Anybody have a schematic and service manual for the Zenith porthole G2350Z? If not, any sources?
Thanks,
Ben

Ben, welcome to ARF Antique TV forum. The G2350Z designation is not specific enough.
Look inside your TV, there should be a sticker that identifies the tube placements and on that sticker is a "chassis number" -- an example is 24H21, 24G26.

Then go to this website ...
http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_schem ... grams.html
... and scroll to the bottom for the Zenith Service Manuals, and download the one that matches your Chassis number.

Show us some pictures of your Porthole. A lot of us like to see them.

Carl

According to the Riders index, the 2350Z is the "Ensign" model with 23G24 chassis.

I don't have it yet but I have generally identified it through the photo I've attached. I'm going to go grab it tomorrow if everything looks good. Anything specifically I should look for? I wish I had a CRT tester. Should I pull the chassis and take a look? If the grill cloth is any indication and it's original, that's a pretty good sign. It has all of the knobs etc and the guy said he got it from an estate sale where there were a bunch of other sets, tubes and test gear. The owner was either a collector or retired serviceman.

I'm like most collectors--looking for that mint vintage car that grandma drove to church once a week--for $50!
Thanks,
Ben

(EDIT) Thanks for the link to the schematics!

Pulling the chassis won't tell you a heck of a lot more than simply looking into the back with a flashlight. Look for heavy rust or obviously burned-up things. Dirt -- even lots of grimy dirt -- is normal, so don't let that scare you.

If you don't have a CRT tester, you can test the CRT's heater for continuity using an ohmmeter. After finding the schematic, you can look up the CRT's data sheet here:

http://tubedata.tigahost.com/tubedata/

That will tell you which pins on the CRT base are heater pins. For instance, on a type 12UP4 picture tube, the heater pins are 1 and 12.

Putting the ohmmeter probes on the heater pins, if you test infinity, then the heater's burned out and the tube's a dud. If you test a few ohms, the heater is intact and should light up. The picture tube still may have low emission and be dim, but at least it's not completely gone.

Other than the picture tube, the rest of the tubes are readily available, so it's no biggie if a few are missing or broken.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

I have one, which I restored, and they are a wonderful addition to any collection.

Nice set Lee! The curves on this model are what I really like.
Since you have one of these models I'm assuming the pin outs on the CRT are the same as the one I'm going to look at tomorow. Could you tell me which ones are the heater? I'm going to take my meter and check it. If the CRT is bad I'm not going to pay as much.

Carefully pull the connector off the end of the CRT.
Hold on to the black plastic piece that is permanently attached to the
CRT and with other hand pull off the connector.
Do it this way as the black plastic base on the CRT sometimes are loose.
You don't want to yank off that black plastic base and potentially ruin the CRT
or at best cause you a lot of work having to line up the individual wires to replace it.
A little carefulness here is always a good practice.
Not a big deal if it is just loose - a little super glue will fix that.

With the connector off, now test the filament.
Like Phil mentioned to test pins 1 and 12, look
for the notch on the CRTs black plastic end and
put your ohmmeter on the pin right of the notch and on the left of the notch.
You should read just a few ohms.

Hope you get it and post back here your progress.
Lee's example it a lot of eye candy and Portholes like that are very desirable.
Feel lucky none of us saw it:-)

Carl

Thank you Carl! Yes, she is a sexy thing pictures later tonight.

Oh, one more thing. They guy said he didn't plug it in but that's one thing I'll never take for granted. What is the procedure for discharging the CRT?
Thanks again--Ben

Here's all that Sam's had for it:

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/859/ ... 24bjpg.jpg

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3705/z ... 24ajpg.jpg

1- Unplug AC power cord of course.
2- Take with you a alligator clip lead and an insulated screw driver.
3- Connect one lead somewhere on the metal chassis and the other end of the clip lead to the metal part of the screwdriver.
4- Holding the screwdriver by the insulating handle, touch the metal part of the screwdriver to the CRT metal bell housing. The metal bell housing is painted either black or red.

5- If you see a thick wire that goes into the body of the CRT, push the screwdriver under the rubber cover to find the metal clip to get it discharged.

Take with you both phillips and straight screwdrivers so you can get the metal cover off the back.

Carl

Thanks Carl--pretty straight forward. I'm taking my DDM and tool set as well as a schematic so I can show the seller what I'm doing.
Ben