Hey folks. The names Justin and I am extremely new to record players! Reason for coming here is to learn about my recent acquisition and my love of music. All music!!

Anyhow, I was cleaning out my grandmother's house, rest her soul, and saved an old Zenith record player from being trashed. I plugged it in and it worked! A Zenith SL2420-3 to be exact. Speakers worked, tubes glowed, and some old Hank Williams started flowing from the console!! I immediately took it home and took the back off to Clean the inside. Clean as a whistle!! The chassis model is I believe to be 3L04.

I'm am curious about this player. I know it's not worth much, if anything. I just wanna learn more about parts, info of the model, years, and maybe some electronic repair men to freshen the power section up!

Thanks folks!!

I think it is a '64 model, based on the "L" in the chassis number. It is one of Zenith's lower end units and I think it was one of the last "all-tube" Zenith's. The next model year, they made a similar version with a tube tuner and a solid state amp.

I've worked on a few like what you have and the main problem they have is bad electrolytic capacitors in the power supply. I think the rest of the capacitors are of the ceramic disc type and should be OK. If there are any of the older tubular paper capacitors in there, I'd advise replacing them. I'd also replace the electrolytic filter capacitors in the power supply, even if they are good. Old capacitors have a habit of shorting out without warning and this can burn up other parts. Better to spend a few dollars on capacitors now than many dollars on some hard to find part later on.

Also, this set does not use a power transformer and will have one side of the AC line connected to the chassis. Depending on the position of the AC plug, there is a 50/50 chance that the hot side of the AC line will be going to the chassis and you could be killed if you touch the chassis or an exposed control shaft while another part of your body is in contact with something with a return path to ground.

Even though it's a low end model, it's still not a bad stereo and it will sound decent once it's fixed up.

Cool deal. Maybe I need to just send the power unit to you to replace them!! I am only about 3 hours from you lol. I reside in Cleveland, MS.

But anyhow, where could I find these caps and such on the internet. And I am used to caps and such from working on my tube amps, but can I short the plug connection to drain them, or just use a resistor to drain them. I am a noob when it comes too radio chassis.

www.mouser.com, www.justradios.com, and www.tubesandmore.com are the most popular places to get capacitors. Just take note that the electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive. If you wire one in backwards, it can violently blow up and cause other circuit damage. The record changer was made by Voice of Music (VM) and uses the Zenith "micro-touch 2G" tonearm; which, was one of the better ceramic cartridge equipped record changers of the day. You can get parts for the record changer from www.thevoiceofmusic.com.

Thank you for your time and info!! I am going to pull out the power section and check the cap specs of the unit. The reason I wanna change them is that I get a low end hum from the player even with the volume all the way down. PLus to make sure its reliable. I will get some new tubes here soon and replace them. Is there any reliable sites that may have a schematic for the unit??

The tubes are the least of your worry!
Your electrolytic can is going bad, and, that's why the low level hum.
Other paper caps will need replacing, as well.
You don't need to discharge anything. Since it was playing, when you shut it off, and, un-plugged it, any left over voltage was drained.
I agree the electrolytics are sensitive, and, wiring them in backwards would be a disastor...
I see the filaments of the tubes are in series, no power transformer.
I agree one side of line is directrly on the chassis. Danger, Will Robinson!
Handle with extrme caution at ALL times!
One side of the line will also be on the changer.
Bill Cahill

Thanks Bill. I am going to pull the chassis tonight and get the specs on all the caps and so forth, and get the soldering gun ready. This is my first record player and it has really got me excited, because there is nothing like the sound of vinyl. I really like it.

Welcome to the forum! I am a newbie myself and this is definitely the place to be...everyone here is very knowledgable! Take things slow, don't get frustrated (ahem, I should take my own advice..lol), and ask questions...pics always help, too. Good luck on your project!

Bill and RadioTVNut, is it the case that every transformerless amp has one side of the AC line is connected to the chassis? Would installing a polarized plug prevent the danger? Are there are also chassis grounds on amps with transformers?

Every power transformer-less device from that era that I've seen either had one side of the AC line connected to the chassis or it had a capacitor connected between circuit ground and chassis. Both methods can be dangerous; but, I prefer having a capacitor between the chassis and circuit ground. Zenith was bad about connecting one side of the line directly to the chassis. A polarized plug will help, as long as the outlet that it's being plugged into is wired correctly. The easiest way to determine that is to get one of those little outlet testers with various LED's on it that indicate exactly what fault exist.

makes wonder why more people hadnt died from electrocution in those days. when I was a kid everything shocked the crap out of you in my Dads house. especially the phonograph while standing on concrete floor barefoot trying to play kids 45s. you could here it in the speaker while touching the metal tonearm.. errrrrrntt... what were they thinking

It is amazing what they got away with. That stuff would never pass UL certification today.

-David

Roflmao....I got zapped as a kid plugging in the christmas tree lights in the early 80's....I will never forget that feeling!

Yes. Be very careful handling. Looks like yours has one side of the line on chassis.
Remember, the electrolytic caps are polarity sensitive. Also, don't get anything than less the rated voltage.
A hint on paper caps, which you will also need to replace.
Alot of mannufacturesrs, including Zenith, tenedet to use lower voltage rating caps because these machines were never meant to last past a certain life. I'd reccommend using 630 volt caps all the way through.
On the electrolytics, if originals are rated at 150 wv DC, 160 wv DC is fine.
Bill Cahill
Sorry I couldn't answer earlier. My computer was being serviced yesterday.