I continue to have problems with filler not filling completely. How do you do it? I've been using walnut color water-based filler. For the cabinet I'm working on now, I added very dark water-based stain. Unfortunately, I didn't see that more filler is needed until after I sanded, then applied oil-based stain today. Perhaps I can get away with using an oil-based filler to add more. I could also build-up enough lacquer to allow me to sand it smooth.

I've tried the Famowood filler, butit dries too fast, and does not get along with stain already on the wood. The water-based fillers can be stained. That is good, as even the walnut is too light for any of teh walnut radios I've ever had.

I found a video (three parts) which looks helpful and shows him using some sort of oil-based filler which looks like a better approach. He stains first, then fills. Here is the link to his videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/SteveProFinisher

I use an oil based filler. I apply with a throw-away paintbrush, against the grain. Wait until the filler turns hazy, then wipe off with burlap. I do a side at a time -- usually it's drying before I finish painting it on! I often fill twice, usually the surface is so smooth when I'm done you'd think the radio already had a coat of lacquer on it. Any staining is done just before the first coat of lacquer goes on.

Peter

In my experience, the grain fillers never completely fill the grain. A couple of coats of lacquer, then sand with 320 or so, and the lacquer fills the balance for a perfectly smooth finish. Very careful sanding as it is easy to cut through and into the stain below.

I do mine like Peter does. Burlap works great. I buy about three yards at a time and cut it up into 1 foot squares. Take a used one to start on a side then toss it and finish up with a new one. I use Ben Moore no. 238 oil based filler, it seems to fill nicely.

Ditto......when I make my final, light, wipes with the grain with a clean cotton rag, I use very little pressure. Every now and then, at a very porous area, I'll drag out a trail of oil/filler. I then go over that trail very lightly to remove it. Some videos that I've watched, over simplify the process, IMO.

I tried Behlen brown walnut filler today and wish I had found it years ago! It is a different material than the other types I've tried, and easy to wrok with to get a nice grain filling job.

Did you thin that Behlen product? It's the Pore-o-Pac stuff, correct?

My last can of Bartley's grain filler is almost gone -- they went out of business several years ago. I'll have to start using something new, and the Behlen stuff was on my list of products to try out.

Peter

Peter, yes, it is the Pore-O-Pac. I used filler and the solvent at the top of the can, so yes, it has to be thinned. I bought it from these people:
http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.c ... glazes.htm

I saw a video on Youtube in which the demonstrating grain filling used naptha as a solvent.

I use Constantine's so I can't compare to other brands.
As soon as it starts hazing over I begin removing the excess with an old credit card at the same time sort of pushing it into the pores. If you've got good lighting you can see any areas that didn't fill well enough on the initial application.

I think the lighting is a very good point. I prefer to work outdoors in the shade, but for filler, now realize that I need to be in full sun.

If you want to get lazy, a vacuum system (bag, pump and parts) will outdo any filling job done without it. One the initial filling has been done this way, it's smooth sailing there on out.

Vacuum system? How would that work?

You're pushing filler into near-microscopic cavities, which always have air in them unless something like the filler tries to take its place. Under vacuum, with a thick coat of filler over the radio, the filler would be sucked into the pores.

Vacuum drawing also greatly helps veneer application, as it sucks all the air out, leaving absolutely no bubbles.

This was discussed on here before...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Cb8K35fExE