Does it need recapping because its old or because it hasnt been used?
I dont use it for say Ive turned it on here and there for a few minutes but not for long periods of time. Does it need recapping because its old or because it hasnt been used?
Both, but primarily because it's old. All electronic components degenerate over time, some faster than others. Electrolytic caps (the kind used in power supply filters), wax paper caps and some of their equivalents such as early molded plastic caps (all primarily used for coupling and bypass throughout the circuit), are among the worst offenders. These should all be "shotgunned" as the first step in a restoration process, for it's a cinch that if they aren't already bad, they soon will be. Moisture is the key culprit in the decay of many parts, caps especially. As a rule, the more humid the environment, the shorter their life.
On the other hand, and perhaps paradoxically, long periods of idleness accelerate the decay of some parts. I call it "shelf rot." The more humid the conditions, the more impact "shelf rot" has. The older generation of electrolytic caps were perhaps the most notorious for going bad "on the shelf." As a rule, they tend to last longer with consistent use.
Again, please don't run this gear before it's overhauled, recapped and verified. With suspect and likely bad filter caps, you're risking very expensive power transformers, at the very least. Bad coupling caps in the amplifier output stages will put the output tubes and output transformer (more very expensive parts) at risk. By the same token, bad caps elsewhere in the circuit can cause the destruction of other parts. And caps aren't the only things to be verified.
Every transformer and choke should be tested and verified. Transformer and choke windings sometimes open and sometimes short out. Resistors should be checked, for they may open or, in the case of the older carbon composition resistors, they may drift off value. The older they are, the more likely this will happen.
As for caps in general, three things can go wrong. They can open, they can go "lossy" or "leaky" due to dielectric degeneration, or they can simply short out. Disc ceramic caps usually cause few problems (older tubular ceramics, which look somewhat like resistors, may be another matter).
There shouldn't be any mica caps (the older ones look like dominoes) present anywhere, except perhaps in your Fisher tuner (and based on my experience with Fisher gear, I'd expect to find ceramic caps there, instead of micas).
Time was when we used to consider mica caps "immortal," but we know better now, so any domino mica caps should also be checked (you likely won't have to worry about any dipped silver mica caps that may turn up).
And speaking of your Fisher tuner, its IF transformers may be among a large number of transformers subject to "silver mica disease."
I hope this helps. It is pointless (and unfair) to attempt to minimize the job you have in front of you. On the other hand, if you want an ideal clinic to learn tube electronics restoration from top to bottom, you certainly have it, but once again, you'll need a good and experienced hand to guide you along and explain things along the way (for you'll find PLENTY of questions).
Again good luck, and best regards--