Finished my first cabinet.

Salval · **Joined:** Feb Sun 19, 2012 2:51 am **Posts:** 475

It has taken me a while but I finally finished the cabinet for my first restoration. It's a General Electric LC-628. I'm not 100% pleased with it but I think I did pretty decent for a beginner. I might have stripped it if it wasn't for the photo finish and the decals.

bigblue72 · **Posted:** Apr Fri 06, 2012 9:31 pm

Nice job, hopefully you have many more in your future to share before and afters with us. I am currently working on mine also, a small Howard console. I've decided to concentrate on consoles because there seems to be a megaton of cheap, sad sacks out there to learn woodworking on. I'll have to get my camera out for some before and afters of my own.

Triton46 · **Joined:** Mar Wed 21, 2012 2:11 pm **Posts:** 52

Nice job! How did you repair the broken grill? What process/materials did you use to get those results?

Salval · **Joined:** Feb Sun 19, 2012 2:51 am **Posts:** 475

Triton46 wrote:

Nice job! How did you repair the broken grill? What process/materials did you use to get those results?

I intentionally broke it apart the rest of the way. I then put it all back together again using liquid nails. It took me longer to finish the grille than anything else.

Triton46 · **Joined:** Mar Wed 21, 2012 2:11 pm **Posts:** 52

Very nice. What process/materials for refinishing the veneer?

Salval · **Joined:** Feb Sun 19, 2012 2:51 am **Posts:** 475

I used Howards Restor-a-finish and Minwax lacquer. I would have liked to strip it and start fresh but it has a strip of photo finish on it and I didn't want to ruin it.

glasdave · **Posted:** Apr Wed 11, 2012 11:31 am

Salval wrote:

Triton46 wrote:

Nice job! How did you repair the broken grill? What process/materials did you use to get those results?

I intentionally broke it apart the rest of the way. I then put it all back together again using liquid nails. It took me longer to finish the grille than anything else.

Very creative grill repair, thanks for the walk through.

magicclocks · **Joined:** Jan Tue 03, 2012 10:38 pm **Posts:** 546

That looks great. Howards does save the day sometimes. If you have a good base that brings it back to life
Do you plan on recovering the platter. If so leave the sides and about 1/8 inch on top un covered and paint black gloss. I like the way that looks

Lynnster1952 · **Joined:** Feb Sat 18, 2012 4:00 am **Posts:** 39

Salval wrote:

I used Howards Restor-a-finish and Minwax lacquer. I would have liked to strip it and start fresh but it has a strip of photo finish on it and I didn't want to ruin it.

Nice job!

Did you apply Restor-A-Finish before or after the Lacquer? (I assume after?) I tried Restor-A-Finsh on the damaged top of my console phonograph, but the damage was thru the finish in one area, so had to sand entire top down to bare wood. I'm about to apply (gel) stain, then using shellac, topped by several coats of Minwax brushing lacquer. After that, hand sanding,pumice stone abrasives, & ending with rottenstone. (via YouTube step-by-step method used on a handmade chessboard that looks like it has a glass top!)

I'm interested in what others are doing/have done! I'm a novice so testing on a small table first. I tried Minwax Tung Oil Finish & hated result, so trying the YouTube method, but might stop where he says (you can stop here if you just want a satin finish) but after seeing him do the hand-sanding and then the pumice abrasives and rottenstone, I'm amazed by the glass-like finish he got. I'm not sure my 68" long mid-century modern cabinet needs that glassy look but I'm tempted!

If you want to check it out, put in "chessboard" or "Steve Marlin chessboard" on You Tube. He says he's not pro, but after watching his painstaking methods and the resultant (handmade) chessboard, he sure looks like a pro to me. He admits some of his methods aren't the way the pros do it, but he likes his results, and I do too!

Lynn

fixinmyphono · **Posted:** Apr Sun 22, 2012 9:20 pm

Looks great nice job!

Salval · **Joined:** Feb Sun 19, 2012 2:51 am **Posts:** 475

Lynnster1952 wrote:

Salval wrote:

I used Howards Restor-a-finish and Minwax lacquer. I would have liked to strip it and start fresh but it has a strip of photo finish on it and I didn't want to ruin it.

Nice job!

Did you apply Restor-A-Finish before or after the Lacquer? (I assume after?) I tried Restor-A-Finsh on the damaged top of my console phonograph, but the damage was thru the finish in one area, so had to sand entire top down to bare wood. I'm about to apply (gel) stain, then using shellac, topped by several coats of Minwax brushing lacquer. After that, hand sanding,pumice stone abrasives, & ending with rottenstone. (via YouTube step-by-step method used on a handmade chessboard that looks like it has a glass top!)

I'm interested in what others are doing/have done! I'm a novice so testing on a small table first. I tried Minwax Tung Oil Finish & hated result, so trying the YouTube method, but might stop where he says (you can stop here if you just want a satin finish) but after seeing him do the hand-sanding and then the pumice abrasives and rottenstone, I'm amazed by the glass-like finish he got. I'm not sure my 68" long mid-century modern cabinet needs that glassy look but I'm tempted!

If you want to check it out, put in "chessboard" or "Steve Marlin chessboard" on You Tube. He says he's not pro, but after watching his painstaking methods and the resultant (handmade) chessboard, he sure looks like a pro to me. He admits some of his methods aren't the way the pros do it, but he likes his results, and I do too!

Lynn

I used Restor-a-finish first then went over it with lacqeur.

Ken G · **Posted:** Apr Tue 24, 2012 2:41 am

I used Restor-a-finish first then went over it with lacqeur.

It looks real nice . Better than a total restrip . Its a long hard job to get the grain filled after a whole strip job .

BTW ... wood stain is cheaper than howards .

Finished my first cabinet.

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