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 Post subject: Universal Changer Stand
PostPosted: Jun Wed 13, 2018 8:17 pm 

Joined: Jun Sun 15, 2014 11:04 pm
Posts: 922
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
While rebuilding the changer in our Capehart, this stand evolved as an easy way to set up and access all points on the 16E changer. The height is such that the motor/transmission assembly, and the power distribution box can be installed beneath the changer. In addition, by changing the length of the blocks at each post, other changers can be supported on the stand. By choosing the appropriate block, and holes in the blocks, nearly any changer can be installed for repairs on this stand. There may be some exceptions, such as the early Sparks Ensemble, but that is yet to be tested.

The material is ¾ inch thick particle board (could be plywood), and 1X2 inch sticks of wood (in reality they are 3/4X1 ½ inches). Most of the dimensions are shown, any missing can either be extrapolated, or they can be approximated. The blocks “A” and “B” are meant to be the top parts of the posts. The “A” blocks work for the Capehart 16E and the “B” blocks can be used with smaller footprint changers, by choosing the proper hole location in the block, and by rotating the block to a suitable position. Those blocks are not meant to be glued into position, a single 2 ½ inch screw holds each of them in place. The height of the single post assembly is the same as the other two, however, for using it to support the Capehart 16E changer, it must have a ¼ inch spacer added to the top of the “A” block to make the changer perfectly level.

The set of two posts is glued together using Elmer’s Carpenter’s Glue. In addition, there are large finishing nails through the sides and other places to aid in strengthening and holding. The holes for those nails should be drilled through first to prevent splitting of the boards and sticks. The single post is done in a similar way, except there are two screws through the stick to the triangle shaped support. There are seven 1 ¼ inch screws holding the two post sets down to the base.

The dots represent holes drilled through for mounting purposes. If something is missing or doesn't make sense, contact me for corrections. Cheers, Russie

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