Keep the brightness down to where the line is barely visible so you dont burn the phospher.

Very good point. In fact when I first got the line, I turned off the set so I could go get my cell phone to take a pic. The line turned into the dot which stayed on the center of the screen. I had read that the dot is actually bad for the CRT and can cause an ion burn, so when the dot appeared, I bumped the ion trap to get rid of it. Upon powering the set up again, I had no Hv again. Ten minutes of fiddling with the ion trap, brightness control, and vert lin/size finally got the line back. When I start on the vertical, I'll turn the brightness WAY down.

What is your plate voltage on the vert out tube?

Keep the brightness turned down, or, you will burn the phosphor on the picture tube.
Brightness control should work the same as other sets. Have you disconnected it, and, maybe reversed some of the wires??
I kind of had a feeling it couldn't be that serious with the voltages you were getting.
Maybe the vertical osc. tube is also reversed?
I think that set uses a 12AU7 for video. Memory is a little weak.
I know it uses strange tubes in tuner, including a 12AT7, and, I think a 6AB4, plus the RF.tube.
These were very strange sets. Did you replace all the electrolytics? There is another buried electrolytic on top, and, you can't easily see terminals on bottom of chassis.
What kind of audio are you getting?
If nothing, it may be the mica cap in audio circuit is shorted. I don't think it's in actual amp. I think, again, with a weak memory, and, not having schematic in front of me, that this cap is actually feeding audio I F from Video I F.
GE used some very low quality mica caps.
Bill Cahill

The Vert Osc/Output is another 12SN7. Plate voltage on pin 2 is 349. riders says 330V and Sams says 385V. The grid on pin 1 is low. SB 13V and I have 2V. Sme with pint 5. The main problem in voltage in on pin 6. It SB 5V and I have about 260V. I'm gonna check that circut next. It comes off the vert hold control and thru a 39K resistor.

Bill, I have replaced all electrolytics (all 9 of them) including that hidden one on top. It's now located underneath. What I am noticing now is when I power it up, I have no raster for about 3 min. Finnally the horiz line appers. I haven't messed with the brightness control. It's very hard to get to. I'd like to spray some cleaner in it.

Doug

These GE's were always slow. Take forever to warm up.
Several things could be wrong.
Mis alignment of Height, Lin, controls, or, one, or, both defective.
Open, or, shorted vert. Out. trans.
Bad vert. winding on yoke.
Bad mica caps in vert. osc. What does it use as vert. intergrator circuit?
That's usually a circuit with several resistors in seried, and, bypass caps of low value one at least two of them, sometimes going to B-, sometimes to a higher ground potential. This circuit is located in Vertical Oscilator circuit.
Does the set have a vertical osciloator transformer? If that was bad, that could also kill the vertical.
Be careful. Normally, the primary of the vertical output transformer, and, the yoke side of it, you cannot make voltage measurements as there is very high ac spikes there, and, you will blow your meter.
Please handle with extreme caution, and, use only one hand. Keep other hand far away from set, in your pocket, or, behind your back as a safety measure.
Bill Cahill

Bill, as far as the intergrator circut: I find the following coming from the Sync Amp to the vert Oscialtor: 270mmf (replaced. I only had a 250 on hand though), 470K, 10K, .002(goes to ground), 22K, .002(goes to ground), 39K, .001(goes to ground), and a 150mf which lead to the grid of the vert oscialtor. I'll check all of these resistors next. I know I replaced the .002s and .001.

That electrolytic you mentioned, that was hiding on top of the chasis, IS in the vertical circut. It is a 30mfd coming off the primary of the vert output trans. Also, coming from the positive of that 30mfd is a 1500ohm 1 W resistor. When I check it, it does read around 1700. I went ahead and ordered a new one. That resistor goes to the horiz section of the yoke and also to pin 6 of the flyback.

The secondary of the vert output trans goes to to the yoke windings which have 2 resistors of 1200 ohms each. I want to locate those and check them. One lead of the secondary also goes thru a 270 ohm resistor and on up to pin 11 of the CRT. I want to find that and check that too.

The set does not use an vert oscilator transformer

That incorrect coupling mica cap may be enough to kill your vertical.
Not saying it is, but, I think it might be.
Bill Cahill

When I ordered that 1500 ohm resistor, I also ordered a correct 270 mf capacitor. I never could find those 1200 ohm resistors on the yoke. I had replaced the 47 mf capacitor in the horiz section of the yoke, but can't see the resistors.

I'm also questioning the vert size control. It's a 3 meg. The closest I have on hand is a 2.5m. I may try that briefly and see if that makes any effect. If it does, then I can order a new 3 meg.

The exact value of the parts in the vertical integrator (that stuff between the sync separator and the vertical oscillator) is not critical for having the oscillator running. They will affect how well the vertical syncs up to the received signal after everything is mostly working.

You can test that vert size control with an ohmmeter. You may have to disconnect all but one of the wires connected to it. Then connect the ohmmeter between the center lug and either of the end lugs. Vary the control over it's range and the ohmmeter should vary from near zero to near 3 meg. If that works, then retry the test using the other end lug. If both tests work then the pot is good.

Check the 4.3 meg resistor off of pin 5 of the 12sn7 and also check vert size control.

After finnishing my RCA 17S-7093 on Fri night, I finally got back into the GE. After studying the schematic, I found I had used a wrong electrolytic. My set is the early version of the 805, and the later version uses a different electrolytic for C7. My original C7 was a can located on top of the chasis, and it was so cramped that I couldn't read the values, so I mistakenly used the values for the later version. The Sams only gives a schematic for the early verions along with complete info for the later version. After fixing that, I started doing some tracing and found 1 more mistake. When I replaced the selenium rectifiers, I had mistakenly soldered the ground wire from the Vert & horz hold to the pos terminal of the rectifier instead of back to gropund. No wonder the pin 6 of my 12SN7 Ver tube had about 250V on it. After fixing that, the vertical voltages were now mormal, but I still only had the horiz line across the screen.

I grabbed a 12SN7 out of another set that I knew was good and subbed it. That gave me a full raster. With the cable hooked up, I could see a faint image on the screen but with no horiz or vert sync. Adjusting the controls didn't help. I started rechecking tubes again. The 12AT7 conv in the tuner showed bad. I replaced it and got a good sharp pic for a brief time. However, the next time I tried it, I just got the raster & weak image again. The AF Amp (6SQ7) and ratio det (6AL5) check weak, so I just ordered new ones. When I turn the brightness WAY down, I can actaully see the out of sync horz pretty good. With brightness turned it, it just looks like a raster.

Any ideas
Doug

Doug

The 6sq7 wouldn't cause that. It's the audio pre mp tube.
Try wiggling tuner tubes. Try another good 12AT7, 6BC5 tuner tubes.
Might be one of your 6AU6 video I F tubes went south.
Congrats on getting that beasty working.
Someday I'll restore mine.
Bill Cahill

I have a nice working GE Loco. that I've had for 15 years. I turn it on maybe 3 times a year and dust it once a month. I've tired of it and soon it will be sold. I liked the set but you need a change every so often.
I had horz. pull till I made some resistor changes in that circuit. Set has been flawless since.

Bill, Sorry to be so late in getting back to you on this, but I had some tubes ordered which finally came in today. After my last post, I figured out why I had no video. The 12AU7 tube in the Video Amp was bad. Part of it checked good, and part checked bad. Thinking I had another 12AU7, I tossed the bad one out. Actually, I had a bunch of 12AT7s and no 12AU7. I thought I could sub a 12AT7, bnut that didn't work. That's why I had no video signal. The old 12AU7 gave me a pic. Anyway, a nbew 12AU7 arrived today along with a set of 12SN7s which I put in the vertical osc and horiz osc. I now have a sharp signal, but it is impossible to lock in the horiz. If I can get a pic, it's very unstable then the horiz goes out after a second or two. I'll have to keep digging.

Doug

Time to replace micas in horiz. osc., and, sync circuits.
That should start to help. G E was known for bad mica caps.
Bill Cahill

Bill, I've been working on that tonight. On the 12SN7 Horix osc, voltages were normal except for pin 4 &5. Pin 4 SB -25V. I got that one time. All other times, it overloads my digital meter.
Pin 4 has a 240mmf coming off of it. I replaced it with a 251. It then goes thru a 150K 1W resistor (checks good), then thru a 220 mmf onto ground. I replaced the 220 with a 251 (that's all I had). After the 150K, the voltage does read correctly.

Pin5 should have 245V, and my meter overloads. Coming off pin 5 is an 8200ohm resistor, which I had replaced then goes to the horiz freq coil. Where the 8200 ohm meets the coil does read 220V.

I had missed replacing the 47K resistor coming off the horiz hold control. It checked 50K, so I replaced it. The pic is a little more stable now. Sometimes it's fine, then it starts pulling then the horiz goes out. Sometimes the pic is sharp and other times it looks washed out (see pic). Adjusting the horiz freq and drive just changes the setting on the horiz hold where the pic is supposed to lock in. Sometimes the setting drifts by itself.

Doug

Bill, a quick update: After posting, I got out my VTVM and rechecked. It has my pin 4 & 5 as normal. I'm going to next replace the 560K resistor coming off pin 1 and go from there. Just touching the horiz hold, brightness or contrast makes the hoiz go out of sync. Vert hold is pretty stable, so I don't think it's a sync issue.

Doug

Have you cleaned the controls with contact cleaner? Deoxit from Caig labs is the best contact cleaner that I have found. In a pinch I have used WD-40 as a contact cleaner. The WD-40 lasts for about a year, Deoxit lasts for about 5 years.

Is that your actual video picture? If so, you have another problem. Looks washed out. Almost negative. Looks like maybe your video det. diode may be getting leaky.
Bill Cahill