They were at 27-01 Bridge Plaza N in Long Island City. The tuner in that set was made by Mallory. Currently Andrea is a few miles East in Bohemia, NY and out of the TV business many years.

Oooooh...I'm Happy.

The Cabinet is responding nicely. Again, just Howard's and 600-grit emory paper. After a Feed-n-Wax it should present very well. I prefer bringing back origional finishes vs full restos.



After a quick compressed air session, the Chassis shows off it's virginal state and fine cad plating. Still a bit dingy, but it should clean up well.

The Glass Tuner Panel is removed and packed away. It's fine.









Couldn't tell you as of yet what type of Tuner it has. Looks Mallory-like at a glance.

The CRT and CRT Mask are DuMont, the CRT being a 12JP4.

On my way to TVDude211 to try and resusitate the CRT. Stay Tuned.

Good News. Henri (TVDude211) successfully rejuvinated the origional 12JP4 (a DuMont). It shows fair emission, just into the green (it had none before) and good contrast range. He has the golden touch.

It should spit out a good picture. It measures better than the 12JP4 in my RA-103, and that one puts out a good pic after a 5 minute warm-up.

I'm happy. The Andrea's CRT was stone cold dead before.

That's a really sharp set. Also one of the neater under chassis layouts I've seen in a TV. It's cleaning up very nicely.

Very clean. Upon closer inspection, it looks like only one component was replaced (besides tubes). Looks like one ww resistor is non-stock.

Just ordered a bunch of Caps from Mouser. They should be here tuesday. I should have the cabinet done by then.

it's looking great.

Be sure to check ALL of those resistors; that type with the faint color bands is notorious for going way up in value.

Oh, yeah. I'm checking them all.

Lee - don't want to take you off topic, but would you share your step-by-step on the Howards and Emory paper? My current Philco project looks like a good candidate, but want to try it on some scrap cases before I dive in. If this is detailed on another thread - maybe someone can point me to it - aside from the cabinet restoration forum...

Just applying the Howards made a difference, but not the kind you are getting. I am cringing at taking 600 grit paper to an old finish and just need some advice/encouragement!

Thanks,
Mark

Don't be scared, Mark. But don't go off half-cocked either.

Test it on a small, inconspicuous area if you like. Basically the steps are as follows:

1. Clean the cabinet thoroughly, remove all dirt and grime. You don't want to sand on top of grit - it will abrade the finish. I use mineral spirits so it doesn't disturb the grain, like Murphy's might.

2. Put some Howards on a 3 by 3" area, and sand gently with the grain, stopping every 5 or 10 light passes, removing the Howards with a paper towel to check your work. Repeat until the desired patina appears, finish is even, etc.

3. If it looks good, keep going from square to square. Then do a finish pass over the whole length of the cabinet to even everything out.

4. Clean thoroughly.

5. Finish with Howards Feed n Wax. Buff to a shine.

Of course if 600 grit scares you, there is wet-or-dry sandpaper for automotive refinishing readily available at most decent auto supply stores in 1000 and 2000 grit and I think you can get even finer than that, but I don't see the need for going beyond 2000.

Yes. I should specify that if the finish is rough or fairly smooth, that will determine what grade emory paper you start with. Heavy checking? 600 or 800 grit. Not so bad? 1000 or 1500.

Finish off with 1500 or 2000.

Just received the Cap Order from Mouser. Hopefully I can fire her up this weekend.

Excellent - I think I'll give that a try next weekend. Thanks for the detail.

Well. She's up and running, somewhat.

I get a raster, but no signal, regardless of the input selection. I get a buzz thru the speaker.

It's like the Mallory Tuner is dead - no effect on any band when I tune the dial from one end of the range to the other.

I'll be concentrating on the Tuner. You guys have any ideas?

Good possibility.

On mine one of the sliders had come out of place inside the tuner, I just took it apart, cleaned and lubed it and reassembled it, worked fine after that.

Getting the sliders back in place is a bit tricky but not all that hard once you get the hang of it.
They have to be synchronized to reach the end of the spiral at the same time, one spiral is wound in the reverse of the others.

I agree with Eric, the Mallory Inductuners were good, but every once in a while needed to be opened up and cleaned and lubricated. That's certainly one place to start. My old boss was a former DuMont factory service tech and had them down to a science.

Next after cleaning if it still doesn't work try measuring tube voltages in the IF strip and the B+ voltage feeding the tuner. Note that a dead IF stage will also cause the same symptoms. I would be tempted to feed the IF output from a known working tuner in another chassis (doesn't matter what brand as long as the video IF frequency is the same) into the IF input on this chassis to see if I could get video through it.

I think I found one Inductuner with a bad tubular ceramic cap in the osc section but that was back in the 60's. Other than that I don't recall any major problems other than the shafts breaking on certain versions.

The sliders are all in place and synchronized. Everything has been cleaned and lubed, looks real pretty, and moves fine.

I think the audio output transformer might be dead. I unsoldered one of the thin bare copper wire leads and measured it against it's other twin for resistance and found it open.

I also measured the three Filter Chokes, L1, L2 and L3. They all measure close to specs.

Lee does the AM radio work? that has its own input and not from the Mallory tuner. If not recheck voltages. If AM ok then suspect tuner problem . If Am is fine the audio section is not one of your problems.