well I got lazy and just polished up the paint and the lens cover with some novus 2, Not perfect but shinny and I can claim it has the orig paint

Cleaned up the speaker cloth with some spray carpet cleaner, bolted it all together, Man this thing is big...

Any way it has a VERY nice OTA pic using rabbit ears and a BT 450 modulator.

Next up on my BW list is a Crosley with a TV/AM/FM tuner. No detents which will be a 1st for me on a TV. Its in a pretty decent wood cabinet so should finish up nicely.

checked the crosley out, has a 12LP4A, whoo hoo test very good. does not seem any bigger than the RCA and the mahogany looks to be in very good shape

anyone got a pic of the inside of the metal cabinet, under the ant feed side there is a metal plate with two holes in it.

My guess is there is a cabinet back mount that is supposed to go there, as there is a L shaped bracket that is mounted on the masonite back that engages nothing right now. Also there is a place for a back screw but there is nothing for the screw to go into.

Some RCA's had an interlock switch mounted to the cabinet, which was activated by a bracket on the back cover. It removed power when you opened the back to get to the tubes. Could that be what is missing from yours? If so, no big deal unless you are looking for originality. Most of them were removed and bypassed for some reason.

ah,...

there is the partial remains of a sticker about a protection by remove the cover, but there was no evidence of it being used. Perhaps it was indeed removed at some time. The AC plug is clearly NOT part of the cabinet back like most interlock safety designs, and the sticker is on the side near the bracket. Thanks Dennis no need to mess with that.

all that is left now is to wait for the slow cure epoxy to do its thing on the back where there were some breaks starting up.

One of the little mount bracket was MIA so I fab up one and attached with a small machine screw, about the size of the orig rivet, the head sunk into the masonite so as to allow access to the mount screw that goes into the metal side.

I can see this one becoming a regular for watching TCM and other B&W. Geezzz its heavy....

That cutout on cabinet is for antenna terminal strip.
The original back had four metal brackets that matched holes drilled on inside of sides of edge. There is where the screws go.
Bill Cahill

I went back and double checked the schematic and sure enough it clearly shows the "cabinet" interlock separate from the "interlock" that is referenced at the plug (so the schematic calls out two interlocks). the one the plug looks like it prevents you from getting into the HV cage.

I am aware of where the ant term strip goes, I referenced it to ID what side the TV the metal bracket in question was attached to (the side of the cabinet) there is a LARGE metal plate with a couple of holes in it that again did not seem to be for any kind of back attachement.

I don't see but two L brakets that are attached to the masonite back. the two are on the bottom of the back, and screw into the sides fo the metal. The top of the back is retained with just screws and large washers(no L brackets mounted to the masonite BACK).

The confusion was why there was an L shaped piece of steel that did not seem to function to retain the back. I am sure Denis is correct as this looks like some kind of lever that was used to disengage the AC when the back was removed.

I didn't catch Dennis's post. I agree. If the switch, and, wires are gone, i'ts not worth worrying about. If the bracket is somewhere on the ldft side, the side of power transformer, that's where the disabling switch went.
It was on the hot side of the ac line, before the main power switch.
My mistake on how many brackets. Sorry.
I haven't looked at mine for years. I am waiting for another chassis from Don Cavey. Mine is junk.
If his has the cut-off switch, I could spare mine. I think I've still got that.
Bill Cahill

something I had not noticed before, light vert bars beginning just to the right of center about 1" apart, looks like like ringing of of some kind. the bars looks like a drive bar that gets fainter as they go right.

I have heard that the damper tube deals with ringing but that would be on the far left. I did adj the horz drive trim cap to just get rid of a prominent drive bar. Did not see if it would effect this. My understanding is you want the max drive just to the point of a drive bar then back off to eliminate it, but that would be a singe bar and be left of center not right like these show up.

two things I have noticed...

width control slug does nothing (yes I have the 3 pos switch on the lowes width setting). You can see it decrease when going from the middle to the 1st postion (and wider when going to the 3rd with the cap in circuit) so its doing something just has no effect when adjusted. I have a feeling its either shorted or the slug has come unglued from the adj screw, I have seen that before when the metal screw comes unglued.

Second, after the set warms up my horz sync gets weak, starts to pull horz, does not completly break sync (well yes sometimes it will, watchin it now). guess I will have to look into the horz osc. I left a couple micamold caps in there.

You may already know this, but some micamold caps are actually paper caps. For small values, such as 270 mmf, they are most likely mica inside.

yea I figure they are true mica, 180pf and 560 pf, but I will replace anyway.

I have had strange sync problems with RCA's of that vintage and changing mica caps will usually fix it. The ones I found bad were often in the sync separator area.

CAUTION!!
Do not use ceramic disc capacitors. They are not stable enough. Use new silver mica caps.
Bill Cahill

after some use the horz and vert sync started acting up, horz mostly with wiggles etc more that complete lost of sync. also the horz width would jump around.

I went back into it and found a very weak 390pf cap in the sync circuit. I also checked the 560pf horz out grid coupling cap which I had left alone. Testing it showed it ok for value but it acted very oddly when checking for leaks. the eye would open fully as it should but then it would start to slowly close down. It would do this even at low voltage (25v). I only had a 750pf mica so I used that until I get an order in. Lastly I found a few out of spec 5% resistors in the osc circuit. the worst was a 150k that was measured at 260k the others were a 180k and a 120k both off about 50%. Before replacing these I had to turn the osc slug in T109 under the chassis fully out to get the osc to sync. Further more I could NOT set the waveform slug on the outside to match the correct waveform and keep sync. AFTER the cap and resistor replacement the horz osc screw is much closer the the orig setting, and I can adj the wave form slug to get equal peaks per the manual wave form pics.

there is still a couple micas that I would like to replace one is a large 100pf (very large body, I will check to see if it has some high voltage rating) in the sync circuit and a 180pf in the horz osc circuit. they tested ok, but fail my leakage test that I use on critical parts. the leakage test is to apply 45vdc and measure the leakage with a VTVM, compared with new parts. the very hi input impedence of the VTVM will detect leakage that even my cap tester does not. there was also a remaining 390pf that tested ok (unlike the other 390pf that lost value) that I would like to replace to to be sure.

the only other issue I have is the darn excessive width. the adj coil has some effect but its very little. Not sure hot to proceed with that...

I think the excessive width was actually two items. 1st I reduced the line voltage down to 115vac and that dropped it some, then I realized the pic was not centered horz, so I adj the focus coil to better center and now its just right, there is about 1/2" of overscan (I can shift with the horz hold and almost get to the edge one side at a time).

the width coil still does not seem to change the width when adj the slug, and the slug is indeed moving. It does do something as switching off the slug does cause an increase, and then the next setting (puts a cap in the circuit) increases it more. the other thing is the test pattern looks good so I think I need to just leave it be.

Knowing when to stop is important........but one would reasonably expect that adjusting the slug in the width coil will have at least some effect.

it has a VERY minor effect, maybe 1/32" tops (moving the slug). Switching it out changes the size about 1/4" total.