Recently picked up this poor pathetic RCA 56X2 in dire need of attention. I'm not sure if the case can be repaired as it's cracked (pun intended) in a couple places and the bottom at one of the side walls is cracked from front to back completely separated. (Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated)

As can be seen in the photos, this poor thing looks like it was left out in a tool shed for a number of years. Someone, apparently without soldering skills, spliced in a new power cord at one time or another. And the loop antenna coil has been pretty much trashed and will need a new piece of fiber board. (Where to get this? Any suggestions?)

Amazingly, below chassis is in pretty good shape and appears to have all the original parts with abundant wax capacitors & electrolytic. I was kind of disappointed with the fiber tube sockets so when I strip it down, I'll install something a lot better. The speaker don't look all that great so it's a good candidate for retro-fitting with the BOSS BRS40 4" dual-cone. This takes metal working skills as the replacement has to be front mounted off 3/4" spacers at the bottom and 1/2" spacers at the top. Not an easy task since you have to take critical measurements and manufacture a custom L bracket that attaches to the dial scale. When finished though, you have a tough speaker cone that won't puncture just touching it.

Unfortunately, other photos can't be posted due to the severe 256K size limit. Hay! Modern cameras are at least 5 mp.

This was my FIRST radio given to me in 1946 and the FIRST radio I every repaired (bad electrolytics). Its performance was very good and I used to DX a lot. Tone was OK (although the two step tone control was quite limiting --maybe you can put in a continuous tone control?). I also liked the very, very BRIGHT dial light which was a 7.5V 51 not the 6V 47s.

The chassis was very roomy underneath with detachable side panels for easy access (compare this dream to the same year 66X series with narrow, incedibly deep chassis --ugh).

Why would you want to replace the fiber sockets? Don't ask for trouble. Just deoxidize the pins, put in a set of new tube and enjoy.

You can glue (use white or carpenter's to preserve the loop from chemical reaction with stronger glues) a piece of stiff cardboard to the loop --don't get so fancy and look around for something "special." You can also use double-sided tape, but once it's down, it's down.

BTW: I recall this is the only AA6/AA5 I've ever come across that had bypass caps rated at
800 V!

Best,
Maurice

It's an antique radio board...Takes antique camera equipment to mesh...

for the cabinet glue it together with your favorite cement sand it off use some automotive glazing sand again prime and paint it. I have heard of wiping the chassis down with naval jelly then wipe with a damp cloth. paint the metal tubes polish the glass tubes polish the metal IF cans

Re: This was my FIRST radio given to me in 1946 and the FIRST radio I every repaired (bad electrolytics). Its performance was very good and I used to DX a lot. Tone was OK (although the two step tone control was quite limiting --maybe you can put in a continuous tone control?). I also liked the very, very BRIGHT dial light which was a 7.5V 51 not the 6V 47s.

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Wow! All the way back to 1946, an amazing period for radio. I grew up in poverty so rarely had anything given to me. My first radio was a crystal set, one of those Philmore jobs where a sliding arm went across a coil wound on a block of wood. Then you had to fiddle with that cat's whisker in a madding attempt to hit the right spot on the rock. If you were lucky, you'd faintly hear three or four stations all mixed together. As a paper boy, I'd spot old fans and TV's people would put out for the trash pickup. I'd pull the chassis and tie it to the back of the bike and drag home. Having nothing, I was forced to steal books and magazines to learn electronics and cut parts out of those trashed TV's. But what about the money from the paper route? Forget it. The parents sent me out to work when I was 10 and took all the money to help support their beer & cigarettes. But by doing things the hard way and scrounging for parts & supplies, it was a good hands-on education.

http://www.daveperkins.com/Philmore%20bakelite.JPG

On the two-step tone control, they gave the false impression of a bass boost by switching in a capacitor to shunt some of the high frequencies. Then later when hi-fi came along, real bass and treble control appeared by nature of variable gain amplifiers in a particular band of frequencies. That along with cross-over networks in big-box speaker systems.

Re: Why would you want to replace the fiber sockets? Don't ask for trouble. Just deoxidize the pins, put in a set of new tube and enjoy.

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I typically strip a chassis down and go over it with steel wool since the majority of the time, the point-to-point wiring is cracked with insulation falling off the wires. After removing the pit marks, rust, and discoloration, I like to spray them with the new Rustoleum silver metallic. Not because I'm going to stare at the chassis like some kind of fish tank, but to stop the minute rust deposits down in the metal pits and seal out the moisture. I eventually would like to abandon paint try some nickel electroplating that would be better looking and a lot more durable than paint.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8Xo43sf ... re=related

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TubeAMP - I like your Navel Jelly idea. I'll have to try using that product. When I do an initial chassis clean-up, one thing I've found that works great is dollar store carpet cleaner --the liquid pump spray, not the foam. You just spray it on metal or plastic and wait 20 minutes, wiping off with a paper towel. So far, it hasn't had any corrosive effect on these materials, leaves no deposits, and really cuts grease, grime, and yellow cigarette deposits.

Retro-tronics.com has radio backs for similar models, the cabinet is probably the same size. I bought various backs, nicely made.
Don

Nice web site except for the prices. I don't mind paying for something but I won't be made a sucker. Looks like I'll just have to hand manufacture my own and select a more durable material.

Radiomuseum.org has pictures of the front and back so you know what the back and everything should look like, and the ads for it.
http://www.radiomuseum.org/act_main.cfm

I also just use Faststone Image Viewer (free) to quickly re-size pictures to 640 x 480 and 96 DPI resolution for any web sites.
http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm
Don

Just made my own back for a Philco, labor, many hours, cost per labor, nothing. An almost empty can of spray paint, almost nothing. Just depends on how much time you have and the proper tools. Scroll saw, dremel grinder, and sand paper. Fun, couldn't put a price on it.

Jerry

Thanks to all respondents with your comments, links, and suggestions!

Here are the additional pictures of the RCA 56X2 strip down. I finally got smart and set the camera to the lowest resolution to keep them below the 256K limit. I call it the "Crack House Radio" because it looks like it's been sitting in some abandoned dump under a pigeon roost for a number of years. I mean, when the tops of the metal tubes begin to rust and the loop antenna separates and falls apart, that's neglect!

Various pictures show the dial scale glass after cleaning, a second cleaning of IF cans using Lime Away, and the removal of the tuning capacitor and soaking in vinegar. The tuning cap mounts are cracked and falling apart so will be replaced with new grommets. The mounting clips for the glass dial scale were also soaked in vinegar and then spray painted with Rustoleum flat black. Once the chassis is completely stripped down, I'm going to go over it with steel wool and then try some electroplating with nickle followed by some new saddle mounted tube sockets. I've been working on this dog while waiting for parts to arrive for other restoration projects.

It's too bad some of us can't team up and combine our skills, knowledge, and access to parts and tools. That would be awesome! Good job on your Philco back cover. Do you have any photos available? I need a way to manufacture such items myself.

Faststone is one great program with a lot of nice features. This will certainly make processing images a lot easier. I like being able to scroll through pix using the mouse wheel and then a left-click expands into a larger view. I've been using irFanView which is a bit cumbersome. Thanks!

R. Jepsen, I sent you a second PM.
Jerry

A comment on tube sockets, I agree with another poster, leave them in! One caution, the rectifier socket. Don't spray anything in it for cleaning. With the HV on that, it could well release the latent smoke out of your radio. I just smoked my second and didn't do anything to it. With the sandwich construction, stuff can get between the parts. Still waiting for a replacement for a loctal one. Leave them in and just be careful around the rectifier.
Jerry

Too late my friend. The chassis has already been stripped down and tube sockets knocked out with a hammer. I've gone over it with steel wool and going to try my hand at electroplating with nickle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8Xo43sfLgY

If you do the complete chassis in nickle, will you be able to solder anything to it? There is often an parallel RC network going from negative grounding point to chassis ground. I would mask it (and it may be necessary to mask it as the solder may contaminate the nickle plating solution). Have you considerd tin plating?

All good questions and things to consider. I guess I'll need to experiment and find out the answers. I will examine the chassis and determine any points that need solder and if a solder lug can be substituted. Thanks for the thoughtful tips.

Poof

That's an excellent suggestion. Unfortunately, I have a printer I've kept running since the Windows 95 days and it has no scanner.

Work on the Crack House Radio is progressing. I've finally finished mapping all the components and wiring so have now started removing and cleaning all parts that will be reused.

Living up to it's name, practically all wiring is cracked with insulation falling away or has hardened and become inflexible. Many wires have lost their color code over the years with blue looking a lot like green.

Below is the RCA 56X2 refurbished 1st IF transformer with new leads and the RF coil with all terminals cleared of old wiring and de-soldered. Next, the 2nd IF will have to be taken apart for similar treatment.