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capzapper
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Post subject: Need Substitute for Those T-Pin Back Fasteners Posted: Jun Mon 28, 2010 7:14 pm |
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Joined: Jul Sat 11, 2009 1:47 am Posts: 114 Location: Cal
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Invariably I’ll come across a radio with one or more of those diabolical “T” shaped back fastener pins missing. Using screws only invites disaster, as the Bakelite receptor hole in the cabinet often has no threads, and will crack. Some sellers gouge as much as a buck a piece for these things that probably cost a penny a dozen to produce back in the day, and I wont spring for that much just on principle. There’s just GOTTA be a quick&dirty cheap substitute for the Tpin that will look at home on a 1940’s / 50’s set and I figured this would be the place to ask. Any ideas??
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Brian McAllister
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Mon 28, 2010 8:00 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 2557 Location: Sarasota FL USA
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Quote: I wont spring for that much just on principle
What principle is that? Do you not pay today's prices for Tomatoes, because in 1949 they were 5 Lbs for 25 cents?
In 1949 that size Tri-mount sold for 40 cents for eighteen of them, when they were mass-produced and plentiful. Today you resent paying someone who has gone to the trouble to locate some that you may buy, or who has gone to the trouble to tool-up for small quantity production of a small demand item. Why is that? People who make such things available to us are not making a fortune. If most hobbyists took that attitude, stuff like that would be tossed into the trash, or not be reproduced, making our hobby much more difficult.
_________________ Brian McAllister Sarasota FL http://oldtech.net
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capzapper
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Mon 28, 2010 9:38 pm |
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Joined: Jul Sat 11, 2009 1:47 am Posts: 114 Location: Cal
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Maybe it’s me, the tightfisted cheapskate that I am, that takes great pleasure in creating a workable substitute for anything that has to be purchased. I’ve found the radio hobby has an absurd scale of expenses when the entire radio can often be gotten for a song, and the missing tubes & parts inside can set you back hundreds if you’re not careful. This past weekend I spent several hours crafting dial covers for 3 sets that needed them, all coming out perfectly. Yes, I could have purchased them at a modest cost, but that expense just stuck in my craw, and I had the time on my hands. Now I have 3 forms that I can quite possibly use in the future, and the knowledge that I can knock em out in a few moments next time. Guess I was looking for a similar “DIY” solution for the Tpin. Not trying to put anyone out of business, just enjoying the hobby and a sense of self reliance. Many thanks to those who shared their knowledge on forming dial covers, hopefully someone has a solution to back fasteners.
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Tony Wells
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Mon 28, 2010 9:54 pm |
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Joined: Oct Sun 18, 2009 5:38 am Posts: 3271 Location: Tyler, Texas 75707-4212
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All I\'ll say is: piano wire and needle nose pliers. Use your imagination.
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oldmarine
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Mon 28, 2010 10:42 pm |
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Joined: Oct Sun 11, 2009 1:43 am Posts: 197 Location: Long Beach, California; 90808
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capzapper
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Tue 29, 2010 12:30 am |
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Joined: Jul Sat 11, 2009 1:47 am Posts: 114 Location: Cal
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I like that solution of tapping threads. I just bet you could take a piece of brass tubing of proper diameter and tap inner threads into it to receive a 2-56 or 4-40 screw. The threaded part of tube could then be cut off, dropped in, and be epoxied into the Bakelite holes like they belonged there. Just an idea, but outside fasteners still wouldn't look original.
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BOB BONCHAK
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Tue 29, 2010 2:50 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 1288 Location: SOUTHLAKE, TX, USA
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capzapper, et. al.
I agree with Brian's opinion.
Looks like someone is now producing good relica ones and asking .76/each.
Go to a good hardware store. It should have plastic panel fasteners of the correct diameter. Paint them bronze. They will not replicate original (have round heads), but work for me, and look good (who will know?). I have also used cotter pins. Hammer the round part down to a "T". Cut to length. Paint and install.
GrayLox: Sure would like more information about your piano wire method.
BOB
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hoffies2
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Post subject: Posted: Jun Wed 30, 2010 1:26 pm |
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Joined: Feb Thu 08, 2007 2:32 pm Posts: 7747 Location: USA
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I tap out the bakelite holes to 6-32 or 8-32 which ever size the hole is. Forget about the fasteners, screws don't pull out. On wood you can use wood screws with washers. Who will ever look at the back and say, "oh I see you didn't use the orginal fasteners" 
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Dean Huster
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Thu 15, 2010 8:09 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3189 Location: Harviell MO USA 63945 (12 miles S of Poplar Bluff)
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I've tapped many a Bakelite hole for screws and they don't break during tapping or after. I have thousands of screws to choose from and finding a 6-32 or 8-32 coppertone or brown screw works best for the brown Bakelite.
It's funny how some folks are so anal about things being original. In 1948, they would have done what worked and made changes so long as the customer was happy, the repair didn't look like sin and the radio worked. Sometimes we want to "fix" something that isn't original on the radio we just bought that's been there for the last 66 years. What's the point?
_________________ Dean, Electronics Curmudgeon Contributing editor emeritus in Poptronics magazine, R.I.P.
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Norm Leal
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Thu 15, 2010 8:19 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 28975 Location: Livermore, CA
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I found some split rivets at the hardware store. Split can be adjusted to fit the hole for original push pin. Works fine and doesn't cost much.
_________________ Norm
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Gary T. Lane
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Sun 18, 2010 6:10 pm |
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Joined: Sep Sat 06, 2008 6:17 pm Posts: 709 Location: Central Pa, 17044
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Ha, I know what your talking about..I looked my eyes out for them
T" push pins...Well here is what I used..A roofing nail and some of that RTV silicone gel on the shaft, when cured, ground off the round head to shape the T.. Cut off the nail with bolt cutters and stuck them in the hole to hold the back on...Works and looks great!
Gary
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blacksmith
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Sun 18, 2010 8:25 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 1003 Location: Shelby Township, MI 48316
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I used to make my own plastic dial covers, but I'd rather use my time to do other things. I now send out to Mark Palmquist to make them for me. While I wait for them I can get other things done, the cost isn't much, and when I come across a radio that has a cover that's difficult to make, I know that there's a guy who has more experience than me in making them, and since he finds it profitable, he will be there in the future when I need his expertise.
I've tried the plastic automotive trimounts, but the black plastic discs just look wrong. Same with the split rivets. Screw heads usually aren't wide enough to span the slot in many backs. Putting a washer under the head just makes it look worse.
Reproductions trimounts ARE available and the cost is reasonable in quantities. Why take the chance of breaking out a corner of your radio by tapping the hole. For a few bucks you can have a lifetime supply of them. No messing around with glue, taps, etc.
When you need one, reach into your parts drawer, take one out and push it into the hole. It's quick and makes your radio look original again.
Ed
_________________ Blacksmith
www.renovatedradios.com
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sofaslug
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Sun 18, 2010 9:27 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 13198 Location: Berkeley, CA 94709
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blacksmith wrote: I used to make my own plastic dial covers, but I'd rather use my time to do other things. I now send out to Mark Palmquist to make them for me. While I wait for them I can get other things done, the cost isn't much, and when I come across a radio that has a cover that's difficult to make, I know that there's a guy who has more experience than me in making them, and since he finds it profitable, he will be there in the future when I need his expertise.
I've tried the plastic automotive trimounts, but the black plastic discs just look wrong. Same with the split rivets. Screw heads usually aren't wide enough to span the slot in many backs. Putting a washer under the head just makes it look worse.
Reproductions trimounts ARE available and the cost is reasonable in quantities. Why take the chance of breaking out a corner of your radio by tapping the hole. For a few bucks you can have a lifetime supply of them. No messing around with glue, taps, etc.
When you need one, reach into your parts drawer, take one out and push it into the hole. It's quick and makes your radio look original again.
Ed
Ed --
Your site is a treasure. I've bought a bunch of your rubber mounts in various sizes and shapes over the years and tossed them into my parts drawer. When I need some I rummage through my collection and find something that will work, occasionally doing a little creative cutting if they're for a radio other than what they were designed for. In fact, I think I've used enough up that I have to order some more.
I don't know how you make all that stuff, but I'm glad you do.
Bob
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blacksmith
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Sun 18, 2010 9:47 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 1003 Location: Shelby Township, MI 48316
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Sofaslug,
Next time you find that you have to modify a washer or grommet for a radio, let me know and I'll make what you need. I'm always looking for other types to make.
Ed
_________________ Blacksmith
www.renovatedradios.com
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capzapper
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Post subject: Posted: Jul Tue 27, 2010 4:19 pm |
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Joined: Jul Sat 11, 2009 1:47 am Posts: 114 Location: Cal
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Thanks, All, for your helpful suggestions. I can envision cutting brass strips from shim stock and putting the strips into a simple bending / vice clamping fixture and knocking these suckers out like hotcakes. Will certainly post with details if I come up with something clever. This recessionary tightwad just ain't gonna part with more than a nickle apiece for these trivial pieces o'crap.
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adamc
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Post subject: Posted: Aug Mon 02, 2010 7:34 pm |
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Joined: Jul Wed 22, 2009 1:46 pm Posts: 2041 Location: Stalingrad, Connecticut
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_________________ ....
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The Trouble with doing nothing, is that you can't tell when you're finished...
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oldradioparts
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Post subject: Posted: Aug Mon 23, 2010 4:43 am |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 2872 Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
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I happen to know that Ed (Blacksmith) spent a LOT of time and well over $1000 of his cash getting those Trimounts back into production.
Its going to be many years before he breaks even !
But, Ed is always trying to find solutions to common restoration problems, and he is doing an amazing job. We need to support this as much as possible. Imagine if all these small time parts sources dried up. It can happen, easily.
Support them whenever you can.
Mark Oppat
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snogcel
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Post subject: Posted: Dec Wed 22, 2010 11:11 pm |
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 142 Location: Westminster, CO, USA
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I've had reasonable success replacing the pesky little "T" fasteners using a cotter pin, after first sticking it through an appropriately-sized washer. If need be the ends of the cotter pin can be spread apart a little so they'll bear against the plastic hole sides with some springy-ness. The washer, of course, is chosen to be large enough to hold the cardboard back panel, but not so large as to let the cotter pin pass through the center.
Good Luck!
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smokestuffer
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Post subject: Posted: Dec Fri 24, 2010 5:16 am |
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Joined: Sep Mon 27, 2010 3:30 am Posts: 244 Location: Calhoun, TN
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If I can buy 24 repros for 10 bucks, that's 42 cents a pop or enough for 6 radios for 10 bucks. If I go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy specialty fasteners from the hardware drawers, they are usually more expensive than that.
I'm cheaper than most folks, but I don't see the reason for all the moaning about a trivial piece of hardware, let alone bad-mouthing a forum member that produces them. There's no harm in rolling your own if you want to, I just don't get all the attitude.
_________________ Smokestuffer
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