This comes up quite regularly---D5 is NOT a general-purpose cleaner. The most common usage is--would you believe--DeOxidizing things---like silver-plated contacts.

rotary switch contacts are the ONLY place I would use it---and then, as already stated, only sparingly.

For controls, toggle switches, and just about anything else---I use WD-40. For general cleaning, Isopropyl alcohol.(IPA)----Many of my sets see only these 2 chemicals---plus oil and grease.

DeoxIT is a brand name...

DeoxIT® Products . . . Which Product, Which Spray do I Use?
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.66/.f

Which Deoxit→ site:antiqueradios.com
https://www.google.com/search?q=Which+D ... radios.com

Greg.

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I stopped using spray cans years ago. c1980
If and when I apply magic liquids to a radio, I use a toothpick or inject with a hypodermic syringe.

If you insist in flooding your component with any liquid product, blast it away with an air-line and wait 24hrs before applying power.

I know... Patience is a virtue...
works for me!

Greg.

Caig products are way overpriced, IMHO, but opinions are a dime a dozen. Sure sure, the "secret sauce" that isn't listed on the MSDS makes all the difference. Hype train full steam ahead. Others have claimed to copy DeoxIT almost exactly (minus odorizers), and even got into some trouble doing so (trademark issues), but the "equivalent" non-aerosol can be mixed for pennies on the dollar.

For general contact cleaning, I've used CRC QD (Quick Dry) for many years. It's not the cheapest, but is readily available (even Walmart carries the stuff). I've used many others, but always come back to CRC for best performance in a plastic-safe formula. Just my personal experience...
Of course, if you're wanting to leave behind a lube film, you'll have to make sure to use the correct product, as a lot of them just clean but don't lube. I've also used many different "tuner" cleaners that leave behind light lube; meh.. those have all performed about the same for me, so no clear winner with these.

As for a general WASH, a lot of people like the MG stuff, Blue Shower (Tech Spray), and Electro Wash (Chemtronics). There are tons of them out there, some more plastic-friendly than others, and some can be used on energized equipment. I've used just about all of them over the decades. I can't really recommend one over the other in this department, since they've all performed about the same for me, in terms of cleaning ability. Some have left more residue than others, but it mostly comes down to which smells worse (some I've used drove me right out of my workspace they were so pungent), which is worse to BREATHE, and cost.

As a learning noobie, I have noticed a few threads recently where DeOxit type products (cleaner with a little lubricant) were not recommended.

I want to know, what is so bad about DeOxit type of products?

Are there situations in cleaning switches and controls where DeOxit type of products are just fine to use and others you want to completely avoid?

If so, what are these situations/components?

Same here.

Thanks to all for the advice. Part of me wants to go ahead and use the De-oxit and part of me now doesn’t want to spray anything into the unit at all. I’ll definitely look into the cleaners that Vin tageman brought up. I take it then, if you have De-oxit on hand, that it can’t hurt to use it as a cleaner and lube.

In general, there is nothing wrong with DeOxit product, unless it is the cost just mentioned. The issue here was specific to D5.
For me, almost everything can be done with WD40, IPA, mineral spirits, and Simple Green.

D5 is not intended as a lube. Again, there are many different things made by Deoxit.

Pixillany, I like your idea of WD-40. If I were to use it to spray into my toggles and especially my slider controls directly through my consoles control panel would it leave a film or begin to get gunky. Also, can it affect other components or circuits. Just curious if you’ve experienced any of that and if so what to without for. Thanks.

I've never had it harm anything. That said, don't use any chemical to excess...do it for a specific reason.
As I understand it, WD-40 is basically kerosene plus paraffin. It is not intended for lubrication, but does do some...

It also excels at removing labels....

re: WD-40.. It's great for things like hinges, garage door rollers and such, but I've never used it in electronics, because of the gummy gunk I find in other applications a while after it was used.
I can tell you from experience it will loosen contact cement, and I also use it to do just that for cleaning up accidents during laminate work (shelving, etc.). It will also destroy some adhesives inside electronics gizmos.

I don't know what kind of gear you'll be working on, bu keep in mind that sliders often have felt stuck on the outside of the controls and/or on the back of the front escutcheon to keep dust/debris out of the controls themselves. In such cases, you don't want to use a product that will lube/saturate the felt strips. Some of the cleaners can dissolve the adhesive film that holds the felt strips in place, for one thing.
If you must spray into these controls, I recommend using a non-residue spray — after testing to make sure it won't destroy similar adhesives — to clean the control tracks, then a non-aerosol lube with a precision applicator stuck down in the control. Use a modest amount of each product.
It's obviously easier to see what you're doing, what you're dealing with and manipulate applicator tools with control boards out of the chassis, but you have to be especially careful when spraying from outside a front panel/escutcheon. Some "safe" sprays will leave very difficult to remove streaks on anodized aluminum, also. Don't ask.

Sometimes you can control spray can output by varying pressure from the finger, but sometimes BAM! they spray like a freakin' firehose, especially when new, and it goes everywhere, leaving the operator startled and regretful. If you have an already used can that you know for sure can be made to send a weak shot where desired, then you could get away with a residue spray, but you still sometimes need to worry about that felt and contact with the escutcheon.

Good luck.

most slide pots need a very heavy lube or they will get sticky ! WD 40 will do, but not always. WD40 will work in most any rotational pot (ie tone, volume, etc) but never use it on a band switch ! The lube will short the high freqs quite often.
Use a very evaporative cleaner there, such as D5. I use and sell the Puretronics line, it seems to work as well as the others at less then half the price.
Mark Oppat

Watch enough YouTube videos, and they will have you believing this stuff is restoration in a can. Yes, it is good, but yes, it is insanely overpriced.

There has to be a happy medium somewhere- I would never put WD-40 anywhere near my radio sets.

If you have the 1971 966, the only mechanical switches on the tuner chassis are the FM-AFC and the on-off switches. Everything is switched electronically (AM-FM-Phono-and tape for inputs, and mono-stereo and ext-bass are toggled on/off). It's really quite the circuitry, but it works. Very nice console.
Steve

I have used WD40 for many years, no issues.

Caig found they had a gold mine back in the 80's with DeOxit (GC had the similar DeOxid at a cheaper price, so there was confusion between the two similar products due to name). While it was good, it was not the be-all and end all but somehow the audio community got hooked on it. Well, then Caig started calling nearly anything they made "DeOxit", so they had "Deoxit Gold" DeOxit Faderlube, and on and on. All way way overpriced. Good stuff , though others have good stuff too... as has been mentioned.
Mark Oppat

I use WD40 whenever I need to either lubricate something, like tuning capacitor bearings, or clean contacts within a volume control, or it's switch.

A very common problem with the General Electric 675 series Transistor sets is the four pole on/off switch not making positive contact. Four poles because the set uses both a nine and 13.5 volt supply. By squirting WD40 into the VC slot, holding the control face up, and rotating the switch on and off numerous times, I've successfully repaired the lack of connections many times, as one example.

Also I'm too tight to pay the ridiculous price for DeOxit.

+1 on not using just any old thing around HF.

My choice for most pots and switches is GC's "Tunerlub" (edit: spelling), a grease made for HF applications. They discontinued it, but fortunately I have an almost full tube. Dunno what I'll start using once that's gone, but I use it sparingly, so it should last a while.


Agreed. It's decent bang for the buck. I still have some left in my 3600 can and a lot left in my 3500 can. Fry's is the local supplier around here.
Folks looking to try this product line take note: the "extra strength" 3600 IS aggressive. It will haze softer plastics and melt some kinds of label paints.

You got that right ! I have all those versions here, sell them at the shows. Good stuff and WAY cheaper than Caig.
AND, I have that "Tuner Lube" grease too ! two tubes, and I use very little every year. Great for pots.

Some old spray cleaners designed for TV tuners will actually eat carbon pads. i think it actually dissolves the adhesive they used mixed with the carbon.
Mark Oppat