Need some ideas on how to successfully remove paper labels from 1930's chassis and re-install them after the chassis is cleaned and restored? Have tried water, lighter fluid, lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol so far with no success. I would like to save the originals if possible.

Thanks, Greg

This was just addressed over the past few days in this posting.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=186757

Yes, I saw that thread but did not find anything there that addressed my question. I'll rephrase the question slightly...

In the course of trying water, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner (acetone) and lighter fluid I managed to ruin the label that was attached to the chassis that I am in the process of cleaning and restoring. Not a problem as I have a parts set that has a good label and if I can find out what solvent disolves the glue I will be in business. I was able to remove fragments of glue residue from the project chassis after the damaged label was cleaned away and I can use these fragments to test in various solvents. I will probably stop by the hardware store on the way home tonight to get turpentine to try next but I thought I would post the question here in case someone has an idea what disolves the adhesive. The chassis is a 1937 National NC-80X.

Thanks, Greg

Hi Greg,
I can understand your frustration. I don't think turpentine will dissolve it either.

Some manufacturers used different adhesives, that's a common thing.
What some of have found is that on a bakelite cabinet, the label adhesive could be dissolved uing acetone. But it wasn't going to just release right away . They had to use a cloth wetted with the acetone, and left on the label for over an hour. It was not allowed to dry out.
Some said the label came right off.
Whether that would work for your chassis, I don't know. If you still had remnants of the runined label on the chassis, you could try to keep it wet with acetone and see what happens.

Again, this would depend on the glue used.
I would suggest though that you make a high res photo of the good label. It's good to keep on hand in case someone has no label at all.
If all else fails, you could create your own as a last resort. Thre are ways to print it on various papers that should be close to the original. You wouldn't use squeeky clean white paper to make a label. Even trying to 'age' the paper using tea or coffee still doesn't look right.

What to do? I've printed labels using paper from old books. You can always find old books with blank pages. The paper may be the right type, and already as an aged look. You just have to hunt around for the right thickness, color and texture. Print using Best Quality setting.
After printing, spray a clear matte finish on both sides to help protect the ink. Spray lightly as you don't want the inks to dissolve.

We like to keep things original as possible, so I understand.

Hope this helps.

There is a label remover about a third of the way down the page. Look for archival solvents so the label doesn't get damaged.

http://www.libraryjournal.com/lj/community/buildingandfacilities/891542-266/whats_hot_the_latest_in.html.csp

No, I can just about guarantee that stuff isn't going to work at all.
Basically, that is a gummed label remover. Bar codes, price stickers, etc. GooGone or even WD40 will remove labels like that. They are comparitively fresh, gummy, compared to the glues applied on radio labels 60+ years ago.

The only thing I've heard of that removes the labels from bakelite is the acetone method.
Even then, it is kind of dicey as to if the glue has dissolved all the way or not.

Removing labels should be avoided at all costs. Before doing any removal stuff, make your high res photos first. You can make a repro label using period papers salvaged from old books or paper goods. Printing on bright white paper looks terrible, even if you "age" with coffee or tea. I think I am repeating myself

If acetone doesn't work, it's likely fish glue. Heat and moisture would probably soften it, but unfortunately that's also an excellent way to make paper pulp.

I side with Gary on this one. Hi res photo and reprint. The idea of using old paper is a great one too. By the time a person messes around with solvents etc to find one that works, the original label will be in pretty sad shape.

I agree and that is probably what I will have to do, but if the original is in good shape I would like to learn how to save it if possible. My personal goal with each restoration is not necessarily to make it look and work brand new again but to make it appear the clock has been turned back a little by preserving as much original content as possible.

Thanks, Greg

Can you carefully just clean around the labels? It maybe better to just leave them intact.

More background info...

The label on the chassis I am restoring had some damage but I have a parts chassis with a good label. Had the first label been OK I would have masked it off with a piece of clear plastic sheet stock and proceeded in the usual fashion but since it was damaged I decided to experiment to see if I could identify a solvent for the adhesive used. After four attempts with different solvents it was completely ruined so it was removed (glue is still there though) but the parts chassis gives me one more shot at it. Thanks for the great responses so far!

Greg

In hindsight, would it have been better to leave your original label alone? Now, it is gone and in a deeper delemma, sort of.
I'd rather accept a small amount of damage, than to have a now fully damaged label.
Was half the label missing?

For most of us, it's not like trying to get a perfect label to enter in a concours show. If that were the case, you can spend $$ on getting an exact, perfectly recreated label.

Unless you heve a chemist analyze the glue, ($$) then make a solvent, your quest to remove the label might never happen. Then with the proper solvent, who is to say it won't damage the ink, or the paper itself?
Some thngs may never respond to a solvent.

Get high res photos of the good label, and go from there. If you need help in cleaning up the image or filling in places, I"d be happy to help.

Lacquer thinner and acetone are two different things. Acetone usually works to remove labels.

To make printed labels look old dip the new label in tea and let it sit for awhile. Then pull it out and let it dry!!

Thanks Gary, and to many others here also for the helpful tips and suggestions. In this particular case it probably would have been better to save the original now that I realize the likelyhood of damage in attempting to remove the good label from a parts set. The best choice now looks like it will be to scan the good label and make a replacement on old paper.

Greg

Hi Greg,
You probably won't be able to scan the label, unless you can get it to lay flat on the scanner glass.
Second option, the high res photo. Straight on, camera on a tripot or solid mount, even lighting.

What kind of paper is it printed on? Slick? Metallic? Rough paper? Hunt around for something that is the same. A paper bag, old book blank pages, use your imagination.
Get a piece of it, and send it through the printer.

Can you show us a photo of what you are dealing with?
Keep in touch

He might be able to use a handheld scanner:

http://www.amazon.com/PS410-600DPI-Colo ... 186&sr=8-3

should work fine.

Good idea, just got a handheld scanner. Next order of business is to remove the chassis from the parts set. As per Gary's suggestion I will post a picture of the label soon as I can get to it.

Thanks all!
Greg G

Good deal. I use it for my corporate espionage missions and secret deals. the higher dpi the better

This may be very odd, but the VERY best way to remove labels is to microwave them. I've done it with non-radio items. After a short run, the label will simply slip off.