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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Wed 19, 2017 5:35 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
Grain Filler question - I am going to use grain filler on the cabinet. I'll be practicing on the board first. Is this sequence a good one:
- stain the wood - minwax red mahogany (as already on the test board)
- spray with clear gloss lacquer, to seal the wood and protect it from being colored by the grain filler
- apply grain filler - as many times as needed to fill all pores (likely Mohawk natural, but could be Mohawk medium walnut if the natural is not dark enough)
- apply more stain - to stain the filler, esp. if I use the natural. This should not affect the already stained mahogany veneer as it is sealed by the gloss lacquer, right?
- begin the finish gloss lacquer coats
Sound good?


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
I wish I'd read "apply the glue to the substrate only, not the veneer" beforehand. In any event I got it flattened out, rolled and clamped. We'll see if it worked out tomorrow. In the top photo you can see the 1/16 maple veneer, which I glued over the original planks, already dried and in place. The 1/32 mahogany veneer is going on over the maple.


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Curled Venner.jpg
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Flattened Veneer.jpg
Flattened Veneer.jpg [ 175.8 KiB | Viewed 402 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Sun 23, 2017 8:37 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 2149
Location: England
Its hard for me to comment specifically on your finishing approach as I don't do all the steps that many US restorers do. I prep the veneer (sand , fill wounds etc) and then grain fill (more than once, depends on the wood) with already darkened filler (thinned with stain). I'm not sure that the filler I use will absorb stain well once dry so I would check yours out first. Then its flat out and then I may use (most likely) a thinned stain wash and see how it looks. Possibly if not dark enough it may get another stain coat.

Then I would use lacquer and depending on what I want use oil paint (artists oil paint method) and that's it. I don't use sealers or shellac washes and have been told off' :) for that. The posters could well be right but I had a problem once using Sanding Sealer and so have always kept the mix of layers to minium and stick with what I have found to work before.

The point of sealing before using dark grain filler is that it could muddy the surrounding veneer and you end up, on a vey light cabinet, with it being too dark. For me it always gets sanded off, although a little darkening of the surroundings may happen, but I'm yet to have this as a problem. In your case with such a dark result this would be no problem at all.

Here's a cabinet finished as above and its come out spot on the colour I wanted and no sealer used between wood prep and grain filling. Some might say "but thats not a really light cabinet anyway" so I may try the sealer coat method some time if I need to. I can understand the theory.

Attachment:
Cabinet.jpg
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Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Mon 24, 2017 1:10 am 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
Thanks Gary. I'll keep all that in mind. Beautiful work on that cabinet.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Tue 25, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Mar Sun 19, 2017 11:52 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Memphis, TN
Radio Fixer wrote:
Here's a cabinet finished as above and its come out spot on the colour I wanted.
Gary


OK, I'll bite. What are we looking at in that photo?

_________________
GE J-64 first restore underway. GE J-105 awaits.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: Apr Wed 26, 2017 7:59 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 2149
Location: England
Its a German Philips D57 from around 38 and an excellent performer. Playing it for breakfast listening at the moment. It has actually had a second refinish as I didn't use Mohawk Tone Toner for the black top and it got fine cracks. Now it is is perfect and I'm thrilled with it.

More here if you want a read:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=301899

Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: May Thu 04, 2017 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
The other day I stained the TV. After much reading I decided not to use wood conditioner - the effect seemed like it would be minor on Mahogany. I put on MinWax Red Mahogany for a minute or three and wiped it off.

The results are pretty good. The new veneer looks great, and the old wood, especially the remaining side of old veneer, with such an interesting grain pattern, looks good.

There are some interesting aspects though. For starters it is a bit darker than I'd thought it would be, but it's still a great color and will finish up nicely I think. More interesting are the patterns that have turned up in the old wood. They are like tiger stripes and blotches. They are not leftover old finish, they seem to be either in the grain of the wood, or perhaps the result of how it was originally milled. I looked back at older photos of the set and whether or not these were visible on the original finish I can't tell - the finish was too shot. Some of the reference photos of these sets do show a sort of blotchy finish, though. The photos below highlight the effects - they are not quite as stark when viewed with the naked eye.

My plan was to put a little local stain on the veneer patches (see the corners on top), as they are lighter than the surrounding old wood. Then put on a coat of clear lacquer, grain fill, then perhaps stain again if the grain filler is too light. Because of the underlying lacquer it would darken only the filler, but not the veneer itself. But I'm wondering now if I should attempt to de-blotch the thing. Local application of stain? Glaze? Toned lacquer (I have a can of Colortone vintage amber)?
What would you suggest?


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File comment: Point of no return coming up.
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File comment: In a poorly lit garage, looks a bit darker than it actually is.
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initial stain 1.jpg
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Initial stain 8.jpg
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Initial stain 14.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: May Fri 19, 2017 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
After a good coat (3 passes total, lighter to heavier) of Deft Sanding Sealer, a week's dry time, and some light sanding, it was time for the grain filler. I used Mohawk Mahogany. It was thick - somewhere between pancake batter and frosting. And that was after much stirring and mixing.
The new veneer sections took a couple of applications, the original wood only one. Perhaps the pores were pretty well filled with old finish and such already. After rubbing it in and scraping it off, and later a wipe with mineral-spirits-soaked paper towels, the surfaces look nice and smooth.


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Grain filler - what a mess.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: May Tue 23, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 31, 2015 10:06 pm
Posts: 357
I've experimented with the decals on my test board. The decals from Radio Daze are very good, and on very thin decal material. I cut a triangle of clear off the sheet, dunked it in water, and put it onto the test board. I blotted off the extra water. I used Micro Sol, like I do with decals on the model cars I build, and the results are amazing. I left the left half as is, and put Micro Sol on the right half. As you can see, the right half of the triangle decal is invisible on the wood. If you don't know about Micro Sol, you can get it at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Setting-Solution-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O9K5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495556160&sr=1-1&keywords=micro+sol


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Micro Sol Test.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Extreme Cabinet Restoration
PostPosted: May Tue 23, 2017 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 2149
Location: England
How does Micro Sol like cellulose lacquer over it?

thanks Gary


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