Wow, guys, thanks. It appears I've started a "hot" topic here.

I did get the Elements of Radio Servicing book and the schematics--thanks for those suggestions. Looking for an isolation transformer and in the meantime won't be plugging the chassis in anytime soon due to all these scary warnings. Good tips about keeping one hand away so as not to make a circuit and wearing rubber soles etc.

I am well aware of how little I know. That said, I do like just jumping in and seeing how far I can get. I know it will take awhile to get up to speed....

PS If there's anyone in the Boulder/Denver area who would be willing to show me a few tricks, that would be great. populux at gmail dot com

Although I can't add much to what these guy's have told you so far because I am new to the hobby also I will tell you that I did not take my time (I'm impatient) to learn all I needed before jumping in with both feet. I have made a ton of mistakes and have had to go back and learn the basic's anyway so I would have a slight idea of what they are talking about. Restoring these amazing radio's is harder/easier than I ever thought but the reward of seeing one and hearing one come alive is more than I ever thought. This site has helped me tremendously and will help you also. Take your time it will be worth the wait.

tons of information on the internet
http://jacquesricher.com/NEETS/
learn this then identify every component on the chassis and what each does. know where the house current comes in. know where the power goes through how it changes what it does. then you can start poking around inside with a meter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3H ... re=related

I agree with the educational issue. A member of my radio club has produces some very resaonably priced DVD's on radio restoration. Below is his contact information.

Bret Menassa
Bret's Old Radios
P.O. Box 51671
Denton, TX 76206
Website: www.bretsoldradios.com Email: bretsoldradios@att.net
Four part video series on repairing and restoring vintage radios

Good luck!

Mike

hints and kinks forum has some great resources to start with. should be some 'sticky' references made permanent there.

/

This is a good site that explains the typical AA5 all American 5 tube set stage by stage.

http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/fun ... AA5-1.html

To all the good advice I'd like to add,you will enjoy the hobby much more if you actually know what you're doing.Anybody can replace caps and such but if you don't know what each part does,it takes something away from really enjoying what you're doing.

In my high school electronics class, we had isolation xformers available, but were also taught to check the plug polarity of each "hot chasis" radio we worked on. "Hot chassis" means the metal chassis is connected to one side of the AC power line when plugged in. One merely assures that the neutral (grounded) side of the line is connceted to the chassis, not the hot side. You do that with an AC voltmeter, which will read the voltage from the chassis to the receptacle ground terminal.
You still need to exercise caution, since some of these sets have the line switch going to the chassis, which can make the chassis hot when the switch is off.
Be careful!!!

Sorry for the delay in replying. I've been off.
I can't find the schematic for your Zenith. Because of the possibility that the chassis connects to one side of the line through the on/off switch, which means it will be hot either when off or when on, depending on the plug polarity, I would assume the chassis to be "HOT" and make sure no one can contact it while plugged in.
Either that or use an isolation transformer while working on it.
When the chassis is in the (bakelite or wood) cabinet, with insulated knobs on and the back in place, it is assumed no one can touch the metal chassis.

I second that. Been there, done that, and made the hospital trip to prove it. Worst yet, I was doing something "safer" than working on a radio when it happened (disconnecting two "grounded" coax cables from each other).

Having said that, it is possible to safely work on these radios with proper precautions. I highly agree that a little time spent reading up on the subject will be time well spent in the long run.

Curtis Eickerman

Finally found the schematic for your Zenith and got it to open with djvu.
It does indeed have the on/off switch in the leg of the line that goes to the chassis.
That means that with the switch on, one side of the line is connected to the chassis, but with the switch off, the OTHER side of the line is connected to the chassis, thru the tube filaments.
Without modifying the circuit, this chassis may be hot in EITHER on or off mode, regardless of how the plug is inserted into an outlet. !
So, don't come in contact with the chassis while it's plugged in. And don't leave it plugged in while the chassis is out of the cabinet. Consider this a HOT CHASSIS set.

I've said it before: don't be AFRAID of these radios, but RESPECT them. Fear comes from not knowing how electricity works. Electricity is not unpredictable. If you take the reasonable precautions discussed in this post, you can troubleshoot live AC/DC sets.