Hi guys.
I have just got my hammarlund home.
Got it on my workbench and recapt.
Pluged it in my variac and no smoke..
But... No sound. Where is the first place
to start check. Im all out of ideas.

Thanks. John

Do the tubes light up? Do you have B+?

Hi John

A receiver that age should have electrolytic caps replaced but here is somewhere to start.

Does the 0C3 glow? It should glow if there is B+ voltage.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByMode ... 008997.pdf

Do you hear anything? Speaker connected and phones contacts bypassed?

Does pin #3 on the 6V6 have voltage, around 250? Even though schematic is hard to read rest of the Rider information gives expected voltages etc.

The S-meter is not working to.

I have replaced the elekrolytiks can.
The OC3 is glowing. I will read the voltages when i get home.

Thanks for the reply.

John

Pin 3 on 6V6 does have aboute 275 volts.
If i listen in the speaker there is a faint hum. But i have changed all the caps that i can find.
I did not plug it in before i started the recap so i dont know if the problem was in the radio before i recapt it, or if i have mest it up.

I live in Norway and this was not cheap to ship here, so i hope i can get sound out of this baby.
I cant afford to ship another one over the "pond" (at least not yet)

Thanks
John

The voltages seems to check out ok. I have gone over all my solder joints.
I can hear the hum good when i use headphones.
But no audio or S-meter reading. So... Can the fault be conected?
I have cleaned the switches but no differense.
It is just sitting there and frustrates me.
All the tubes ligths up btw.

Hi John

Best to work back from the audio stages. Do you hear loud hum touching center terminal on the volume control?

Do screens and plates have positive voltage on 6SS7 tubes, pin #6 and #8? How about 6K8, pin #3, #4 and #6?

Wouldn't expect a S meter to do much until rest of the receiver operates.

Pin 6# on the 6SS7 Tubes varies from 115 to 230v ?
pin 8# - 2.410v ?? 2.900v 240V Negativ voltage?

The 6K8 Pin3# - 2.400v pin4# 106v pin6# 114v

No lound hum..


Thanks John

Hi John

Use a VOM if you have one. A digital meter may be reading oscillation? Pin #8 is plate on 6SS7. It should be positive around 200 volts on each tube. Same with pin #3 on 6K8, should be around 200 volts. Rider lists voltage on page 15-10.

Pin #2 and #5 should be positive on 6SN7. If not the audio amp & S meter won't work. According to Rider pin #5 will only be around 6 volts but pin #2 over 100 volts.

Hi Norm.

Well.. 2 of the 6SS7 had over 200v on pin#8. When i jump the third one with aligator clips then i got some noise in the speaker. But only in BFO?
Need to trace the wire from the third tobe and find out why and where the voltages disapear.

On 6SN7 i just found aboute 8v on pin#5 No voltage on pin 2# Hmmm

But i got the first sign of life in this old thing.

Thanks for all the help. Im getting there.

Thanks John.

Probably time to check voltages on both sides of R45 and its value. If there is no appreciable voltage on both sides of R45 then the wiring back to C55 needs to be checked. There has to be voltage at C55 otherwise your 0C3 would not light up.

Don't be surprised if the roles of the two sides of the 6SN7 are swapped from what you read on the schematic.

The plate of one of the 6SN7s will have no voltage on it unless you are in the AVC position.

Curtis Eickerman

Hi Curtis. and thanks for your reply.
I found out that my send-rec switch is broken. and the curent din not get past the switch
i jumped the switch and the voltages came to 6SN7 and i can hear static in the speaker.
So i guess i need a new switch. Or can i jump it?

R45 Ohms out to 23K

John

You can jump it for now and fix it later if you like. In fact you should be able to jump it by putting a jumper in the relay connection on the back panel.

Weird part is that the schematic doesn't show the 6SN7 voltage being connected after the switch anyway. It makes sense for it to be wired after the switch for better muting. I just don't remember which way mine was wired in that area because I didn't use that switch. Carl may remember.

If the switch is broken of course you lose voltage to the front end of the radio. Again the relay jumper will fix that too.

Curtis Eickerman

The radio is playing now.
But it still have a few problems.

Pin5# on 6SN7 do not have a voltage reading, it goes to the S-meter if i understand the schematic ok.
The meter just sits on max and thats is all it does.
It did work on first power up (after i jumped the relay connection) but not sinse.

Please be sure that pin 5 is really hooked to the S-meter resistors R38 and R39. At least one HQ-129X around here had pins 1,3,2 swapped with pins 4,5,6. Basically the 1st Audio and S-meter functions were swapped at the 6SN7 which makes no functional difference but can be confusing.

Note, the S-meter is only powered in the AVC position. If you are not getting any voltage and operation when in the AVC position, first check to make sure that voltage is coming from the AVC switch to Resistor R39 and R40. If there is nothing coming from the switch of course you have to make sure the voltage is going to the switch and that the switch is working.

If voltage is reaching R39 and R40 then you might need to check the values of R38, R39, R40 (all 470K) and R41 (24 K). If those are OK then you should check and clean R37 (the S-meter adjustment pot).

Curtis Eickerman

I found the problem.
It was a problem that i made myself whit a bad solder joint.
It was the joint that connect C39 Elecrolytic capasitor to the tube socket.

It is playing just fine now

And if someone knows aboute a new Send Rec switch than let me know. I need one.



AND thanks to all you brilliant folks in here.
I know have one of a wery few Hammarlund`s in Norway.
Strange since Hammarlund sound like a Scandinavian name.

I don't know if you have actually looked at the switch to see what the problem is just yet, but it is entirely possible that you might be able to repair it.

I suspect you may have just lost spring tension on a contact which, with a little caution, can be corrected and restore the switch to normal operation. There are Youtube videos and online directions on how to do this.

Alternatively, if a contact is totally broken off, it should not be too hard to find a SPST wafer switch that would fit.

You're right, Hammarlund does sound Scandinavian. It needs an umlaut over the "u"--> Hammarlünd

Curtis Eickerman

It is broken.. i can pull out the whole shaft.
But i realy don`t need it since i am only going to receive.
Thanks again.. I love it, its a great reveicer.
I have a new faceplate on the way so i think i can make a nice "listening device"
To bad it is going to be sunny 24-7 soon here over the artic cirkle. Not mutch to receive then.


Now on to the next one.

And, Thanks again.

John

Winter will return all too soon.

Here's a post for parts for sale;
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=192906
He may have what you need.
Phil