I'm trying to get a Webcor record changer (Model # 158) to behave and change records. There seems to be no way to dismantle the changer mechanism. Almost all of it is riveted in place. Very difficult to clean, let alone work on.

The tone arm won't move fully out of the way of dropping records (stopping at about the 10" position). Also, it no longer will go back and set down on the record if I pull it out of the way. The size finder doesn't always come out, and sometimes gets stuck.

Is there a service manual for this changer? Any hints, tips, or tricks to make it behave?





The changer mechanism (riveted in):








Another issue is that the amplifier is very noisy and hissy/crackly. The paper caps have been replaced, but not the filter caps - yet... There are FIVE of them: two on the pre-amp, and three on the power amp (Webcor phono model 1862) and I don't have them on-hand. Cleaned the tube sockets, and swapped out the rectifier (5Y3-GT) and it quieted down some, but not completely.

Additionally, I can't find any way to adjust the stylus pressure which seems way too heavy. What is the secret to adjusting it?

Thanks,
Gerry

1. Degrease and relube anything on the bottom that moves/slides.
2. The platter should be held in by a snap ring in the middle by the spindle. You will probably have
to pry it out with a screwdriver to get the platter off. Watch where it flies....
3. The arm weight is probably not adjustable. If it is, it's probably a spring. These are not
seventies turntables. They track heavy.

Also replace the filter caps and then see what it sounds like. Those would have been the first caps
I replaced.

These Webcor changers can be tricky until you get them right, but once they're right they work very well and they're pretty easy on mono records.
I'm afraid that I have no service info on this model, I winged it when I did mine.



Careful with that generic advice, the Webcor velocity trip mechanism and felt washer should be clean and dry, no oil or grease.

Ken D.

My bad. I saw that in the photo too.

The real problem is that I can't get to many of the parts to really clean them. I've done a hundred or so changers, but mostly V-M and Collaro/Magnavox. Later models Gararrd or BSR also. Most changers can be completely dismantled and each piece scrubbed, reassembled and re-lubed and all is well. It can't be done on this one. So, how do you manage it with it all together?

As for the filter caps, I'm out of them and they're $3.29 a piece, plus shipping. Not in my budget right now, so they will have to wait. It's not mine, so if the owner wants it done, he can shell out the $$$. (After checking the schematic, they used cans for all the E-caps. Only two of the five are being used for line filter caps.) Hopefully that solves the snap, crackle, pop.

Can't adjust the weight? That sucks. Never had one - other than acoustic - that couldn't be adjusted. I suppose the needle may be worn out; it changes the color of the groove as it plays. Sounds ok, but that color change isn't a good thing. Just thrift store frisbees, thankfully.

This Webcor Musicale is one of the strangest beasts I've ever run across. No wonder I've always disliked Webcor.

Q-tips work pretty well for me when I can't completely disassemble something.

What type of e-caps does that thing take? It's not AC-DC?

Not that familiar with later Webcor's as some have already mentioned so I'm not positive if you
can adjust the weight or not. Maybe someone else knows. I've done a few older ones and they
were easy and reliable.

I've tried Q-Tips, but they can't get it all. One rod in particular has a spring wrapped around it, and I can't get all the old oil and dirt off of it. I'm half-tempted to just dunk that corner of the changer in a bowl of alcohol or something and let it soak for a while...

The e-caps are two 35 MFD @ 300V and two 40 MFD @ 375V, and one 40 MFD @ 25V... All I can find are 40 MFD @ 450V, and they're $3.29 each, and one 40 MFD @ 160V, $1.25.

Did you check Mouser?
Must be a transformer set with those voltage ratings.

Believe it or not, they do come apart but you have to be prepared to disconnect the tone arm leads at the terminal strip and remove the tone arm, once the tone arm shaft slides out the felt clutch pads can be cleaned. It's a real job.

Chances are, it's not the filters that are causing hiss and noise. They usually cause a power supply hum even with the volume all the way down. Even when used as cathode bypass they do not usually cause noise. Does the noise increase with volume or tone control settings?

Try rocking the tubes in their sockets with the amp running, volume up, bass and treble set at maximum to determine if you have dirty tube socket contacts. Lightly tap on each of the tubes with a plastic screw driver handle to determine if there is a noisy tube.

Tone arm tracking force was adjustable on earlier models. there is a wheel with holes in it at the pivot end of the tone arm. An allen wrench could be inserted into one of the holes to rotate the wheel, changing the tension on the counterbalance spring. They normally tracked around 6-8 grams with the factory installed ceramic cartridge, any lighter they won't track well.

I have not checked Mouser. I only use them as a last resort when I can't get what I need from JustRadios.com. His site is much easier to order from than Mouser, and Mouser screws up my bank account by holding an "estimated" amount, and then charging the "actual" amount with shipping, before that hold drops off. So - I have to have double the amount in the account I use for this. I got hit with a $35 fee thanks to them. Fortunately, I talked the bank into reversing that fee because that wasn't my fault.

In any case, it isn't mine. I'm fixing it for a friend. I don't mind putting out for the smaller caps since I had them on hand, but if he wants those e-caps replaced, he'll have to give me the cash first so I can put it in the bank account.

It has a transformer:



Not sure where I would put the e-caps on the pre-amp; it's a board with no room underneath. I'd probably have to mount them next to it and run wires to it:

The noise only increases in volume, not frequency. I've already cleaned the sockets with Deoxit, which seemed to help some, and replaced three of the five tubes. The two output tubes (12AB5) I don't have replacements for, so I merely swapped them after cleaning the sockets. Didn't seem to make a difference there. Only when I replaced the 5Y3-GT did there seem to be a reduction in the noise. If it's those output tubes, the owner will have to purchase them.

I do see a pivot rod with a heavy-duty spring wrapped around it under the base of the tone arm. It does have a small hole through it. Is that what you're referring to? I don't have a way to measure the tracking force, but just by feel it seems like it's between 10 and 20 grams right now, as compared to a V-M that's set around 6 grams or so. I believe it still has the original Sonotone cartridge. The edges of the cartridge sometimes drag on the record if there is any warp, or if there are 4 - 6 records stacked on the platter. The edges of the cartridge mostly stay only a hair's width above the record as it is currently.

I buy all my caps from Joe's capacitors. The best things about Joe is there is no minimum. You can just buy 3 electrolytics if you want and nothing else. Another good thing is he is in the US on the east coast so shipping is cheap compared to Just Radios and you get your order within a couple days not weeks. Do a Google search and his web site comes right up.

If for some reason you don't want or can't get this Webcor apart try using carb cleaner or electrical cleaner in a spray can with the long red tube nozzle. You should be able to shoot it into very tight spots and get the the as clean as possible without disassembling. It is not the right way to do things but should get the task done. One word of caution though carb cleaner is very corrosive and will destroy certain plastics and remove certain paints the moment it touches it. So use extreme caution and precision when spraying it.

What Doug said

Thank you all so much for your help! I just knew you guys would have the answers.

Here are all your caps for $5.11 total. USPS priority is your cheapest shipping option so you might want to add on a few parts for other projects. You can PM me the values if you find mouser's site daunting, which many do. I would be glad to help anyone with Mouser. I have used it hundreds of times and know the tricks.

http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager ... 687f8e2201


33uF for the 35uF, 39uF for the 40uF - those four at 400 volts. And the cathode bypass cap is 39uF at 25 V and it only has a few volts across it.

Best of luck.