| Author |
Message |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 1:12 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
Making progress slow but sure. Last night I redid two of the multi-electrolytic cans making three done six more to go. Man is that grueling work! two a night is enough. Taking a break tonight to help with caring for my aging Mom. There are two more cans to re-stuff on the TV chassis, I'll have some new pics by Sunday night to post a finished TV chassis (I hope). When that's done I will move on to the HV chassis caps hopefully finishing that up by the end of next week. I'm shooting for Mid May for the first smoke test.
Steve
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
ChuckA
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 7:05 am |
|
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 586 Location: Southeastern, PA
|
|
Steve,
Looking around a shelf in my basement, I found a set of chassis' from an 8PCS41 that I restored and then junked the cabinet, I looked under the audio chassis and those three 2K resistors were not installed on this one. Someday I'll look at the other chassis's I have up in the garage.
_________________ Chuck
http://www.myvintagetv.com
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
Bill Cahill
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:37 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Apr Fri 21, 2006 12:49 am Posts: 9173
|
|
I've had them both ways. I've had them without, I've had them with the resistors.
Don't know why the changes were made.
I'll look it up in my RCA mannual.
Bill Cahill
_________________ http://www.tuberadioforum.com/ PLEASE visit Tube Radio Forums-The best forum in the World!
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:36 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
|
Pressed forward today and finished the other two electrolytic cans on the TV chassis, working on the mega- ohm resistors now. this evening my plan is to clean the tuner contacts, clean all tube sockets and controls on the TV chassis. Late tonight I hope to post some pictures of the finished chassis.
Steve
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sat 23, 2011 10:47 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
|
Does anyone have an RCA tech manual for this set that they could make a copy of for me? It would be nice to see RCA's "take" on the wiring schematic.
Steve
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 7:05 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
I've run onto one snag on the TV chassis, a disintegrating miniature tube socket. I have a junk chassis down stairs to pull a replacement off from. Here are some pictures of the nearly finished chassis.
New electrolytic caps. It doesn't look like much but it was hours of work.
full top view cleaned up

|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
cwmoser
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 10:57 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3352 Location: Advance, NC USA
|
|
Steve,
I've only stuffed Electrolytic Capacitors one time - for that Emerson 639 TV of mine. Still need to refine my "art". Some questions:
- what did you use to cut the bottoms of the cans?
- how are you going to reattach the can tops?
- did your electrolytic's have the black cardboard covers?
Love to read threads like these on TV restoration.
Carl
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 2:01 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
|
- what did you use to cut the bottoms of the cans?
I put the can in a vice and cut the can right above that bottom lip using a fine tooth hack saw.
- how are you going to reattach the can tops?
I don't, I leave them open to make future trouble shooting easier. I'm not a purest, I don't have a need to make it look original I just want the set to function nice when people come to see it.
- did your electrolytic's have the black cardboard covers?
yes, two of them did.
Steve
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
cwmoser
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 2:14 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3352 Location: Advance, NC USA
|
Amazing how the mind works.
You just gave me an "epiphany"
I had considered the only options for these Electrolytic cans as:
1- leave them alone, electrically isolate them, install capacitors below chassis.
2- gut the cans and install capacitors in can, put the shell back on.
Those were the only two options my mind was considering.
Now, the "epiphany" you gave me was what you done - cut the cans, install the capacitors and leave the cans open ... well duh  Heck, I like that option a lot. Thanks for insight. The more I read about folks restoration, the more tips I pick up.
Carl
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
pielock373
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 4:35 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Feb Sun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Posts: 1127 Location: Massachusetts
|
This is the method I've used on all my restorations. It's quick, effective and works very well. I've done 5 restorations and have had no problems at all using this method of replacement. I figure if I ever have to trouble shoot it will be easier to take readings from the top side.
Here's a close-up.

Last edited by pielock373 on Apr Mon 25, 2011 12:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
Pearson
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Sun 24, 2011 8:02 pm |
|
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 117 Location: Greenville, NC 27858
|
|
I thought Sam's C8 was NP [1000@3v].
I use 2x 2200, back to back.
I replace the cardboard cover on restuffed cans that are not
chassis grounded.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
philsoldradios
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:32 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3707 Location: Woodinville, WA USA
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
DaveM
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:41 pm |
|
Joined: Aug Thu 07, 2008 1:36 pm Posts: 2067 Location: Orlando
|
|
if they had cardboard covers then the neg was prob a high potential relative the the chassis, You may at least want to reinstall the cardboard to make sure you dont get a shock when working on the chassis. (not sure if you mentioned putting the cardboard back in place).
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
philsoldradios
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 8:51 pm |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3707 Location: Woodinville, WA USA
|
Not to worry
"A cardboard cover is used to insulate a can whose exterior has a negative potential that is "floating," meaning that it is not connected to the chassis and thus presents a shock hazard. As seen in the photo, this can is mounted on a nonconductive base to isolate it from the chassis. My replacement capacitor will have no electrical connection to the can, but I'll put the cardboard cover back on to preserve its original appearance."
Phil Nelson
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
DaveM
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Mon 25, 2011 9:04 pm |
|
Joined: Aug Thu 07, 2008 1:36 pm Posts: 2067 Location: Orlando
|
|
I was thinking of the caps that the OP has on his set.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
ohohyodafarted
|
Post subject: Here is the way I do it. Posted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 3:53 am |
|
Joined: Mar Thu 22, 2007 4:22 am Posts: 46 Location: Milwaukee
|
Follow this link to Photobucket where I have 13 photos of the process I have been using. There is no cutting of the can involved and when finished, and remounted on the chassis, there is no visible sign that the can was ever opened. The method I use involves rolling back the bottom edge of the aluminum can, pulling off the twist tab mounting ring, and then heating the can to soften the tar and pull the terminal disc and capacitor bundle out from the bottom. AFter building and mounting a new capacitor bundle on the old terminal disc, I replace the bundle into the old can, insert the tab mounting ring and fold and peen the edge of the can over the mounting ring. After re-mounting the can on your chassis you can hardly tell the can was ever restuffed.
http://s641.photobucket.com/albums/uu13 ... needed.jpg
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
Bill Cahill
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 5:04 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Apr Fri 21, 2006 12:49 am Posts: 9173
|
Yoda, your link didn't work right.
Bill Cahill 
_________________ http://www.tuberadioforum.com/ PLEASE visit Tube Radio Forums-The best forum in the World!
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
Tom Schulz
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 5:38 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Mar Sun 01, 2009 10:27 pm Posts: 2914 Location: Ann Arbor, MI
|
|
It is working now. At least it is working for me.
_________________ Tom
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
philsoldradios
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 6:38 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3707 Location: Woodinville, WA USA
|
|
Yah, the link works. I have used the uncrimping method, too, but it's so tedious that I only do it for a special set, like one where I'd also restuff the paper caps. Not every set merits that kind of attention, at least in this house.
Phil Nelson
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
cwmoser
|
Post subject: Posted: Apr Tue 26, 2011 11:15 am |
|
| Member |
 |
Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am Posts: 3352 Location: Advance, NC USA
|
|
Very good post Yoda.
I picked up some good information.
Regarding Electrolytic Capacitors, is there a product line that works better with stuffing inside the cans -- say some that taller and skinnier?
Thanks,
Carl
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
Who is online |
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests |
|
|