Hello Everyone.

I am restoring a 1955 Zenith, and after cleaning the anode wire I found hairline cracks in it. My question is. Can I use a modern anode wire with the midern style boot and clip? Or do I need to reuse the original clip?

Does the modern style fit?

If I understand correctly, the functions are:
1. good electrical connection
2. insulation to keep the HV from arcing/leaking to unintended places (eg the boot needs to fit snugly to the outer surface of the CRT)

Ok, so if I can get the modern anode wire to clip into the old tube, as long as it make a good conection I should be OK?
My other question is that once I make the connection on the other end to the transformer, can I use regular shrink tubing to insulate the raw solder joint, or do I need a high voltage tubing. If I need high voltage where do I find it. All teh high voltage tubing I see online is rated to 600v. Dont I need something in the 5 to 10kv range?

Sorry for all the newbie questions, I just want to make sure I do this right.

Thanks
SkipC


Its cleaning up Nicely

disclosure: the last time I worked on a TV was ~ 55 years ago.

I think the "boot" needs to fit snugly to the outer glass surface of the CRT when the plug is connected. I do not know anything about the wire used---if it were me, I'd replace the complete assembly--all the way back to the flyback trans / HV rectifier.

How is it insulated at the flyback now? If the factory didn't do anything special, I wouldn't worry about it. If something is needed to wrap over it, I'd be tempted to try some plastic tubing.

Bad Idea. Tape will not do well...
The entire wire is needed. I would stay with original clip, however. May we see the new clip? I want to see how it is shaped at both the electrical end, and, the insulator.
Just taping, or, tacking new wires on is a bad idea.
Needs to be replaced to the rectifier socket, re soldered on. Must be neat, and, without sharp points, as that will arc.
Bill Cahill

What if I was to just coat the entire wire in corona dope, and shrink tube the entire wire, then resolder the original clip back on, and cover the raw solder joint in corona dope, and shrink tube the end.

If you are friendly with a tv shop, surely they'll let you have the HV wire of a junker tv chassis. The boot and clip too, already fastened to the wire.

I already have an HV wire with the clip and the boot, but it will not fit correctly in the tube. So I am stuck at the very least using the original clip. I was just figuring that, if i didnt have to disturb anything on or around the flyback the better off I would be. I know how hard it is to find vintage flybacks, and I am looking now for a spare for my set just in case.

Surplus Sales of Nebraska sells replacement connectors (scroll down), but I don't know if that clip style will fit your CRT.

http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html

I don't have a clear idea how bad your existing cable is. If it only has a few hairline cracks and you have no evidence they caused any arcing in the first place, I'd coat the cracks with corona dope for now and see how it works. Not beautiful, but you can proceed with the rest of your restoration and then search for the perfect replacement at your leisure. Or possibly you'll discover that you don't need a replacement.

Just my $0.02.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

The wire going to the CRT does not connect to the flyback itself. It connects to the base of the high voltage rectifier (1B3 or similar).
You should be able to replace the wire end to end without touching the flyback. But you would have to be careful not to bump it while
working on the wire.

There is nothing special about the HV wire or its connection. In fact, a bare wire would work if it never came near anything else (look at the high voltage power lines). At high voltages any sharp points can cause the ionization of the surrounding air, so any soldering should leave only rounded, smooth connections. Corona, whose hiss can be heard and seen in the dark, can usually be cured with the application of corona dope (about $10 for a small bottle).

As far as your wire goes, anything that looks like it has a thick enough insulation will probably be OK. Modern tvs (particularly color) have much higher voltages (20-25 KV) compared to the early bw tv's (8-14 KV). So, anything off a newer tv should be OK. The rubber connector to the crt is not too important. Many sets only used a clip with no cover.

Incidentally, the danger from the HV circuit is not electrocution. The current level is too low for that. The main injuries stem from the reaction the shock causes, usually injured hands, etc. The top of the 1B3 has RF energy which can cause a burn, an addition to the shock. These shock are something many of us have experienced, and do not need to experience again.
=======
Ron

I can't beleive I just found 2 flybacks for this set from Moyer Electronics. I bought both of them so I now have a spare. Plus I am pretty sure that the one that is in there is ok, although it has a few big cracks in the wax tire. I will seal it with rtv silicone and put it away as a 3rd spare.
Does anyone have any advice when it comes to replacing the flyback, as I have never replaced one before.


Thanks
I think I am going to love this hobby!!!

Skip C

I have plenty of NOS anode leads with connectors, color and B&W. If you are stuck, send a PM.

Don