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PostPosted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 1:12 am 
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Making progress slow but sure. Last night I redid two of the multi-electrolytic cans making three done six more to go. Man is that grueling work! two a night is enough. Taking a break tonight to help with caring for my aging Mom. There are two more cans to re-stuff on the TV chassis, I'll have some new pics by Sunday night to post a finished TV chassis (I hope). When that's done I will move on to the HV chassis caps hopefully finishing that up by the end of next week. I'm shooting for Mid May for the first smoke test. :lol:

Steve


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PostPosted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 7:05 am 
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Steve,

Looking around a shelf in my basement, I found a set of chassis' from an 8PCS41 that I restored and then junked the cabinet, I looked under the audio chassis and those three 2K resistors were not installed on this one. Someday I'll look at the other chassis's I have up in the garage.

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PostPosted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:37 am 
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I've had them both ways. I've had them without, I've had them with the resistors.
Don't know why the changes were made.
I'll look it up in my RCA mannual.
Bill Cahill

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PostPosted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:36 pm 
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Pressed forward today and finished the other two electrolytic cans on the TV chassis, working on the mega- ohm resistors now. this evening my plan is to clean the tuner contacts, clean all tube sockets and controls on the TV chassis. Late tonight I hope to post some pictures of the finished chassis.

Steve


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PostPosted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:47 pm 
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Does anyone have an RCA tech manual for this set that they could make a copy of for me? It would be nice to see RCA's "take" on the wiring schematic.

Steve


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PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 7:05 am 
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I've run onto one snag on the TV chassis, a disintegrating miniature tube socket. I have a junk chassis down stairs to pull a replacement off from. Here are some pictures of the nearly finished chassis.

New electrolytic caps. It doesn't look like much but it was hours of work.
Image

full top view cleaned up
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 10:57 am 
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Steve,
I've only stuffed Electrolytic Capacitors one time - for that Emerson 639 TV of mine. Still need to refine my "art". Some questions:

- what did you use to cut the bottoms of the cans?
- how are you going to reattach the can tops?
- did your electrolytic's have the black cardboard covers?

Love to read threads like these on TV restoration.

Carl


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 2:01 pm 
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- what did you use to cut the bottoms of the cans?

I put the can in a vice and cut the can right above that bottom lip using a fine tooth hack saw.

- how are you going to reattach the can tops?

I don't, I leave them open to make future trouble shooting easier. I'm not a purest, I don't have a need to make it look original I just want the set to function nice when people come to see it.

- did your electrolytic's have the black cardboard covers?

yes, two of them did.

Steve


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PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 2:14 pm 
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Amazing how the mind works.
You just gave me an "epiphany" :-)

I had considered the only options for these Electrolytic cans as:
1- leave them alone, electrically isolate them, install capacitors below chassis.
2- gut the cans and install capacitors in can, put the shell back on.

Those were the only two options my mind was considering.

Now, the "epiphany" you gave me was what you done - cut the cans, install the capacitors and leave the cans open ... well duh :-) Heck, I like that option a lot. Thanks for insight. The more I read about folks restoration, the more tips I pick up.

Carl


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PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 4:35 pm 
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This is the method I've used on all my restorations. It's quick, effective and works very well. I've done 5 restorations and have had no problems at all using this method of replacement. I figure if I ever have to trouble shoot it will be easier to take readings from the top side.

Here's a close-up.

Image


Last edited by pielock373 on Apr Mon 25, 2011 12:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 8:02 pm 
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Location: Greenville, NC 27858
I thought Sam's C8 was NP [1000@3v].
I use 2x 2200, back to back.

I replace the cardboard cover on restuffed cans that are not
chassis grounded.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:32 pm 
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cwmoser wrote:
cut the cans, install the capacitors

I do this from time to time. An advantage of leaving the can base on the chassis is that you don't have to unsolder the original wiring underneath.

I care about the appearance in my RCA CTC-7, so I'll put the cans back on:

http://antiqueradio.org/RCACTC-7ColorTelevision.htm#ElectrolyticsOnUndisturbedBases

Image

For my Philco Miss America, I didn't care about appearance, so I left the can off.

http://antiqueradio.org/PhilcoF4626MTelevision.htm#ElectrolyticsMountedOnCanBase

Image

Phil Nelson
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:41 pm 
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if they had cardboard covers then the neg was prob a high potential relative the the chassis, You may at least want to reinstall the cardboard to make sure you dont get a shock when working on the chassis. (not sure if you mentioned putting the cardboard back in place).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:51 pm 
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Not to worry :)

"A cardboard cover is used to insulate a can whose exterior has a negative potential that is "floating," meaning that it is not connected to the chassis and thus presents a shock hazard. As seen in the photo, this can is mounted on a nonconductive base to isolate it from the chassis. My replacement capacitor will have no electrical connection to the can, but I'll put the cardboard cover back on to preserve its original appearance."

Phil Nelson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 9:04 pm 
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I was thinking of the caps that the OP has on his set.


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 Post subject: Here is the way I do it.
PostPosted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 3:53 am 
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Follow this link to Photobucket where I have 13 photos of the process I have been using. There is no cutting of the can involved and when finished, and remounted on the chassis, there is no visible sign that the can was ever opened. The method I use involves rolling back the bottom edge of the aluminum can, pulling off the twist tab mounting ring, and then heating the can to soften the tar and pull the terminal disc and capacitor bundle out from the bottom. AFter building and mounting a new capacitor bundle on the old terminal disc, I replace the bundle into the old can, insert the tab mounting ring and fold and peen the edge of the can over the mounting ring. After re-mounting the can on your chassis you can hardly tell the can was ever restuffed.

http://s641.photobucket.com/albums/uu13 ... needed.jpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 5:04 am 
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Yoda, your link didn't work right.
Bill Cahill :(

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PostPosted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 5:38 am 
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It is working now. At least it is working for me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 6:38 am 
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Yah, the link works. I have used the uncrimping method, too, but it's so tedious that I only do it for a special set, like one where I'd also restuff the paper caps. Not every set merits that kind of attention, at least in this house.

Phil Nelson


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PostPosted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 11:15 am 
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Very good post Yoda.
I picked up some good information.

Regarding Electrolytic Capacitors, is there a product line that works better with stuffing inside the cans -- say some that taller and skinnier?

Thanks,

Carl


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