Hi All, glad to be here. Lots of helpful topics posted over the years. I just picked up my first Record changer that I plan on restoring. The cabinet is in good shape, as is the VM turntable. Gary at Voiceofmusic.com has been great in helping me ID many of the components.

Here are the problems out of the box:
There is a loud hum when the console is turned on
The cartridge is all gummed up
There is a squeak in the idler wheel
One of the speakers has a loose wire
The original legs need work
One of the tubes has a lot of burnt carbon residue on one side (not sure if it is a problem).

From what I have read recapping it should fix the hum (especially the multi cap tube). I have never recapped anything and some how-tos make me a little squeamish about electrocuting myself. Any tips to calm me would be great. The cabinet came with gold (duct style) tape down the middle of the slightly angled speaker grill. Looking at the stock photo from the SAMS sheet makes it look like piping was originally down the middle (there is a thin channel).

On to the Pictures!

The cabinet as I received it.


The cabinet with replacement legs (unfinished) and duct tape removed.




V-M model 1210-B457 record changer.


Cartridge (Although it contains a 105-1).


Inside the Cab.








This yellow wire is loose. Not sure where it goes.


Under the platter.




Link to the SAMS file (in-case anyone is interested)
Truetone 4DC5960/2

So far I have:
Ordered new cartridge & needles
Ordered two 5OEH5 Tubes
Ordered SAMS File (Amp info & Schematic Only - See link above)
Ordered Gary's restoration kit including refurbished idler wheel (sent him my crusty one) w/ documentation on the changer

Most import thing to start with is recapping I am guessing?

Todd

Yes, get the amp working right first.

You'll first need to replace the multi-section filter cap and then replace any tubular paper caps.

When replacing the electrolytic capacitors, you need to pay close attention to polarity. If you accidently wire the new cap(s) in backwards, the cap will likely explode and take out other parts with it.

You likely will not be able to purchase a multi-section cap like what's in it and if you can find one, it will be expensive. It is perfectly OK to use individual capacitors to replace the original sections in the multi-section can. On the old cap, the metal can will likely be the negative terminal. If a cardboard tube cap with several wires coming out of it is used, the black lead will be the negative. On modern caps, the negative lead is usually marked with an arrow pointing to the negative lead. And, you should connect the negative leads of each of the new caps together and connect to where the original negative lead was on the old cap.

As far as values go, you can replace a 50 uf with a 47 uf, a 30 uf with a 33 uf, a 60 uf with a 68 uf, etc. As far as working voltage, the new caps need to be rated with a working voltage that matches, or exceeds, the original cap. The original cap will likely have a working voltage of 150 volts. The closest that you'll easily be able to find today are 160 volt caps and this is perfectly acceptable. For an extra margin of safety, you can go with 200 volt caps.

The paper caps are non-polarized and usually have woring voltages from between 200 and 600 volts. I usually order 630 volt caps just to make things easier. Also, there may be some plastic cased paper caps in your unit that have a band of color codes on them. These are known as "bumblebee" caps and should not be confused with resistors that have a similar color code.

Also, pay attention to lead dress on any parts that you replace and don't allow any leads to touch anything that might cause a short.

Thanks for the tips and info. I will stop by Fry's tonight and pickup some caps to replace the electrolytic ones as my first attempt.

Don't be surprised if Fry's has only low-voltage capacitors used in computers, not the high-voltage capacitors you need for vacuum tube electronics. You may have to order them from Mouser, Allied, Old Radio Parts, Just Radios, Antique Electronics, etc.

-David

The local parts house has some HV caps that are pre-packaged and rather expensive. I think of it as $.50 for the cap and $2.00 for the plastic/paper package that it comes in. It's for this reason that I order most of my caps in bulk from Mouser Electronics. And, let's not even talk about the cost of HV electrolytic caps at the local parts house.

Did you say you've never worked on electronics before?
If so, I'd reccommend you learn how to properly solder. What tools do you own?
Not all burnt looking spots on tubes are that way.
Sometimes it's internal shilding.
Bill Cahill

Yes learn how to solder first, not trying to be nasty but last thing id want is for you to short something out and it go bang.
find some scrap parts to try with first till your conffident, we all have to start somewhere.

Hi All, I didn't mention my electronics experience. I am very handy with a soldiering iron and have built many little electronic kits over the years and repaired lots of toys for my two year old. This is my first amp though and my first experience with recapping.

And yes I stopped at Fry's last night and only found one cap I could use. I will place a big order for everything I need. I know how to order replacements for the electrolytics, but am having trouble reading the fixed caps. Can someone write down a laundry list of what to order based off this SAMS chart? I want to make sure I get the right caps the first go-around. The note about mfd & mmfd has me confused. It would be really appreciated.



I got the replacement 5OEH5 and popped them in. Now I have static and a loud hum I kept the old tubes but will worry about that once I get the amp squared away.

thanks everyone for your help so far. It has been great.

todd

The only other caps you need to worry about first are the ones with a voltage after them.
Further, that companny tended to use under rated caps to save money. I'd reccommend you use all new 630 volt cpas.
Bill Cahill

Perfect, thanks Bill. I placed an order for 630v replacements. Do I need to worry about discharging the caps? Or can I just clip them and replace? I know the multi-cap can will need to be replaced with 3 individual caps.

No. The electrolytics would lose their charge when you turn it off, but it's electrically open anyway.
Bill Cahill

Replaced two of the three fixed caps in the amp and discovered a toasted resistor. This is my first time in a tube amp and damn are these things a rats-nest of wires! So many exposed leads! I am waiting on an order for the rest of the caps and a replacement resistor. Will post more photos soon. thanks again for all the help!

todd

I am happy to report a success! Recapped the amp, replaced the burnt out resistor and the sound is crystal clear now. I am still having an issue with the sound so hopefully someone can give me a suggestion. see below.

Replaced Electrolytic can. I got lucky and the three caps fit snuggly in the old holder.


Amp Recapped.


This yellow wire was disconnected when I got the console. I cant figure out where it goes? Can someone offer any suggestions? I have posted the portion of the schematic below. Obviously I need a lesson in reading these. SOME sound is coming from this speaker, but putting on a Beatles album I am very familiar with, something just sounds "off".


Although there are "external" speaker jacks on the back of the console, there is an empty spot for the "consolette" jack.


Any additional help would be great. I REALLY appreciate the help so far.

From how I read it that yellow wire should be green and should be going to the "consolette" jack. Since that jack is missing (from the factory I presume) it should be disconnected?

second set of eyes anyone?