I have retaken every tube out, one at a time, and resprayed deoxit in all the tube sockets and in the tuner. Still no improvement. I did find something odd. Our cable comes in thru Ch 3. I went around the dial on the tuner to make sure the deoxit was working in and also saw my cable coming in, faintly, on Ch 8. It was snowy, BUT it was stable. With that in mind, could my problem be somewhere else rather than the sync circuts?
Doug

Ok, it's starting to get weird now. The other night I replaced the video diode M4. It is mounted on L14 which is surrounded by a grounded square shield. See pic. The shield is loose and wobbly. I was just doing some probing and accidentally shorted the pos end of the diode to the grounded shield. The horiz sync cleared up and became perfect. The vertical would never sync unless I turned the hieght way down. According to the schematic, this diode whicxh attached to the A2 part of L14 should not be grounded. Any ideas on why grounding it cleared up my horiz sync?
Doug

How do the caps look around the tuner?

You may be overloading the set with a strong cable signal, might try adding a resistor across the antenna terminals, or two resistors in series with the antenna connection to see if that makes a difference. These sets rely on having a certain signal level at the detector to work properly and the sync is often the first place a problem shows up. Also the local-distance switch should make some visible difference, even if only a minor one.

I looked in the cover of the tuner, and no capacitors looked amis. I did some checking on V3 !st Video IF. Everything seemed fine but R36 (470) ohms had drifted up to 570, so I replaced that. I think I'll replace that diode again. Maybe shorting it to ground ruined it. After that, I'll try Mr Detrols's suggestion about the resistors. The local/distance switch has no effect on it I think I've already checked the resistors in the circut around the switch, but I'll recheck it again.
Doug

If that's the video detector diode that you temporarily shorted to the shield, I don't think that I would worry about it too much. If you're still seeing video on the screen as before, it's probably all right.

Well I took the shield off around the diode and replaced it again, this time with a different type. I turned it on without the shield, and the horiz was pretty stable. I kept trying to get the vertical to lock, and I tried the local/distance switch again. This time it worked, and seemed to stabalize the vertical (for right now). I'm going to let it play for awhile tonight and keep checking on it.

As far as the diode, the parts lists says either a 1N60 or a 1N34 will work. I had a 1N34 but I think I've put in a 1N60 now.

Does this set have an AGC (Automatic Gain Control) adjustment? If so, try to adjust that. If the gain is too high, the last IF tube or the detector itself can overload and clip off the sync pulses. On some sets the local/distance switch is the AGC adjustment and on some sets the contrast control is the adjustment. On sets newer than about 1950, they started to have separate AGC controls.

Tom, this set does not have an AGC adjustment shich shock me. It's been playing for about 20 min now and is still stable. I need to tweek the height and lin controls though.

Did you check the sync separator? If you should have a spare handy, try swapping it.

Just FYI, liquid DeOxit is conductive, and if you power up a set with a socket still wet with DeOxit, "unexpected results" may occur. Don't ask how I know this

After experiencing an "unexpected result" a few years ago, now I let things dry out overnight after using DeOxit. If you have a compressed air source, you could blow things dry in less time.

Phil Nelson

I think Deoxit is only conductive at high voltage.

From the look of that 3rd IF can it has been roughly handled. You should look for intermittents around the 3rd and 4th IF stages, and also the sync separator. Try pushing gently on components with a non-conductive stick when you have a good picture.

Well it has passed 2 bench tests today and is playing ok right now. I'm not convinced that it's completely fixed yet. I'm sure if I go ahead and put it back in the cabinet, it will mess up again.

Excuse me if I appear to be a purist, but is there any more adjustment with the vertical height?

Yes, I do need to adjust the neight some more. Today I am going to put the CRT back in the cabinet then tweek the controls. With the CRT out, the yoke will not stay in place. It has a bracket that attaches to the chasis to lock it in place. That's why I'm getting the neck shadow. After getiing the CRT back in the cabinet, and the yoke centered properly, I can then get the resot of the controls set right.

Well it's still playing ok. I've got the height adjusted ( that frame in the pic is one where the top & bottom is cut off), but I think I need to work on the centering on the yoke. The top right is a little dark. The CRT is mounted back in the cabinet but the chasis is not completely secured yet.

After making any adjustments to the yoke or, if present, the focus magnet, it is a good idea to recheck the setting of the ion trap.

Will Do I've never touched the ion trap on this set. I have got the centering fixed on the yoke though, and I'll check the ion trap tomorrow before giving it one final bench test.
Doug

Well it's had 3 bench tests today and passed every one of them. It's back in the cabinet with the back on. I want to do some final cleaning then it's time to fine it a permanent place in the house. Thanks for all the help on getting it going.

Doug

Looks very nice. Congratulations!