Here's the thread on the total restoration - and the answers to all your questions:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=121340

Clean it up, examine the underside of the chassis, then decide. No rush...

This morning I disassembled my GE 805. Looks like it is in "as found" condition and pretty much original.

Hooked up my Sencore CR70 and found that the Cutoff for the 10BP4 was very weak:



I have no experience with dealing with a weak Cutoff. No Shorts. Emission is very strong. Life Test was very strong.

Some parts found - pieces of a mirror:

Chassis is very dirty - maybe a better word is nasty.
Fortunately, the case design kept Mr. Mouse out and there is no rust.


Is there supposed to be a top for the Flyback cage - mine does not have one?

Might try taking it outside and hosing it off.

Looks like I'll have to remove front section of the chassis to get the 10BP4 out.

Carl

The CRT is secured at the front by a rubber padded bracket. Two screws secure it. Remove the bracket, and the CRT lifts out.

I sprayed my chassis with Spray Nine, swirled a paint brush on all the surfaces top and bottom, rinsed it, blew dried it, and put it in the oven at 125 deg F for 3 hours, baking it dry.

Then I recapped it. Came out fine. And clean. See the Andrea T-VK12 thread to see how pristene it can come out.

I removed the band around the top of the 10BP4.
The front part of the chassis is blocking me to extract the CRT.
The neck of the 10BP4 is still in the Yoke and Deflection Coil.
There are screws that I can remove and drop the chassis part with the speaker and controls but I wonder if there is another way.

Below shows the chassis blocking the removal of the CRT.

Does the W stamp on the front mean I have the "W" version of the production run?



Its confusing as I also have letter stamps on the back of the chassis:



Carl

My GE 805 Flyback cage has no top - is this typical?

It isn't that hard. A little patience and perseverance and you will prevail.

When you rinsed your chassis, did you spray water on the Flyback Transformer?
I'm thinking of washing my chassis too.

Carl

Yes, you are missing the top of the HV cage. Here is what mine looks like. According to Riders, there was an Early, S, T, & W version. You probably have the W if that is what is stamped on yours. I have the early version.

Doug

Thanks Doug. I might try to fabricate a cover for the Flyback cage. Need to find where I can source some material that looks like yours in the picture you provided.

Carl

What did you clean your chasis with besides hosing it off? Your's is a lot cleaner than mine. BTW, looking in you HV cage, you can see those 2 global filament resistors. Plenty of room in there to replace them with 2 wirewound units.

Doug

Spray Nine. Good stuff.

Check out the details on my Globar replacements in the thread. The Boys steered me towards the right parts.

Your chassis is different than mine. I don't know how you lift the CRT free out of the chassis.

There were a ton of variations on this chassis.

When you replace all those Electrolytics, use 450 volt axial versions, as they are larger and easier to fit in the clamp mounts. Use thick rubber tape (Home Depot) to wrap them to widen their diameter so they fit nice and snug.

Lee, when you rinsed your chassis, did you protect the flyback and other coils from the water?

Carl

No. Not really. Transformers and chokes you have to watch out for. Bag those if they are on your chassis.

Careful...Blow off the water and bake right afterwards. 125 degrees f, no more.

I'm going this morning to try to get some Spray Nine. According to their Website, Napa is supposed to have it. However, if the little Napa near me actually has it, I'll be surprised.

Doug

Home Depot has it.