I've seen several posts where folks are using a 'burnishing tool' to clean switches, etc on tube testers. Can someone point me to one of these please? Seems like a good idea not to use residue leaving cleaners on those contacts. Thanks for the help.

I have one, a small burnishing tool in a red plastic pouch. It is labeled GC 9337. I suppose any place that carries the GC chemicals and such would maybe have it. I would think that a very fine abrasive could work as well but the tool is rigid whereas a strip of very fine abrasive paper is harder to work with. 1000 grit, maybe? Maybe a higher number?

HERE YOU GO You might also look at GC ELECTRONICS WEB PAGE, they have been manufacturing electronics tools for several decades now and make excelent quality merchandise.

Buy 2 or 3 of them because 1, they don't last forever, and 2, they aren't very big and get lost easily.

I would be a bit leary about using anything abrasive on switch contacts. Burnishing tools were made for relays.

Dave

Might try the cardboard stick part of a Q-tip, dipped in isopropanol, as a burnishing tool for fine contacts.

A crisp, new (like from an ATM machine) U.S. dollar bill works in some situations because it has just enough abrasiveness and durability to hold up for one set of cleanings. Regular papers do not work because they are not abrasive enough and they fall apart quickly, especially when they get soaked with cleaner solvent.

Jonard makes all kinds of burnishing tools. I use the finest and thinnest on small contacts. Just a few swipes should clean the surfaces without removing the plating. The coarse tools are good for burned switches, power relays, and ignition points only! http://www.jonard.com/jonard-ecommerce/ ... BURNISHERS
Specialized carries them http://www.specialized.net/Specialized/ ... -6831.aspx The pen burnishers are pricey but they last for years or until you lose it!

This was (still is) the favored method of contact cleaning in old electromechanical jukeboxes and pinball machines- it works better than what you might think, and doesn't cause excessive wear to the contacts.

-Mark-

What also works pretty good is a strip cut from a crisp business card, especially those that have a cloth like finish. Dip it in contact cleaner and rub it between the contacts. I used to finish car ignition points (dry, of course) that way after filing them.

But don't dare to use a burnishing tool on gold-plated contacts such as those used in Tektronix scopes. One swipe and there's no gold left and the contact is ruined.

Good contact /de-oxidizing cleaners do not leave improper residues. A slight conductive film is all that's need to further inhibit the return of oxidization. Burnishing tools can worsen the unwanted effects of poor electrical contact by creating micro pits/grooves that foster conditions for poor electrical transfer. Having worked in the vending industry with both vending machines and arcade items employing heavy use of electromechanical contacts, etc., I was very judicous in using any abrasive type of contact burnishing tool. I also never used the dollar bill method either, since often I had to service machines in the slums, "projects", and inner-city war zones... a person gets mugged real fast when pulling out a dollar or a wallet... it was job enough just keeping track of my tools and spraying the roaches out before servicing a unit!

The standard practive I have read about from the seasoned jukebox experts (and used in a pinch) from on Jukebox technical list: http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list

Use a non-colored white business card. It can be moistened with a little Caig DeOxit if you wish. The business card stock is abrasive enough to clean without damage.

I have used toothpicks, both round and flat. Toothpaste also on rotary switches using toothbrush and then rinsing, followed by iso alcohol soaking.

Try these;

http://www.radioparts.com.au/ProdView.a ... odDesc=MSC

Available on eBay Australia as well.

When I worked as an electronics technician for the PMG, the Oz equivalent of Ma Bell in the early 1970s, microscrub was the only contact cleaner used to clean the many millions of relay, uniselector and other contacts throughout the organisation.

One strip is reusable hundreds of times and is gentle on contacts. Strips are double sided and when the end tip has eventually lost its effectiveness after much use, you just snip that section off and you have a new unused section.

Some additional info here from the US International Trade Commission;

http://www.faqs.org/rulings/rulings1992HQ0950122.html

Ron.

1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper is readily available these days. I guess you could use a strip cut from one of those sheets. Probably as fine as any burnishing tool. I prefer to stay away from anything abrasive.

That's silly! All you do is cut the dollar bill into 1/4-inch-wide strips and put them in a small envelope. Then there's no problem with getting mugged. By the way, did you know that research has found that the higher denomination the bill, the better it is at cleaning, remaining durable, etc.? So get out your scissors and a C-note and get ready for a great burnishing party!




Surprisingly, if you use a floride toothpaste, you'll have reduced contact pitting on relays and such.

It is made from the same stock but some does undergo different processes such as watermark, security thread, the new window thread ($100.00), and the like. However, more valuable notes simply last longer because they tend to be handled (and spent!) less. I was at a customer's facility and they were talking statistics. One dollar bills tend to be rather filthy. You don't want to know where they've been!
I design sensors for authenticating banknotes. It can be a reasonable day job.

Look on ebay for Key Contact Cleaner or check at www.aa4f.com Find the cloth and the metal contact burnisher. I can be contacted at AA4F.

I've posted this before, but a camera repair trick for a very mild abrasive is to use a soft lead pencil directly or pencilled heavily on thin paper strips. The graphite can safely remove fine oxidation and in some case used as a lubricant. With contacts, follow with iso alcohol to remove the graphite and maybe cramolin if it's still around or deoxit using the capillary action of a fine pair of needlenose tweezers as a point oiler.

Jonard burnishers both flat and rod types otherwise.

Cramolin Red was replaced with Caig DeOxit D5 which is also slightly red in color.