The task I enjoy the least is dial cord stringing. Had one recently that was slipping. The cord and spring seemed to be in good condition so I was not about to undo the cord and replace the spring for more tension -- and run the risk of a total restringing. The alternative was simply replacing its idler pulley with one that was slightly larger. This was enough to remove the slack and the dial worked well. I know that there are purists among us who'd frown at this method, but it worked for me.

Have to agree that dialcording has to be one of the most thankless jobs around. It has tried my patience to the limit on more than one occasion where I simply had to walk away, wondering how repairmen "back in the day" made any money at all restringing these diabolical mechanisms as the frustrating moments tick along. Have even strung them up well, only to see them slip a few days later. There are many tricks to stringing, such as adding resin to the cord to prevent slippage, using different dia / textured cord, drive shaft abrasion for friction, etc, etc.

But the most critical of all is to have a clean, well lubed tuning cap. Also check the grommets under the tuner, if any. They need to be close to the original thickness and pliable. A little misalignment or resistance can drive you nuts.

I second all of these replies PLUS ensure that your dial cord pulley grooves are clean, as well as the tuning knob shaft where the dial cord rides-Gearhead

Yea I definitely HATE dialcord restringing!! I would almost enjoy the smell of a failed selenium rectifier over that!! I agree many times it needs a good cleaning, little crocus cloth, and some lube and oftentimes just too much friction for it to turn properly. I find usually if the spring has tension and the the dialcord is not sagging, I find ways of making it smoother in operation and usually does the trick!

I just did one on a Guild Country Belle, which was unique in that it had to be done with the chassis in the case. I think I'd prefer doing a full recap.

Before I go to the frustrating part I do the clean and lube as mentioned and then rub a little rosin on the cord. This usually eliminates slippage from a reasonably tight cord.

Carl

How did they used to do the dial stringing at factories where they put out hundreds of sets a day?

They would have had a pre-measured cord with the ends already on them. After doing a hundred or so of the same set it would be like tying your shoes

Search "atwater kent" google image------ rows and rows of mostly young women in the assembly process. Ham handed men need not apply.

Call me a mosochist, but.....

I enjoy doing dial cord restringing. True, it helps that you have the proper tools in which to do it but there's, I guess, a certain satisfaction of hittin' it right the first go-around.

There are some real corkers out there though. I think my most, all time difficult was a National NC-300 boatanchor.

It helps to have a looong pair of tweezers to start with. Followed by 3-4 medium sized hemostats (locking long-nosed clamps). A knowledge of knots (read a book on "How to Tie Fishing Fly lures). A nice assortment of springs and, of all things, a bottle of plain red nail polish.(to lock the knots once your job is finished).

Your choice of dial cord is important also. Use fresh stock that has a glass core. This is the toughest stuff by far and it does not stretch. There are basically three diameters for dial string: .035", .027" and .020". Try to match up what you're replacing. Sometimes by using the wrong diametric size, you'll experience cord overlap. This condition can stop all movement of the dial string. It can happen either on the tuning drum assy or the tuning shaft.

Also, be careful of the dial cord pulleys. Solid metal types can stand a small point of lube on it's shaft, but the composite types, usually made from micarta, are not to be oiled at all. Just make sure they are free-wheeling.

All operating surfaces.... dial pointer slider assy should be free of old grease, dial cord drums shouldn't be bent or dirty, tuning shafts should be clean and what helps is to sand the shaft lengthwise where the dial cord is wound. This provides more grip to the cord. Of course, the tuning condenser should rotate freely. Wash out the old bearing grease and re-lube same.

Well, that's a few notes from the masochist...

Enjoy the job...

Thank you Jim, for the most enlightened reply on this subject I've ever read. Will look around for the long hemostats you recommended, as that would be of great help. If you know of a good technique for getting just the right length at the end before making the final knot, let's hear it. I've often thought that a tiny mechanical clamp of some kind would be great to add where the cord could be simply pulled through, cinched tight, and then clamped to it for just the right tension. Maybe fisherman's split shot?? never tried it

Tiny brass eyelet, crimp after getting length right. Some manufacturers used a similar method. As mentioned earlier, on assembly lines they had precut string ready to install so it could be done in seconds.

The vast majority of assembly line workers in radio factories were female, some were all female. Much more agility because back in those days girls were taught to sew, crochet, and do other intricate crafts.

I really don't measure how much I need when restringing....

I take the free end of the cord, tie a loop knot and place it over the cord lip on the drum. Then I stop and stare.
What am I looking at?....
The moving relationship between the drum, the tuning shaft, the pulleys and, most importantly, the dial pointer. Make sure that the tuning condenser is fully meshed and the pointer is sitting at about 530 kc.
Take a look at where the cord exits the dial drum. Will the cord be paying out on the drum?....or winding up on same. This will determine if you must make a full turn of cord on the drum in the beginning or the end of the procedure.
Actually, one of the more difficult parts of this excersize is determining if a complete turn of cord is needed on the tuning drum. A rule of thumb (my thumb) about this is this: If half the circumference of the drum is longer than the dial rail, nine times out of ten you won't need the full loop. But if the pointer traverse is longer than half the circumference of the drum, in most cases, you'll need that full loop on there.

How many times have you seen the tuning knob go the wrong way on a radio? That's because the cord was looped on the other (wrong) side of the tuning shaft.
Pulleys can give you fits if you at first don't the study the path of progression of the cord. Some cord paths are designed to reverse direction for some reason or another. Pulleys are going to make that come true.
Sometimes, when things get bolluxed up for me, I'll move the pointer by hand as well as the tuning condenser and just visualize which way (1) the tuning shaft should go, (2) how the pulleys should be going.
Now...on to finishing the job......
Once you're satisfied everything is running in the right direction (and you wipe the foam off your mouth), take a hemostat and clamp the uncut end to the edge of the dial drum as the cord is about to go into the drum access hole. Then leave about 6" past that point and cut the cord. Place your spring on the other cord lip and pass the new free end through the loop of the free end of the spring. Pull gently until the spring decompresses enough to give good tension. Mark that point on the cord and release the spring tension. Make a fisherman's knot keeping in mind that the marked point is going to be the furthest reach of the cord.
Place cord loop into spring loop and release hemostat.
Take the nail polish and paint the knots.

Now, go get a beer.