Just acquired an RCA 9-PC-41 with an aftermarket remote. The remote control setup is different than the ones that RCA supplied with these sets, and there are absolutely no markings or logos on any of the parts that comprise the remote control system. I've attached some photos of the remote control, and of the channel indicator. Apparently, the channel indicator lights up individual numbers when a specific station is tuned in. Also, the remote control "hand unit" controls several functions. I've pretty much figured out how everything wires into the set....except for a couple of boxes with adapter plugs that are plugged into the audio chassis and power supply chassis. Each chassis has one these boxes plugged into the socket of one of the the 5U4 rectifiers, and the 5U4 is then plugged into the adapter socket. None of the wires from the adapter boxes goes anywhere else but the 5U4 socket. There are two tubes on each adapter box, and there are no type markings on any of the tubes. I'm stumped. Anyone have any idea what these adapter boxes might be for?

It sure seems like you would have to really bastardize the set's chassis to connect this remote into the set?
There must be more to it then what your showing in the two pictures? The big question I have, Do the original
controls on the front board still work or have they been disconnected and wired to the remote only?

Steve P

Yes, there is more to the remote control setup than I have shown. The control box is actually wired to a separate motor controlled tuner module that was just laying inside the cabinet. The lighted channel indicators are wired to that tuner. I guess the way they disabled the internal tuner was to remove the three tubes on the RF chassis. The way they connected the motorized tuner was to run some wires to the underside of the RF chassis. It doesn't look like anything that was already there got moved to changed, at least at a glance, except for the removed tubes. Power for the extra tuner is provided by another AC line cord that was wired through a relay to the underside of the power supply chassis. All of the mods look like they'll be easy to reverse.

I don't know if the original controls still work, as I haven't tried to operate the set. I'm going to re-cap the set and do a careful inspection before I try to operate it.

Any ideas about the tube modules that were plugged unto the rectifier sockets? I don't see a plate inside the tubes, so maybe they're ballasts of some kind? I don't have a clue why someone would think they needed to add a ballast, but I guess I'll find out more as I get into restoring the electronics. Right now, I've removed everything from the cabinet and have just finished cleaning the inside of the cabinet up and moving it to one of my spare bedrooms. I'll probably tackle the power supply chassis first.

Pix or it never happened.......here are some pictures on my new set. I've removed all of the electronics and optics from the cabinet, and started cleaning the cabinet up. It's the original finish. Though it's not perfect, it's original and I like the patina, so I'm just going to leave it as is, and maybe touch up some of the imperfections with some Old English.

On those adapter boxes. Those tubes do look like ballasts. Perhaps you could take the boxes apart and trace the wiring. It is possible that the socket can be snapped out of the adapter plug so that you can see what is connected to what. If not, you could use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to trace how the socket and plug are hooked up. You could also try an ohmmeter on those tubes and see if they are ballasts.

That remote setup is cool! In your shoes I might try to get the remote mods to work after getting the factory circuits going as an example of some of the unique mods that people made at the time..

I'm going to be restoring the set back to original, but plan on keeping the remote control setup. Once I get the set back up and running with its original tuner, I'll see if there's a way to hook up the remote circuits so that I can switch between the two.

I've confirmed that the tube assemblies contain ballast tubes. About 25 ohms. The mystery is why someone thought they were needed. Perhaps when I get my SAMS schematic I can figure it out.

Started cleaning up the optics can this morning. Not too dirty, and the spherical mirror looks good, so it doesn't look like I'll need to do any re-silvering. The 5TP4 picture tube, on the other hand, has some serious screen burn, so it looks like I'll be looking for a replacement tube.

Getting ready to re-cap the four original chassis. Placed and order with Mouser yesterday. I think this set takes the record for the highest number of paper / electrolytic capacitors I've ever had to replace in a set. The current count is 75.....hopefully I didn't miss any.

This set sure has a lot of paper and electrolytic capacitors

I'm making some slow progress on cleaning and re-capping the four chassis. I got the audio and power supply chassis cleaned and re-capped, have thoroughly cleaned the sweep/high voltage chassis (top and bottom), and have started the recapping (and cleaning as I go) the RF/TV receiver chassis. I've traced out how the aftermarket remote control setup was wired in to the RF chassis, but have removed it from the set. I plan to go back to the original factory circuit setup, but will keep the remote control parts and clean then up to use as a static display.