with out a schematic its tough to say, but I would stick with the tuner section, if it has a converter/mixer I would check there next (that is if its separate from the osc). Nothing on the AM means that if you can get the AM the tv may work.

make sure any band switch wires are not broken, if you have a signal generater I would start there with an IF AM modulated signal at last IF and start working back.

Well...finally...the Chassis is fully up and running, thanks to my good friend and mentor Dick Slade.

What was holding it back? Me, and my bone-headed mistakes.

I was so blinded by restuffing caps and making everything look circa 1948 that I missed some critical wiring when replacing caps.

All...My...Fault.

But she's running fine, and the cabinet came out beautiful. I'll have pics in a day or two.

Thanks, All.

We've all been there, several times in my case.

Thanks for the inspiration Lee.

Your work got me to check the CRT in my VK12 yesterday and it is in the green. I bought mine about 2 years ago so I think that it is about time to get it up and running.

I call it "can't see the forest for the trees" syndrome. You focus hard on some detail and become blind to something obvious. Like the sign painter who's intent on forming perfect letters and doesn't notice a big spelling mistake.

Phil Nelson

I call it the "You Dummy!" syndrome, via Fred Sanford,

Lee

That's great news! Can't wait to see it!!

Steve

Hey, Steve...you're always welcome 'round here.

OK, I'm at Tweaking and Final Assembly Stages:

One thing I learned was swapping 6BG6s and 5V4s to come up with the best combination of the two to achieve the best horizontal drive, linearity, and picture width characteristics on this particular chassis. I pretty much scored a bull's eye.







The Cabinet is (finally) where I want it. I saved the origional finish by wet sanding and reflowing the lacquer, and with three thin coats of Varethane Semi-Gloss, I hand rubbed it to a protected, vintage patina shine. I left a couple of 'beauty marks' in the origional finish so it's not overly restored.







It's working fine now, outside of the loudspeaker, which has a blown voice coil. I'd like to send it out to be rebuilt. Any ideas where I should send it?

Also, I was wondering whether I should reflow all the solder joints under the chassis. Am I tempting fate, or should I leave it alone...?

A very worthy addition to your collection of beautiful sets. Top shelf as usual. You get them
done so quick. Mine seem to take forever. Nice job!

Question: Should I reflow all the solder joints under the chassis ?

...or, am I tempting the Gods?

The Speaker Shop in N. Lima, Ohio does excellent work as do several others that you will see mentioned on this forum. Talk to Nick Dorazio. Your set looks so good now that I've upped my previous offer to $75.00.

In general you should not. If a specific joint looks like it was not soldered correctly or the joint looks to be cracked, then re-solder it. You always have to add new solder so as to get new flux in order to get the solder to flow.

I agree. A cold joint is pretty easy to tell and usually not an issue with these, more of an solid state
or circuit board thing.

All done. Works just fine, all inputs.

I just touched up some marginal solder joints, loaded it into the cabinet, and tweaked the picture to fit the mask.

She has a pretty good AM and FM Tuner. No ALC, but I don't mind. I have a 5" DuMont loudspeaker from an RA-103 mounted on an adapter. I'm sending the origional speaker out for repair.







The origional 12JP4 Picture Tube is a little washed out. I'm using a brightener. The CRT has a prominent Ion Burn about a silver dollar in size.

I also have an NOS 12QP4 I'd like to use, but I don't think I have the correct Ion Trap, because when I mounted it in the Andrea, I can only get a shadowy, dark image on the screen at the best trap setting. That image is only visible in a dark room.

Does it take a certain size magnet to bring out it's brightest picture? The emissions on the 12QP4 measures excellent.

Very nice Lee!!

Steve

The data sheet for the 12QP4 calls for a single field Ion Trap, if you can't get it to work might it be because the neck is too short to stick out far enough beyond the Focus Coil?

Yeah, I thought of that.

If you mount the 12QP4, and reposition the Focus Coil, will that throw it beyond Focus Control adjustment range? Or, does the short neck 12QP4 REQUIRE you to adjust the focus coil closer to the front of the CRT?

I just retested the 12QP4. It tests as new.

Since the 12QP4 is designed for magnetic focus I don't see why it wouldn't work in this set, possibly the coil is located too far back, if it can be slid forward you might try that. (you have tried flipping the Ion trap front to rear?)
You might also see if it works with the Focus coil removed from the neck of the tube, focus will probably be lousy but it should allow you to get a raster.

I'll try it. Right now, I'm watching "Mad Men." I'm addicted to that show.

Tomorrow...