UPDATE: 04-16-12...7-Ey-1EF first restore.

13crhuber · **Posted:** Apr Mon 16, 2012 7:16 pm

MaryAntoinette wrote:

I watched the series of YouTube videos that you recommended. I went and bought some Naval Jelly and I have been using it....over, and over....lots of rust, yuck. I will be painting the top, appliance spray paint possibly if I can find the proper color? I watched the RP-190 videos by "fortyfiveplayer" and actually took mine apart by watching, pressing pause, copy what was done, repeat. That is how I got it apart, if not for that video I would not have been able to do it...I am really glad he has videos on how to put them back together. Roflmao!

Oh, Get This! When I opened up the motor....It was COMPLETELY BONE DRY with not one bit of lubrication in it. I was baffled quite honestly, I wiped my fingers over everything several times, nothing. :shock:

That's how I restored my first rp 190! The nice thing about those are, other record changers from the same period are somewhat similar with more moving parts. I'm working on an rp 205 from an RCA new orthophonic and it is very similar but still more complex.

Glad the videos helped,
Cody

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Tue 17, 2012 5:43 pm

[quote="tubeAMP"]looks like the platter deck needs to come-off scraped wire brushed sanded treated sanded primed sanded and painted to get it right
quote]

Absolutely by no means am I looking forward to that part! I don't mind the mechanics of things but stripping, sanding, painting, etc. is not my cup of tea! ugh! :roll:

tubeAMP · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 12:17 am

I know what you say. but once you get into it not so bad a little at a time. just that one little piece. I be so proud

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 8:50 pm

MaryAntoinette wrote:

Absolutely by no means am I looking forward to that part! I don't mind the mechanics of things but stripping, sanding, painting, etc. is not my cup of tea! ugh! :roll:

If your boyfriend works on antique cars he probably has this part down. Time for him to contribute!

-David

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 9:11 pm

He works mostly on the mechanical stuff, he is an amazing mechanic...he didn't paint the Chevelle though, he had someone else do it, lol.
I may be whining about it but, I think I can handle it, or at least I hope I can. lol :lol:

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 9:14 pm

We have a true painting expert on this forum, bastardbus. He does incredible work. BB, what say you?

You might also search for a thread awhile back where a close color match for the RP-190 paint was identified.

-David

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 9:22 pm

So, the spindle cap has been soaking for about 3 days now, taking it out now and then and using a toothbrush to get the paint off. The majority did come off but, I think the old nail polish ate away at the plastic because the plastic has the same grooves and swirls in it as the nail polish did the way it was painted. (did that make any sense?) Either I need a new spindle cap? or I may try to match the color of the face plate and paint the cap...any suggestions?

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 10:36 pm

You may be able to carefully polish the swirls out if they are not too deep. You can get plastic polish that you can apply with a buffing attachment to a drill or a dremel tool.

-David

Eickerman · **Joined:** Jan Fri 06, 2012 8:47 pm **Posts:** 2434

There was a pretty good description of how to deal with surface blemishes in plastics (usually scratches, but swirls counts) over here: http://www.rx8club.com/archive/index.php/t-71424.html

Curtis Eickerman

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 11:00 pm

Thanks, Guys! You have been such a great help.

Now, I am sorry to ask this, I know it is probably like beating a dead horse but, I have searched thread after thread and can't get the short sweet answer I need...I end up reading through a lot of bickering, lol... :wink:

Anyways....Where OH Where do I actually put the oil in the motor? Like I mentioned before, when I opened it up it was bone dry with not a hint of oil or residue....where exactly do I put the oil? I am not good with the names of parts so that might be getting me like bearings? and such. Please help. The motor is ready to be put back together with new grommets, just needs to be oiled. :sigh:

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 11:22 pm

Most of us like to use Zoom-Spout Turbine Oil available at ACE Hardware. It is a very high quality, non-gumming oil in a convenient package. Place two or three drops onto each of the foam oil reservoirs, and place one or two drops onto each end of the rotor shaft just above the bearing so the oil runs down into the bearing. Loosen the bearing retainers, strike each bearing with the handle of a screwdriver, and raise and drop the rotor shaft a couple of times. Then tighten the bearing retainers. This is to allow the bearings to self-align to the rotor. Give the rotor a spin -- it should spin very easily without friction and continue spinning for several seconds.

-David

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 11:33 pm

dberman51 wrote:

Most of us like to use Zoom-Spout Turbine Oil available at ACE Hardware. It is a very high quality, non-gumming oil in a convenient package. Place two or three drops onto each of the foam oil reservoirs, and place one or two drops onto each end of the rotor shaft just above the bearing so the oil runs down into the bearing. Loosen the bearing retainers, strike each bearing with the handle of a screwdriver, and raise and drop the rotor shaft a couple of times. Then tighten the bearing retainers. This is to allow the bearings to self-align to the rotor. Give the rotor a spin -- it should spin very easily without friction and continue spinning for several seconds.

-David

Thanks, David...so, I do not have to put oil directly on the rotor (cylindrical thing that spins and is grooved?)? Do the foam oil reservoirs look like washers? I have seen videos with the taking apart, putting back together and tapping the sides with the handle of a screwdriver, but never actually saw the act of putting the oil where it belongs. sheesh. lol.

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 11:47 pm

No, you don't want to get any oil onto the rotor itself. It doesn't contact anything, it spins inside the pole pieces (the motor body) but doesn't touch it. The only areas of contact are between the rotor shaft and thrust washers and the bearing bushings.

The foam reserviors are the round pads inside the top and bottom bearing retainers, around the bearing bushings. They should be saturated with oil.

When you reinstall the rotor and the bearing retainers, make sure that the motor body is oriented the way it was originally. It is possbile for it to be installed upside-down, which will make the motor run backwards!

-David

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Wed 18, 2012 11:51 pm

dberman51 wrote:

The foam reserviors are the round pads inside the top and bottom bearing retainers, around the bearing bushings. They should be saturated with oil.

-David

I do not recall seeing any round pads in there....I will have to double check when I get home. Leaving work in 10 minutes. Thanks!

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Thu 19, 2012 2:52 am

MaryAntoinette wrote:

dberman51 wrote:

The foam reserviors are the round pads inside the top and bottom bearing retainers, around the bearing bushings. They should be saturated with oil.

-David

I do not recall seeing any round pads in there....I will have to double check when I get home. Leaving work in 10 minutes. Thanks!

The inside of the top and bottom bearing retainers are empty. No round pads. :cry:

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Thu 19, 2012 3:02 am

They probably rotted away. Don't worry about them -- they aren't strictly necessary. The bearings are made of oil-retaining material and will hold plenty of oil.

But the next phono motor you do, check for them and clean them out.

-David

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Thu 19, 2012 3:07 am

Great! Thanks for all of your help! You have been awwwwesome!

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Thu 19, 2012 11:34 pm

Would it have helped me any if I had mentioned that it is a GI Motor? :roll:

Sometimes I wonnnnderrrr.....

MaryAntoinette · **Posted:** Apr Mon 23, 2012 6:19 pm

I was getting a little frustrated so I took a few days off. All this rust is driving me crazy! oh, and from my above post...do I oil a GI motor differently than an Alliance?

Thaaanks.

dberman51 · **Posted:** Apr Mon 23, 2012 10:57 pm

Both of my RP-190s have the same type of motor (different voltage) so I am not sure of the difference. I believe you oil them the same way. I recall people saying that the Alliance motors are easier to clean because the bearing retainers are open, or something like that.

-David

UPDATE: 04-16-12...7-Ey-1EF first restore.

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