Hi guys, a few months ago, I had told you all about my 50 GE 16C116, well I have now started to tackle the project, there is a guy in Toledo, OH close to my location here in Bowling Green that said he would help me with the restoration, but his help is on and off, not very constant. Which will lead me to do most by myself.

I already have the chassis out and am now going to test the tubes, CRT, and clean the chassis.

My FIRST question is; does anybody know how to get the deflection yoke to slide off the picture tube, I have already removed the Ion Trap magnet, spring clip and mounts, but the darn deflection will not slide off, I don't want to break anything so I have tried very carefully, no luck yet. The deflection yoke is completely loose it just will not slide off, I can get it to the end where the pins are, but it will not clear the plastic black part, any thoughts. Until I can get that off I cant start cleaning the chassis, or take out the CRT.

Could anybody help please, here are some pictures, thanks for all your help. Will have many more questions in the very close future.

If the yoke is loose from the tube neck, then I suggest removing the picture tube from the front with the yoke in place. Just make sure it is not stuck to the tube and it clears the socket.

If the yoke is stuck to the CRT, there are a few tricks. Let the forum know exactly where you see the problem.

If the yoke is stuck to the CRT, there are a few tricks. Let the forum know exactly where you see the problem.[/quote]

The yoke is not stuck to the CRT, I had to use considerable force to get the yoke off the picture tube. As a result I have now noticed that the base of the CRT is loose, it has been re-glued once before decades ago, I could tell from the residue that is dried up. I was able to get the picture tube off finally, and now am ready for cleaning.

Does it take a lot of force to hurt the deflection yoke?, I didn't break anything, but I had to pull dang hard to get it off, most likely a result of that base not being centered after it was re-glued once before.

Also if the base is quite loose how can I repair it?, just re-glue it, is there a special glue that would be better since there is a lot of heat in that area of the chassis.

Do you think all the gas has escaped from the base?

Last question, I have a B+K CRT 467 Analyzer, can I test the picture tube out of the chassis, and what the heck is a HTR range? This picture tube is a Philco type 16KP4/16RP4 Code 6047 Serial #S130014

Jon

Jon-

That B&K is a good tester. If you do not have its manual, you should get one, and the setup chart for various CRTs. I think you can find the chart online, maybe even at the B&K Web site. It has the basic instructions for the tester if I remember right. "Htr range" is Heater range, the range of filament voltages you can select with the adjustment control. Your CRT is likely 6.3 volts, so you would set the adjustment at minimum, switch the range to 4-7 volts (if I remember right), then with the power on adjust for 6.3 volts. Likely, the G1 control should be set at 50 volts, then adjust cutoff to add one "tick" on the meter (if it moves at all, otherwise set it to maximum), (the red meter and control, on the left), then switch to Test. The steps in the test process are numbered on the device itself.

yes thank you Chris, I actually have all three original manuals, and have looked through the one that says "Monochrome", what does that mean? That is were I found this CRT number listed. Thanks for your help so far, I know some of these GE TVs are not very collectible, but this one is a great candidate for restoration as the only thing that has been replaced was the CRT tube in 1960, and a majority of the tubes are stamped Philco, I am guessing this set probably had a tune up when they put in the Philco CRT.

I hope other ARF members can help with these basic questions, it probably crazy to say that this is my first TV restoration project. But I am taking it slow.

Thanks for your help so far Chris and Philco Don.

Monochrome = "one color" AKA black & white as opposed to color picture tubes.

Good luck,
Bob

Usually the yoke will slip over the base of the CRT without any problems. Sometimes things are tight as in your set. You probably did not damage the yoke as it would have been just as tight going on to the CRT. When I have to use some force to get the yoke off I try to press in on the base with my thumbs while pulling out on the yoke with my fingers.

I have used Pliobond glue to reattach the base. I try to work it into the crack between the base and the glass and then find a way to hold the base into position until it dries. Note that Pliobond glue will take several days to dry completely. Other people have used one of the super glues. If you did not hear any hissing, then the vacuum seal is still good. There is some possibility that you may have fractured some of the solder connections where the wires solder to the pins. Usually you can tell if that has happened by looking at the end of the pins using a magnifying glass. If necessary you can re-solder them. Glue the base back on first.

thanks Tom for the tips on re-glueing the base of the CRT. I have taken a look at the underside of the chassis, everything looks to be untouched, quite overwhelming with three transformers, 6 electrolytics on top and bottom. Overall very clean underneath and nothing has been spliced or anything. I will be doing a quick power up of the set soon, I will plug the set in a few times to try and warm up the electrolytics, they do not look to have broken seals or leak. I will also test the picture tube. The power up is only for 10 or 15 seconds so I can trouble shoot, of course all paper caps will be replaced and resistors checked.

I will replace the 2 Sealed electrolytics if they don't check out testing with the multi-meter, the paper electrolytics will be replaced of course.

Here are some pictures of the chassis underside and top without the CRT attached. Thanks for all your help so far, let me know what you think.

Jon

Please be aware that this is a hot chassis set, and should be used with an isolation transformer while troubleshooting or repairing. I see that the selenium rectifiers have long ago been replaced with early silicon plug-in rectifiers.

Hi guys, just about completely cleaned the whole chassis. I started to test the picture tube a minute ago. I got as far as the "set cut off part" on that 467 B+K tester. The filliment was glowing nice and bright after I applied 50 volts G1.

MY QUESTION: could any of you please tell me what "ADD 1 Division means" I have no clue. After that It should be smooth sailing. But I am stuck at that part on the directions, and have no clue what it means. Please help me out as I am excited to know if the tube is still good, I know it is from 1960 and from the looks of the chassis, I don't think this set has been turned on for the last few decades so I am praying. This will also allow me the knowledge to test the picture tube on the 802 GE 10FP4.

Thanks guys!
Jon

On my tester to preform the cutoff test I have to adjust a knob while watching the cutoff scale of the meeter to see if I can adjust the knob such that the meeter pointer increases by two divisions on the cutoff meeter scale.

I believe that my tester is also a B&K 467, but I may have the make of model mixed up in my mind.

I hope this helps.

Tom C.

what is two divisions or one division, is that half of something or do I have to divide something?

Jon-

"Add one division" means to look at the meter with the test switch in the "adjust cutoff" (or is it G2?) position. The meter pointer may be at zero, or slightly above or even below. One division is one step on the little curved scale that the pointer is floating above. Each step is maybe 1/16 inch apart. If you turn the knob all the way up and still get no movement on the meter, then move the switch on the top left (I think it is labeled "G2 normal/high") to the "high" position and see if the meter now moves above zero. If it does, turn the knob back all the way down and then up until the pointer moves one of those 1/16" marks higher than it is with the control all the way down. Then, switch to the "test" position and read the meter. If you do not get any movement of the meter in the "set cutoff" switch position (and indeed you may not), it means the CRT is very weak and may also read low or zero in the "test" position. This is where you can use the "clean/balance" position to run the filament voltage higher for some time to try and slowly improve the tube's performance.

Thanks so much Chris, that will fix the problem I have been having with this tube tester, I will let you know the results.

I am about 99% done with the cleaning of the set. I will button all of it back up and will let it sit till Monday when my friend comes down to help me trouble shoot what needs to be done, other than a recapping and resistor check of course. I am still in need of the schematic for the set and will keep looking for one, a SAMS photo fact would be perfect, I will probably end up buying one.

I will keep you all updated on this set, I hope to finish it in the coming month to move on to other projects.
Thanks

Jon