What are these Lego looking terminal strips that everything is wired into called?

Are the terminal pegs on top of the chassis used to test the TV?

Are these kind of strips found in many TV's?

It seems like these would be nice to use if you were designing your own project because everthing looks so clean under the chassis.







Thanks for any info on these strips ahead of time. Kris

Those were not such a good idea. If a wire or component lead did not take solder well it was not obvious and some TVs left the factory with problems waiting to happen.

Thanks for the info John. This is the GE 21C202 I picked up on the side of the road last year. I was thinking about stripping down the chassis because I need to get rid of some of the TV's I don't think I will ever get working. Now that I have the chassis out I was having second thoughts because it looks really easy to recap. But since you say these strips are known to have problems I will probably just strip it down.

I found the schematic in sams folder 194. I am just trying to identify the parts with the schematic for now. If anything this will be a good set to learn with.

Kris

I would expect that most any problems due to poor joints leaving the factory would have already been found and fixed by now.

We had real problems with those old GE's, but as stated, most likely all the problems were already
corrected. We would just re-flow solder into each post and that would cure 90 percent of the
problems that were reported. When the things were working, they looked good.

Check it out before you strip it down.

Clayton

Those solder strips put a lot of money in my pocket, but they sure also wasted a lot of my time and solder. It was not uncommon to see multiple bad connections. Sometimes I would have to heat connections and pull components out, clean the leads, and resolder. I would not let the TV go back to the customer without a couple of hours of burning in because symptoms the owner didn't even mention could pop up.

Zenith used them heavily in their 1960s color sets, and in their B&W sets as far back as 1958. The ground connections would sometimes open up, where they were soldered to the chassis. They also eventually used tube sockets made the same way. Motorola also tried them in the 1960s, on some of their color sets.

I always called them "cone connectors".

I've seen those on quite a few Zeniths and Motorolas. I'm sure at the time they were viewed as an improvement in manufacturing productivity and cost, since one simply needed to jam the wire of a component into the cone rather than wrap the wire around a terminal. As long as they soldered OK, they work well. But it sounds like not every manufacturer took all the necessary steps to make sure that everything soldered well all the time.

Thanks for the info guys. Did they fill then with solder from the top or bottom?

I pulled out a B&K 400 CRT tester I bought at an auction last year. I changed out the only 2 caps I found inside, I replaced the 5 mfd 250 volt with a 10 mfd 450 volt and the .1 1000 volt with a .1 640 volt (These were the closest caps I could find and I figured they were close enough to do one test.)

I followed the directions for the tester and the light came on as it should when powered on but none of the lights came on for the short test and the meter did not move for the emission test. I think the tester has a bad tube, transformer, resistor or something else is wrong with it. I will test the tube and hope for the best but if it does not test bad then I will just buy a CRT tester that is guaranteed working.

Kris

Do you have any working CRT TVs in the house? If so, try your CRT tester on one of those. That should let you know if the tester is working or not.

Edited with update:

I tested the 6X4 tube in the CRT tester and it is good.

There is a small selenium rectifier in the tester. I put my ohm meter on it and I did get an ohm reading but I have heard it is always good to replace them. I don't see any markings on it. What should I replace it with?

If anyone has a schematic for the B&K 400 CRT tester I could use it.

Thanks for the help.
Kris

You could replace the selinium with a 1N4007, but then check a schematic when you get it and add the appropriate dropping resistor to bring the B+ into line what it should be.

Also find the correct voltage rated capacitor and install it. They didn't use high voltage caps unless they had to in those units.
Have you called B&K to try to get a schematic? They have always been one of the more responsive companies to customer needs, at least in my own experiences.

Thanks for the suggestion Frank. I contacted them just now via their website. Hopefully I hear back from them. For now I will replace the selenium with a 1N4007 and I will wait to find out what size resistor I need to use.

I will place an order online for some caps and get the correct ones in it before I try to do any more testing.

Kris

They are also used in the transistor Transoceanics, with similar results. Lots of them in the case of the Royal 7000. Occasionally you will see a particular terminal that wants to completely repel solder. I have taken to reflowing them all with a big-boy soldering gun and that has solved a lot of frustrating intermittent problems.

Brett

I got the schematic via email today from B&K. Thanks a lot for the suggestion Frank.
I still don't have the correct voltage caps and RadioShack here in town never has the caps or resistors I need in stock. I went in there asking for the 1000 volt cap and 68K ohm resistors. The guy told me the closest they make to 68k these days are 100k. I knew better but I let him believe it and I even bought the 100k resistors just to be nice.

Kris