Hi Ted<P> German schematics aren't hard to read. It's finding them on CD's that's hard. I'll email you Grundig 2043.<P><P>------------------<BR>Norm

Hi Ted<P>I sent you the correct schematic (3D). As you will see, this radio has FM. You can also determin, if it's an export model: if the FM goes up to 108 MHz, it's an US-export-model.<P>The selenium rectifiers used in these radios were originally made by Siemens & Halske and are square, flat metal boxes. These fail rarely.<P>The voltage switch was common as we had different voltages in Europe at that time.<P>Kind regards from Switzerland, Walter Haring<P>------------------<BR>

<BR> Ted,<P> Don't let those radios scare you. They're really not that bad to work on. Just a bit different from the U.S. variety, and a bit more delicate. I love 'em.<P> If you want to swap out the EM85,<BR> the EM81 will work fine.<BR> There will be a different display pattern than the original tube, but looks OK.<P> EM85 to EM81<P> move +250v from 6 to 9<BR> tie 7 & 9 together<P> move cathode from 3 to 2<P> eye closing range:<P> EM81 - 0- -10v<P> EM85 - 1- -14v<P> (from my notes)<P> However, if you choose to do a "proper" resto, where the customer isn't into the "as cheap as possible to get it to play" scenario, I can point you to a source of a "reasonably" priced NOS EM85. E-mail if you want.<P> I suggest to change out the Siemens "matchbook" rectifier bridge (or the black "AEG" style can,) if repairing for someone on a commercial basis, especially.<P> On those, what appears good today has a nasty habit of going into "meltdown," tomorrow, so to speak.<BR> I restuff both types. Looks good and eliminates extra clutter on _some_ of those type radios. <BR> ("Come-backs are hell-")<P> Usually a dual 50+50 mfd. @ 350V electrolytic in most of them.<BR> (I'm not familiar with your exact model)<BR> I restuff those too.<BR> They may test OK, but- at close to 50 yrs of age, the hermetic seals have been known to start leaking.<P> That, and _all_ paper caps as well.<BR> _Especially the usual audio coupling cap.<P> ("Beware of paper Eros!")- or the fat blue ceramic coated ones too.<BR> When they go leaky, they _really_ go leaky, I've found. <P> Test 'em if you doubt.<BR> If no cap leakage tester, better to replace.<P> (Often repeated advice here.)<P> Have Fun!<BR> <BR> Den<P> <BR><P>------------------<BR>