I am intrigued with Muntz and Predicta.
But, I've heard that Predicta's are problematic.

The Muntz, to see its minimalist circuitry, the Predicta because they look cool.

How about mid 1950's Philco, Motorola or Magnavox?

Carl

Parts removed from my GE 805:


One of the newer capacitors I destroyed by hooking it up backwards.
There was only one Selenium Rectifier, the other Selenium was replaced by the previous owner with a rectifier which was burned and broken. Some of the tubes were just weak.

Lot of Electrolytics in this TV.

Here is the chassis after recapping:


And Playing:

The bottom right knob may not the correct as I've seen some GE 805's where the inner part of the knob matches the one on the bottom left. What I have is three sets of knobs that are all alike but I think it looks just fine anyway.

Carl

Well done Carl,
I followed this thread with much interest. Thanks to the ad you posted about parts for your and knobs for mine, I was contected by a member offering me the knobs I need. When they arrive, I'll post a pic of my set with complete knobs.

Doug

Good show ... we are both graduates of the GE 805 school!!
What a journey.
Like to see your GE 805.

I found some "feet" for my GE 805 - not original but better.
Home Depot has some hard plastic round discs that worked perfectly,

Carl

cap values are one of the main reasons I use my cap tester. I always check whats going in to what came out, this includes checking restuffed caps. Really helps with 10x errors. Just test the old cap value and compare to the new one going in, and do a quick leak test on new stuff going in as well. I have had a few very leaky brand new yellow tube caps (the china junk).

I like that advice - I think I will start doing that too.
I have a "Made in China" cheap Capacitor meter that is pretty accurate and I might as well put it to good use.

Carl

that will be good for the value confirmation, but leakage is the problem I had on the new caps. For that I like the old school cap testers that put a rated voltage on them. I have also used a VTVM and 45v (5 9volts) battery to check for leakage in micas and other small value caps. The high impedance of the VTVM will show up leakage that my eye tube tester does not. I think I tried it it with a autorange DMM but IIRC I did not like the results, hard to read as the scale would go nutz. the VTVM started at 100v connect the cap out of circuit with the battery in series and read the voltage. There would be an inital flow of current as the cap charged up, and then the voltage would drop. I would reduce the range accordingly as it charged up. IIRC new caps would read under 50millvolts while older caps would read upwards of 2-3v.

I may be wrong about the voltage readings, but the difference between an old cap and new was clear, like 5x the leakage.

Anyway it was an interesting experiment, but I still use my eye tube tester for daily work.