I recently bought a 45-j-2 to connect to my Fisher 500C to play some of my old 45's. I've been reading these forums in detail for tips and tricks to restoring this piece but I still have a couple of questions.

First, I've read PhonoJack's description of placing a neoprene washer on the cam wheel. I would really like to give this a shot because it seems like a very good solution. Only problem is, I can't seem to locate the type of washer he describes. Does anyone have a picture of such a mod or have a part number for the washer?

Second, I'm considering wiring the unit for stereo (yeah I know it won't be great) but I can't seem to figure out how to wire the stereo cartridge through the mono mute switch. Anyone have any pointers?

Thanks for the help.

I tried this recently too and it works well. Though finding the correct O-ring was a stinker. None of the guys that did this could remember what size to use..LOL I figured out what works the best is a #100 O-ring which is a 2" OD by 1 3/4 ID and is 1/8 inch thick. I had to hit 4 hardware stores before I finally found them in this size. I only found it at a small, old school local hardware store, Lowes and Home Depot don't carry anything near this size so don't waste your time there. Hit a small, mom and pop hardware store.

I had been rebuilding my cycle cams using automotive seals I get from my restoration work. This rubber is identical to the original early wheel rubber or what Bosco sells but only cost me about 50 cents a cam. I decided to try the O ring trick because of the lighter weight factor, the stuff I have been using is like the early style cams with thick and heavy rubber. I would have never imagined balancing an O ring on the edge of a cam would work well but surprisingly it does work and is several grams lighter. I am still a bit weary about the longevity so I am going to try it on a couple of my personal players before I install them on stuff I sell or repair for folks. I still think the rebuilt cycle cams from Gary at VM are the best quality out there but this O ring trick could be a good, cost savings alternative for folks.

BTW I have to say I tried both the gel and liquid super glue and preferred the liquid myself.

You can't wire a stereo cartridge through the muting switch, but you can just bypass it. It's not that critical -- some of the 45 players, including the popular 6-EY-3 series, didn't use it.

-David

Thanks for the reply guys.

When I picture the kind of O-ring, I see a squared edge, not a round edge. Am I correct?

Also, I got it now with the stereo wiring, bypass the mute switch all together. Thanks.

Where is the great "how to" posted on this subject recently by Doug VanCleave? It had detailed instructions and photos. I cannot find it. Maybe he can re-post it in this thread. I believe he used a #99 o-ring (round edge).

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/produc ... pired=True
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/51-28 ... 56221.aspx

pabilo21

Mr. Doug VanCleave sent me this when I was doing mine. I don't think he would mind me posting this for you.

Doug was not sure of the O ring number he just recalls it was 1 3/4 someplace so I bought one with a 1 3/4 OD (which I THINK was a #98) and it was far too small, no way it would work. I then tried the next up a #99 which was a 1 7/8 OD and 1 5/8 ID and it almost fit but would not stay on the cam to glue it. That was the biggest size ACE Hardware had so the search began. I could not find a #100 and looked all over, I eventually found em at a mom and pop place and they were 2" OD and 1 3/4 ID and fit absolutely perfect! If you don't believe me go ahead and try the #99...no sweat off my back but remember when it won't fit, I told ya so.







Nice screwdriver BTW...!

Bastardbus is correct......the #99 is tight, though you can make it work. I found several places to buy #100 size rings:

http://www.sears.com/danco-100-o-ring-b ... 2311853603
http://www.amazon.com/Danco-100-O-Ring- ... B000KKRX3C
http://www.acefactorystore.com/proddeta ... od=4203675

pabilo21

I need to make one correction. The cam should be traced on the board before the old rubber is stripped off so the location of the idle divot in the rubber is properly documented.

Todd figured out what I meant but he's good at that sort of thing.

I tried a #99 (I actually still have them here) and with some wrestling I could get it stretched over the cam but the moment you let go of it to reach for the glue, the #99 would pop off the edge. One would almost have to be born with 3 hands to get the #99 glued on. Since this trick is balancing a rounded O ring on the thin edge of steel you don't want it so tight that it needs to be overly stretched as then the O ring is always going to be fighting the glue to come off. A #100 will fit tight enough over the cam's edge that is firmly in place but not so stretched out that it is fighting to come off. You can actually walk away or pick up the cam with the #100 in place without any glue at all.

BTW the Danco brand is the one I used.

Now, that's what I'm talkin' about! Thanks guys for all the input.

Now, off to find a couple of #100 or #99 o-rings. Plenty of places to look in my area. Just need to find the time to do it.

Well done, gents. I've been building my own neoprene washer cycling cams for years. This technique works flawlessly, the neoprene stays softer much longer, neoprene has a much longer life that the rubber and it engages nicely. My original instructions from many months ago were deleted and then Doug's more recent instructions were deleted by a moderator. I don't know why.

I still drill 12-13 holes in the cam to lighten it. Make sure you use the 'gel' not liquid form of super glue; the gel is easier to work with and it creates a smooth meniscus (reaction between the metal and neoprene) that rigidly holds the washer in place. The groove that aligns perpendicular to the knurled roller doesn't have to be ground smoothly; I cut each edge sharply to the metal surface.

Good luck and save money too. Many folks here know that I've been a long time supporter of Gary, thevoiceofmusic.com well before most but this technique saves you decent money and possibly time. Some are definitely better off buying Gary's solution and paying for his well-earned, justified price.

Jack

PhonoJack...the man who started the craze, nice to see you back around here. So Jack, you just cut the notch straight to the steel, you don't use a dremel or anything like that?

Didn't you have a trick for the idler wheel as well?



I have two #99s I am not using. If you or anyone else wants to try one out, I can stick it in an envelope and mail it to ya for free, no charge as I won't be using them. They are both brand new, in fact one is still sealed in the plastic.

Todd

Always liked #99.

That's Agent 99, now 78 years old. Can you believe that?

Here's a photo of two types of cycling cams that I rebuild (neoprene washer #99) (to replace RCA Victor's OEM part number 85) used in RCA and compatible RP-190 record changers. I have been using this technique for many years, it's reliable and only a fraction of the cost of a replacement cam.

I have experimented with lightening the weight of the cam by drilling the holes you see. I believe this enables a gentler, more sensitve trip causing less (horzontal force) stress on the modern 'stereo compliant' ceramic cartridge which replaces the original more rugged mono cartridge or sometimes later ceramic cartridges. Incidentally, I believe this gentler tripping is particularly useful if you are experimenting with magnetic cartridges with RP-190s.



Have fun,

Jack Whelan

Correct, I use an X-ACTO knife.

Jack

Indeed!

I'm all for keeping Gary happy in his business, and not stuggling to make a buck.
I don't want him to go around eating RAMEN NOODLES and starving because of cheapskates.

I've ALWAYS used Bosco's tires and they work extremely well, and only cost $8 each (including shipping.) I've never tried one of Gary's cam wheels, but have bought many many idlers from him over the years. BTW, his prices are the cheapest you'll find anywhere, and his service is outstanding.

Did you guys know that Gary buys his idlers from Ed Crockett in Mississippi? I don't know how he does it, but he sells his rebuilt idlers and cam wheels cheaper than Ed sells them himself.

It's called Quantity Discount.

One of our auto parts stores here sells a thermostat gasket that is square cut and has a trail cut out inside to fit over the thin metal phono cam .

I'll start off by saying thanks to all for the forum, the help and suggestions. I now have a mechanically flawless player.

I do have a new question though. I purchased and installed a P228 cartridge from VOM. I then connected the player to my Fisher 500C to the input designated for ceramic cartridges. I popped on a record but frankly, I hate the sound . It's very "tin can sounding," very bright and no amount of tweeking of the Fisher will compensate.

Is this me, is it the cartridge or I have done something wrong? I never had one of these previously, so I have no point of reference. Anybody have any suggestions?